Need Ro/di Help Please

[woowoodengy]

hey fellas i am completely lost with my ro/di setup, let me explain. i have two ro/di systems and am not sure which one to use, what filters i need, where to buy them, and which ones will fit. the first system is a Kent Maxxima that i purchased about 5-6 years ago and used it for about 2-3 years & has been out of commision for about 2-3 years. the second i just recently acquired, it came with my tank that i bought used of craigslist. it's a coralreef and has the di chamber separately it was last used about 2-3 months ago. i did a little research (very little) and have seen that the maxxima costs allot more than the coralreef.

so here are my questions.

1. which one should i use?

2. where to get the filters?

3. does the membrane need to be replaced? on either one?

4. if the maxxima is better and the membrain needs replacing can i just use the membrane and housing from the coralreef? if it's still good.

5. how do i tell what GPH it is rated at?

6. should i use the extra filters to creat more chambers. if yes how?

i know it's allot of questions but i am lost and dont want to do a week of research to figure this out. i want (need, must have) my tank up a.s.a.p. here are a couple of pictures of both filters.

 

[aquaman67]

I'd use the Kent and replace everything. Before you use it, I'd take out all the filters and membrane. Put some bleach in the first chamber and fill the system until water comes out the other end. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Turn the water back on and let it run for 30 minutes.

Install new filters.

First Stage.

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/Sediment-Cartridge-1-Micron-Depth-Filter-2pack-p31.html


Second Stage.

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/Chlorine-Guzzler-10-x-25-p8.html

Membrane.

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/Reverse-Osmosis-Membrane-75-GPD-p22.html

Get the restrictor too.

DI

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/Refillable-Cartridge-p85.html

I'd get the non-color changing resin.

Then I'd get this too.

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/DM1-inline-TDS-Meter-p103.html

When you first start it up, take the line loose where the water comes out of the carbon. Let it run for a while. Re-hook up the line and take the line loose that goes out of the RO membrane. Again, let it run for a while.

You don't want carbon dust in the RO membrane and you don' t want RO shipping fluid in the DI resin.

Now, reattach the line to the DI and let it run, but not so long.

Now you have a fully cleaned 75 gallon per day RO/DI....enjoy.

 

[herozero]

If you wanted to go real crazy you could use the canisters from the second unit and have a killer 6 stage dual RO pumping out over 150 GPD. It would go sediment, carbon, carbon, RO (piggy-backed), then dual DI. Might be helpful if you are setting up a 200+ system.

 

[woowoodengy]

thanks for the help. why the non color changing di??

 

[woowoodengy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15600414#post15600414 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by herozero
If you wanted to go real crazy you could use the canisters from the second unit and have a killer 6 stage dual RO pumping out over 150 GPD. It would go sediment, carbon, carbon, RO (piggy-backed), then dual DI. Might be helpful if you are setting up a 200+ system.

this is similar to what someone else recommended.
they told me to do 10 micron sediment,1 micron sedement ,carbon,then split it with a T and use two ro side by side, and then di, and second di

is all that worth it?? i guess the initial fill would be great but will it make a difference over time just for ATO and water changes??

 

[herozero]

i'd do the math. Also depends on what kind of storage equipment you have. I assume 260g display (or total system volume?), I'm sure it will evaporate at least a few gallons a day (depending on environment and lighting). 20% water change would be 42 gallons. For a system that uses a 75GPD membrane that's over 12 hours for a water change, 6 with 150GPD.

But mainly you will have less waste water with a dual RO. Hopefully either way you can plumb some waste water to a lawn or washer.

 

[woowoodengy]

yeah the display is 260 the sump and fuge will probably hold about 30 gal. i will probably go with duel ro. is it a good idea to do 2 carbon or 2 sediment or just leave it be with duel ro

 

[herozero]

Just make sure the micron sizes get smaller as you go (or stay the same size at least), otherwise it shouldn't matter. If you are in the greater Chicago area, I would assume you have chloramines in your water, I'd do 2 carbon.

 

[FoxyFace]

I just started the same venture

I just started the same venture

Do you have a TDS meter? If not, get one. I have well water where I live. The TDS from the tap was over 350ppm. After 4 stage R/O, TDS was in the teens. I added a single chamber DI unit, TDS is now 0.

 

[woowoodengy]

i have a tds meter but i am ordering an inline one to monitor in and out.

 

[FoxyFace]

In-line TDS

In-line TDS

Those in-line units give false readings. A fellow reefer who lives nearby talked me out of one. He has a pretty large in-home coral shop. He showed me how inaccurate they are. Just an opinion.

 

[aquaman67]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15600437#post15600437 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woowoodengy
thanks for the help. why the non color changing di??

It's cheaper and if you use a TDS meter (as you should) then you don't need color changing resin. Color changing resin is for people who change resin based on color, not TDS.

 

[woowoodengy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15604602#post15604602 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aquaman67
Color changing resin is for people who change resin based on color, not TDS.

that is just too funny. like i said i do have a TDS meter so i guess color changing does not matter for me. i am wondering is this overkill.

10 micron sediment
1 micron sediment
carbon #1
carbon #2
ro 1 & 2 piggy backed
di
di

 

[herozero]

i'm jealous!

 

[woowoodengy]

here is a quick pic of my tank. =) hope to have water in it soon and i need to order doors for the stand but they are very expensive. the stand is made out of cherry wood. 84X24X30

 

[herozero]

i see you just threw that in for good measure. thank you

 

[woowoodengy]

dont mention it. so what kind of sales are you in? and ur a mac fan we have some thing in common lol.

 

[Macimage]

I did something similar with combining two RO units. I used one 75 gpd RO membrane in the first three stage unit and did not use the RO part of the 2 stage unit.

I would use a Sediment filter, a Smaller Sediment Filter, a Matrikx Cto/CTO and a Chlor Plus Chloramine filter in the first four stages, then the RO membrane (the 2nd RO membrane is optional) and then the two DI cannisters. You can find all the filters here:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI-Filters-&-Systems-Reverse-Osmosis-Filters/c9_13/index.html

Joyce

 

[herozero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15607074#post15607074 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woowoodengy
dont mention it. so what kind of sales are you in? and ur a mac fan we have some thing in common lol.

Supply chain software, specifically warehouse management and inventory control. And I don't touch a windows box unless I have to update my ac3 firmware.

 

[woowoodengy]

ok i just got my RO/DI all hooked up and it works good. this is what i went with.

1. 5 micron sediment filter
2. 1 micron sediment filter
3. carbon
4. carbon
then i have it split and going to 2 RO membranes
5. & 6. two RO 75 GPD membranes running parallel
7. DI
8. DI

i also attached a duel in & out TDS meter. in is reading 128
out is 3 without the DI and 0 with both DI's

i did a time test and i am getting 106 GPD which i feel is good cause my water pressure is not so good.

thanks for the help guys. now I'm ready to fill my tank. I'm getting my salt in the next couple of days and hope to be salty by next weekend.