Need some suggestions please...

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Premium Member
I am in the process of putting what little LPS,Zoas, and one large Sebae into a nanocube, and will be be going all SPS in my 75g.....

As with previous discussions with Justin.....I hate the wall 'o' rock that is common with these rectangular boxes.......what I really would like is a 90g or larger cube, (love yours Karls), and love the versatile rock arrangements that you can get with the cube tanks......unfortunatly, I am not getting a cube, but want something different in the means of rock arrangement........here is where you come in, in your searches or admirations of other tanks I am sure that you have seen rock arrangements that you thought were cool......I would like you to forward those to this thread so it may help me break away from the fruitstand look......

About my tank

Basic 75g AGA tank
250 MHs
Barebottom....no sand
Will be buying more rock to replace Nanocube stuff.

What I want in a rockscape:

-Maximize real estate for MORE SPS......
-Does not inhibit flow or aid detritus buildup
-I would like to maximize the area under the lights as high light areas as to color up "brownies"


Any ideas or suggestions.....running a blank on this and would like to get a jumpstart in the idea deptartment....thanks.....

Currently I am thinking of some LARGE pieces forming three- four valleys that narrow at the back to touch in a "V" pattern.....this would form islands and valleys at the same time......?

Oh BTW, to fund my LR purchase, I will probably be cutting some frags off........keep a look out for that.
Just as a sample list of what I am thinking:

green digi, mine is about the size of two fists now.(multiple lengths)
green/yellow milli, depending on how you look at it.
purple tipped acro
orange/green based digi
orange cap
purple tipped valida
and a few others I imagine.......


Thanks.....Doug
 
Doug - Hopefully, these images might help give you some ideas. These are snapshots from one of Paletta's old books. Personally, I favor the Peaks and Channels formation, where you could direct flow through the channels and frags/coral can be mounted on more than just one side of the formation.

Paletta1.jpg


Paletta2.jpg


Good luck...and thanks;)
 
Thanks guys.....thats exactly what I was looking for!!!!! great info......Saw a guy in Justins link using PVC couplers keep the rock off the deck.....may think about that to keep the flow, or drilling the rod idea......

Karl, appreciate the scan......gets the motors going!!!! I agree, that may get around the overflow and still have a dynamic aquascape......

Jordan & Rafael.....I agree those are great tanks, but they are cubes and have the luxury of having depth whereas I don't, hence my delemia of no depth.....if I atleast had a 120g it wouldn't be such a problem.......I see a new tank after I graduate and move into more "permant" living conditions.....moving a 75g is going to be hard enough........

keep em comming please, far from decided, but a good start...Thanks
 
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Hbout epoxy, anyone expoxied LR to the overflow with good results? Thinking about a pilar and a moded version of the dual island channels..........
 
I would think that aragacrete would work better on an overflow than epoxied LR. It would be neat if you did aragacrete around the overflow creating a pilar with a few shelves for coral branching out in random places. I don't know if you've ever seen sanddollar's tank but it had concrete covering the overflows to a nice effect.
 
Doug

I did something a little unusual. Unfortunately, I don't have any good pictures yet. I'll be taking some more tomorrow. I'll have them online soon.

I have a long (6') tall (2.5') narrow (1.5') tank. I also have surge buckets. I needed tall stable rock work.

To achieve that I cut the rocks that formed the base of the rock work in half with a morter saw blade in a chop saw and glued the smooth half of the cut rocks to the bottom of my tank with silicon glue

I then drilled 1/2" dia holes through into all the rocks with a morter drill in a drill press. I used plastic dowels in the holes to stack the rest of the rocks.

The final result was very tall stable rock work with lots of openings.
 
I think I am going to try to do the peaks and channel with the overflow as the backbone of one and the peak just to the left so as that bulb will shine down that face, the other against the back glass just to the right of the other bulb and sweep down and out....I am going to try the acrylic rod and drilling the rock approach to get some crazy stack where people are going to wonder how I was able to play rock tetris so well......

now that I have a game plan, I just need to get the freakin anenome in the nano....I put my zoas, hammer, frog, and xenia in there tonight and see how they do over the next week or so....if alls cool going to stack the rock in the nano and dump the fish and anenome in the middle of the night so as to catch the clown without a fight.....

thanks for the inputs....appreciate it.....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8620165#post8620165 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brian Prestwood
Doug

I did something a little unusual. Unfortunately, I don't have any good pictures yet. I'll be taking some more tomorrow. I'll have them online soon.

I have a long (6') tall (2.5') narrow (1.5') tank. I also have surge buckets. I needed tall stable rock work.

To achieve that I cut the rocks that formed the base of the rock work in half with a morter saw blade in a chop saw and glued the smooth half of the cut rocks to the bottom of my tank with silicon glue

I then drilled 1/2" dia holes through into all the rocks with a morter drill in a drill press. I used plastic dowels in the holes to stack the rest of the rocks.

The final result was very tall stable rock work with lots of openings.
Click to expand...

I was posting the above as you were.....I am interested in seeing that, please post some pics......I still am open to suggestions. I was thinking of elevating it somehow off the deck....I saw someone using PVC couplers, not exactly excited about showing those off, but figured with some clever rock placement could hide em....
 
I was looking for info also about engagement of the rock/dowel....obviously depth, is expoxy needed.....I think by the encrustation on most of my stuff that this will be the last real rearrangment before the tank is broke down for a move, so I need to plan this one good for all my factors above.....Because I have tried every other stacking method there is and need to step up to mechanical means to get the looks I am after......as soon as I figure out what those "looks" are?
 
Doug

I didn't use any expoxy. Depth and firm fit make it stable. The drill press helps form a perfect hole.

A side affect is that the top rocks that don't have anything leaning on them can be rotated 360 degrees on the dowel without fear of falling.
 
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