New 190 almost done!!
- Thread starter bcordill
- Start date
Mrseptember15
New member
OMG its super clean.
The lights are a little more blue in person. I am running on standard magnetic ballest. Here is a another picutre. I attempted to correct the white ballance to show the correct color of the lights.
However, different monitors will display colors differently if not calibrated.
However, different monitors will display colors differently if not calibrated.
Chaotic Reefer4u
♥Acropora Aficionado♥
sweet indeed...
Everyone, Thanks for the comments.
Most of the ideas for this tank came off the reef central forums and TOTMs.
hatfielj:
The rocks do not touch the back of the tank except infront of the overflow box. I wanted to have room to clean behind the rocks and also allow an open scape to prevent dead areas. Behind the rock work I have 2 1" drains feeding the closed loop. This seems to pull alot of water out of this area and prevents detrius build up.
Here is a picture of the drain
28 inches of depth looked like alot until the rocks went in. I might push everything back for a little more room up front.
Most of the ideas for this tank came off the reef central forums and TOTMs.
hatfielj:
The rocks do not touch the back of the tank except infront of the overflow box. I wanted to have room to clean behind the rocks and also allow an open scape to prevent dead areas. Behind the rock work I have 2 1" drains feeding the closed loop. This seems to pull alot of water out of this area and prevents detrius build up.
Here is a picture of the drain
28 inches of depth looked like alot until the rocks went in. I might push everything back for a little more room up front.
I wouldn't push everything back if I were you. It looks really good as is. Plus, its really nice to have all of that space for the fish to swim and for cleaning like you said. Good Job! I'm going to be using your aquascaping design to help me figure out my own on my new 120g I'm starting in the next week or so.
Great work! Your closet is almost exactly like the one I've designed for my system. And our equipment choices are very similar too. I also based my design on the systems of Steve Weast (Orgeon Reef) and Scott (Sidewinder770) -- of course scaled down tremendously.
A few questions about your system if you don't mind:
1. Are you satisfied with the Dart as a return pump ? I also intend to feed multiple pieces of equipment from the sump return via a manifold, and route the main return line through a chiller back to the tank. This will add some additional head pressure, but still think I can use a flow-biased pump (like the Dart or 4200SEQ12) since most tank circulation will come from a CL system and Vortech. I need about 600-800gph for a gravity feed to the skimmer, rest of the overflow will be diverted into a refugium and perhaps remote DSB.
2. How is your chiller plumbed ?
3. How are the Deltec KM500 and PF601 working together ? My plan is to use the kalk stirrer at night to compensate for evaporative losses (which will be substantial here in the desert) and run the calcium reactor mainly during the day.
4. Could you describe your auto top off and water change system ? It seems quite compact and efficient. I already have the Spectrapure MAXCAP RO/DI and am leaning towards getting their LiterMeter III with top off and water exchange modules. Particularly since the equipment will be in a hallway closet, rather than a basement or garage fish room, I'd like to avoid the use of 5G buckets during water changes.
Thanks.
A few questions about your system if you don't mind:
1. Are you satisfied with the Dart as a return pump ? I also intend to feed multiple pieces of equipment from the sump return via a manifold, and route the main return line through a chiller back to the tank. This will add some additional head pressure, but still think I can use a flow-biased pump (like the Dart or 4200SEQ12) since most tank circulation will come from a CL system and Vortech. I need about 600-800gph for a gravity feed to the skimmer, rest of the overflow will be diverted into a refugium and perhaps remote DSB.
2. How is your chiller plumbed ?
3. How are the Deltec KM500 and PF601 working together ? My plan is to use the kalk stirrer at night to compensate for evaporative losses (which will be substantial here in the desert) and run the calcium reactor mainly during the day.
4. Could you describe your auto top off and water change system ? It seems quite compact and efficient. I already have the Spectrapure MAXCAP RO/DI and am leaning towards getting their LiterMeter III with top off and water exchange modules. Particularly since the equipment will be in a hallway closet, rather than a basement or garage fish room, I'd like to avoid the use of 5G buckets during water changes.
Thanks.
ekovalsky:
I noticed your tank was planning to use the same equipment and I also based my design off the Orgeon Reef.
The Dart as a return pump works great. I have about 8ft of head pressure and I can get about 2000 gph. However, my overflow does not handle that much so it is valved down. I have the AP851 on a gravity feed from the overflow and it works fine at 300-350 gph with a 1.5 inch drain.
My chiller is a drop in type so there is no plumbing.
The KM 500 is gravity fed from the R.O. Tank. It drips 24 hrs/day and replaces all of the evaporative losses. I use the valve on the KM 500 to regulate the drip rate which matches the approx rate of the evaporation loss.
When I set up the tank intially, I was running the PF601 when the lights were on.The pH was 7.8-8.0. Running with the KM 500 the pH is stays between 8.0 - 8.2.
I wanted to make water changes very simple to perform. When I perform a water change I shutoff the valve that supplies R.O. water to the KM 500. Then I add salt to the R.O. tank and place a powerhead in the R.O. tank for circulation. When I perform the water change I drain the sump using a tube off the manifold. To add the fresh saltwater I then open a valve off the R.O. tank that drains into and refills the sump. THe R.O. tank is a total drain design so all of the water drains out of the tank. I then refill the R.O. tank and use the water to feed the KM 500.
If you have any more questions please let me know.
I noticed your tank was planning to use the same equipment and I also based my design off the Orgeon Reef.
The Dart as a return pump works great. I have about 8ft of head pressure and I can get about 2000 gph. However, my overflow does not handle that much so it is valved down. I have the AP851 on a gravity feed from the overflow and it works fine at 300-350 gph with a 1.5 inch drain.
My chiller is a drop in type so there is no plumbing.
The KM 500 is gravity fed from the R.O. Tank. It drips 24 hrs/day and replaces all of the evaporative losses. I use the valve on the KM 500 to regulate the drip rate which matches the approx rate of the evaporation loss.
When I set up the tank intially, I was running the PF601 when the lights were on.The pH was 7.8-8.0. Running with the KM 500 the pH is stays between 8.0 - 8.2.
I wanted to make water changes very simple to perform. When I perform a water change I shutoff the valve that supplies R.O. water to the KM 500. Then I add salt to the R.O. tank and place a powerhead in the R.O. tank for circulation. When I perform the water change I drain the sump using a tube off the manifold. To add the fresh saltwater I then open a valve off the R.O. tank that drains into and refills the sump. THe R.O. tank is a total drain design so all of the water drains out of the tank. I then refill the R.O. tank and use the water to feed the KM 500.
If you have any more questions please let me know.
Thanks!
Two more questions:
Hope you don't mind if I copy your top off design. Where did you get the total drain tank ? Couldn't find one like that at US Plastics.
Also what size return line do you use from the Dart's manifold back to the tank ? Do you keep the main flow at 1-1/2" or drop to something smaller like 1" ?
Two more questions:
Hope you don't mind if I copy your top off design. Where did you get the total drain tank ? Couldn't find one like that at US Plastics.
Also what size return line do you use from the Dart's manifold back to the tank ? Do you keep the main flow at 1-1/2" or drop to something smaller like 1" ?
ekovalsky:
I purchased the tank from US platics: here is the link
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=20721&product_id=29077
Mine is the 35 gal version.
On the return I kept 1.5 inches to the tank and only have 1 return.
I tried to keep things as simple as possible.
I look foward to seeing your build.
Brent
I purchased the tank from US platics: here is the link
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=20721&product_id=29077
Mine is the 35 gal version.
On the return I kept 1.5 inches to the tank and only have 1 return.
I tried to keep things as simple as possible.
I look foward to seeing your build.
Brent
nanoreefbro
New member
Wow that is simply awesome.. Great job.. Very neat and clean..
Brent
Thanks for the link to the total drain tank. The 36G one is on its way!
Any issues with the drop-in chiller ? I have always read and heard that in-line was far preferable, but it sure would simplify my plumbing if I were to use a drop-in. My space would easily accomodate a drop-in model, as I can locate the compressor on the other side of the wall in a pantry with the sump in close proximity. The Tradewind 49 (compact 1/2HP) is available in either form, with the same great Copeland compressor. And I can get great pricing too.
Here is the basic schematic (obviously a work in progress) for my equipment closet. As you can see it bears a striking similarity to yours. I will build the sump to accomodate a Deltec Eco cooler in the future. Evaporate cooling would work great here in Arizona, alas the unit is so costly (for what it is) that its purchase cannot be justified by expected savings in electrical consumption. Ditto for the large Ocean Geotronics unit, which is similarly priced *(although it would obviate the need for separate heaters, not that they are expensive).
Thanks for the link to the total drain tank. The 36G one is on its way!
Any issues with the drop-in chiller ? I have always read and heard that in-line was far preferable, but it sure would simplify my plumbing if I were to use a drop-in. My space would easily accomodate a drop-in model, as I can locate the compressor on the other side of the wall in a pantry with the sump in close proximity. The Tradewind 49 (compact 1/2HP) is available in either form, with the same great Copeland compressor. And I can get great pricing too.
Here is the basic schematic (obviously a work in progress) for my equipment closet. As you can see it bears a striking similarity to yours. I will build the sump to accomodate a Deltec Eco cooler in the future. Evaporate cooling would work great here in Arizona, alas the unit is so costly (for what it is) that its purchase cannot be justified by expected savings in electrical consumption. Ditto for the large Ocean Geotronics unit, which is similarly priced *(although it would obviate the need for separate heaters, not that they are expensive).
ekovalsky:
Great design!!
The chiller worked fine on the 125. I am going to wait and see how it does on the 190. If I upgrade will research the pros and cons of each.
A couple of comments on the design.
I was limited on horizontal space in my setup. I wanted to get the largest sump possible, By placing the skimmer in the sump I was able to almost double the sump volume. When the main pump is shut off I have about 15-20 gals of drain off.
Also to save space I put the CO2 tank in the aquaium stand. This allowed my to get a bigger tank (20lbs) and also keep the ugly tank out of the closet.
Great design!!
The chiller worked fine on the 125. I am going to wait and see how it does on the 190. If I upgrade will research the pros and cons of each.
A couple of comments on the design.
I was limited on horizontal space in my setup. I wanted to get the largest sump possible, By placing the skimmer in the sump I was able to almost double the sump volume. When the main pump is shut off I have about 15-20 gals of drain off.
Also to save space I put the CO2 tank in the aquaium stand. This allowed my to get a bigger tank (20lbs) and also keep the ugly tank out of the closet.
Bcordill,
You have a great looking tank and setup! I am looking to set up almost exactly the same tank. Is this tank an "All-Glass" brand? I looked on their website and could not find the dimensions you stated in you first email. I am trying to find a tank that is around 5 foot long and in the 180-200 gallon range without going the custom route. Also do you just run the two (2) 20K's with no other supplemental lighting?
Scott
You have a great looking tank and setup! I am looking to set up almost exactly the same tank. Is this tank an "All-Glass" brand? I looked on their website and could not find the dimensions you stated in you first email. I am trying to find a tank that is around 5 foot long and in the 180-200 gallon range without going the custom route. Also do you just run the two (2) 20K's with no other supplemental lighting?
Scott
Brent, funny you mention that, I was already thinking about putting the CO2 tank in the stand. There is a lot of space available (72" x 29" x 36") and the only other equipment destined for it is the CL (Dart, OM 4-way, plumbing) and perhaps a separate refuge for pods, as a pair of mandarins is on my wish list.
With the arrangement I have, a drop-in chiller may be a great choice. I hadn't even considered it before. The compressor will go in a separate room adjacent to the equipment closet and the sump will only be two or three feet away. I haven't yet finalized the sump design so I could be a compartment just for the cooling element. Not only will this simplify plumbing, but it will also eliminate the need to periodically clean an in-line chiller. Most of the negative things I've read about drop-ins are the limited distance between compressor and sump but this isn't an issue for me. I'd be able to use a smaller return pump (like an Eheim) without an in-line chiller in the return circuit also.
I have to play with some empty boxes to see how big a sump I could get into the existing cabinets as I don't really want to cut the face frame. I certainly could locate the gravity-fed, recirculating skimmer in the sump if there is room. This would again simplify plumbing and also help prevent water from leaking onto the floor.
Thanks again for your great ideas!
With the arrangement I have, a drop-in chiller may be a great choice. I hadn't even considered it before. The compressor will go in a separate room adjacent to the equipment closet and the sump will only be two or three feet away. I haven't yet finalized the sump design so I could be a compartment just for the cooling element. Not only will this simplify plumbing, but it will also eliminate the need to periodically clean an in-line chiller. Most of the negative things I've read about drop-ins are the limited distance between compressor and sump but this isn't an issue for me. I'd be able to use a smaller return pump (like an Eheim) without an in-line chiller in the return circuit also.
I have to play with some empty boxes to see how big a sump I could get into the existing cabinets as I don't really want to cut the face frame. I certainly could locate the gravity-fed, recirculating skimmer in the sump if there is room. This would again simplify plumbing and also help prevent water from leaking onto the floor.
Thanks again for your great ideas!
