New 50g CADLights build!

[LinkinReef]

If you are having issues with water not going to the refugium side of the T, you will need a valve on the other side to restrict flow. The water is just taking the path of least resistance. I will be needing lots of valves in my new set up to do the same.

I thought about that but wasn't sure if it would be too much :lol:

So, one ball valve on each end and dial it in little by little.

 

[cakemanPA]

That is what I had to do

 

[dkeller_nc]

Assuming you're planning on putting a few propeller pumps in the main display for flow/circulation, you really don't need all that much going through the return pump. So a Sicce 2.0 should be enough. Keep in mind, however, that you're only going to get about 250 - 300 gph out of the pump because of the back pressure on it.

You might consider the possibility of putting a separate Sicce Synchra 0.5 to drive your media reactors. It's a heck of a lot more convenient to have a separate pump for your reactors, since you don't need to turn off or valve off the main pump to service the reactors.

If you don't already have the BRS reactors, I would recommend the two little fishies phosban reactors instead. The take up less room in your sump, have a lot more convenient setup for holding the media, and are a heck of a lot easier to open up to clean/replace the contents.

 

[LinkinReef]

Assuming you're planning on putting a few propeller pumps in the main display for flow/circulation, you really don't need all that much going through the return pump. So a Sicce 2.0 should be enough. Keep in mind, however, that you're only going to get about 250 - 300 gph out of the pump because of the back pressure on it.

You might consider the possibility of putting a separate Sicce Synchra 0.5 to drive your media reactors. It's a heck of a lot more convenient to have a separate pump for your reactors, since you don't need to turn off or valve off the main pump to service the reactors.

If you don't already have the BRS reactors, I would recommend the two little fishies phosban reactors instead. The take up less room in your sump, have a lot more convenient setup for holding the media, and are a heck of a lot easier to open up to clean/replace the contents.

I'll be using either 2 mp10, mp40 or 1 wp25 as far as display circulation goes so I guess the return pump being part of the DT circulation isn't a big concern.

As far as the reactors go, I did another test and it does seem that I might like the separate pump for the reactors instead. I already have 2 of the BRS reactors that I will be using. I currently use one gac and gfo in one reactor but I'll separate them on this new tank to keep the flow steady for each. Can I run both of them from the sicce 0.5 or might a sicce 1.0.

 

[LinkinReef]

I think I have the plumbing down to the final design

View attachment 271678

 

[LinkinReef]

Quick update on this. Have water in it mixing with salt and all the plumbing seems to be running great. Completely silent!

 

[dkeller_nc]

Umm - you might have an issue here. You definitely must seal the inside of your stand with either paint or a clear finish. Otherwise, the wood will absorb a lot of moisture and swell. The fasteners will also heavily corrode if the stand remains unpainted and wasn't put together SS screws.

Apologies if this is a "duh" comment and all you're doing is a leak/plumbing test and then are going to empty the tanks, but I thought I'd mention it.

 

[LinkinReef]

Umm - you might have an issue here. You definitely must seal the inside of your stand with either paint or a clear finish. Otherwise, the wood will absorb a lot of moisture and swell. The fasteners will also heavily corrode if the stand remains unpainted and wasn't put together SS screws.

Apologies if this is a "duh" comment and all you're doing is a leak/plumbing test and then are going to empty the tanks, but I thought I'd mention it.

Thanks! Definitely not a "duh" comment :lol2:

The bottom panel where the sump sits and the frame were sealed with a clear finish. The outside panels that will cover the stand are currently being painted going on the second coat and then will be sealed as well. The back panel is removable and will also be painted/sealed as well.

 

[LinkinReef]

Well decided I might regret not painting the inside as well so might as well just paint it now. Will do a second coat later tonight or tomorrow and stain it again the day after

 

[dkeller_nc]

I'm thinking that you'll be happy that you painted it down the road; clear-finished wood surfaces inside cabinets with sumps tend to look pretty grungy after a while. And trying to do it after the tank's set-up can lead to tank wipe-outs from paint VOCs.

One other thought on the inside of the stand - if it's possible to do so without going nuts, you might want to block up and seal the holes next to the legs on the inside. Inevitably, water will get spilled during routine tank maintenance, and if it can drain down underneath, it can ruin floors and/or promote mold growth since it's enclosed and isn't easy to remove.

An alternative is to cut some 1/2" high, 3" long vents in a couple of places along the bottom of the sides/back of the stand. That allows ventilation so that if water does get spilled, it drys fairly quickly.

 

[Reefvet]

By any chance do you have a name, email, or phone number for anyone that works there at CAD Lights? I paid $400 for a new stand in December and I've been told it shipped several times, but I can't get anyone to respond or reply in three weeks, it's been 7 weeks since I was told it was heading to shipping. Any help at all would be much appreciated, sorry to threadjack.

Call your CC company and explain the situation. They'll have a lot more influence on the attention given to your order.

 

[LinkinReef]

I'm thinking that you'll be happy that you painted it down the road; clear-finished wood surfaces inside cabinets with sumps tend to look pretty grungy after a while. And trying to do it after the tank's set-up can lead to tank wipe-outs from paint VOCs.

One other thought on the inside of the stand - if it's possible to do so without going nuts, you might want to block up and seal the holes next to the legs on the inside. Inevitably, water will get spilled during routine tank maintenance, and if it can drain down underneath, it can ruin floors and/or promote mold growth since it's enclosed and isn't easy to remove.

An alternative is to cut some 1/2" high, 3" long vents in a couple of places along the bottom of the sides/back of the stand. That allows ventilation so that if water does get spilled, it drys fairly quickly.

I completely agree already. I love the way it looks painted instead!

I have a clear rubber mat sitting under the stand and coming out 12" out from the stand in case of the spills. I still will try to seal those holes though just in case.

I might do the vents idea. I rather be safe than sorry down the road.

 

[LinkinReef]

By any chance do you have a name, email, or phone number for anyone that works there at CAD Lights? I paid $400 for a new stand in December and I've been told it shipped several times, but I can't get anyone to respond or reply in three weeks, it's been 7 weeks since I was told it was heading to shipping. Any help at all would be much appreciated, sorry to threadjack.

Did you ever hear from them with the info I sent you? They really are horrible with customer service most of the time...

 

[dkeller_nc]

I might do the vents idea. I rather be safe than sorry down the road.

In my opinion, this is the best option. I can relate one more thought on the holes from my own (bad) experience - if there's a way for a critical small part to get into the "box" underneath the sump, then it's 100% guaranteed that it will happen.

 

[LinkinReef]

In my opinion, this is the best option. I can relate one more thought on the holes from my own (bad) experience - if there's a way for a critical small part to get into the "box" underneath the sump, then it's 100% guaranteed that it will happen.

Oh geez...done. Doing the vents later today instead. I'm going to do them from the back where I can work on it in case something happens and it won't interfere with the fron view