New addition

[IronMan72]

I just put a Coral Beauty angelfish (Centropyge bispinosa) on hold at the LFS. It is a beautiful fish. From what I've been able to find, these fish are generally reef safe when well fed but the occasional individual may stray to the dark side. From what I've read, it usually won't do any major damage to any single specimen in a tank my size if it does. I've still got a chance to back out if need be.

I currently have one Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris), one Hippo Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus), one Bi-Color Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor), and two Diamond Gobies (Valenciennea puellaris). I have mostly soft coral, a single SPS, and a few RBTA. I also have a few snails, two emerald crabs (Mithraculus sculptus), and an Urchin. I would like to add one Copperband Butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus), and one Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) in the future. I'm considering another small blenny as well but the boss wants a shrimp, goby pair so I haven't decided yet, probably a shrimp, goby pair. Any comments on the compatability of this stocking list are appreciated. The tank is 180G and the total system volume is currently about 250G with an expansion planned to bring it to about 280G.

 

[teamdulski]

They will stray to the dark side, especially if you have any clams or trachyphyllia.

 

[IronMan72]

No clams or brains presently though I've considered both. I have some zoas, mushrooms, toadstools, acans, euphyllia, colt, and kenya currently.

 

[Sweet]

I second the no clam. My buddy had a coral beauty and he found it dead in the clam. So I assume it tried to go in there and eat it.

 

[EllieSuz]

I think the Coral Beauties are the most beautiful of the dwarf angels. I opted for a Flame instead, but whenever I see a Beauty, I long for one. Congratulations and good luck with it.

 

[tmz]

I agree, could be a problem with clams and fleshy lps.


No .... brains presently. That sounds funny


I often feel that way but age is my excuse.:spin2:

 

[IronMan72]

No .... brains presently. That sounds funny
I often feel that way but age is my excuse.:spin2:

I wondered how long it would take for someone to comment on that. I almost qualified that statement by stating that there were no brains inside or outside of my reef but decided that it was obvious there were none on the outside. :hmm3:

 

[IronMan72]

They will stray to the dark side, especially if you have any clams or trachyphyllia.

I second the no clam.

I agree, could be a problem with clams and fleshy lps.

I've always been intrigued by clams but have little desire to keep one. My wife wanted to get one some time ago before I had lighting to keep one but haven't heard anything about it since. I will be adding a 30G breeder to the system for frag propagation and if she really wanted one I could keep it in there for her. She is in love with the Coral Beauty so I'll share these concerns with her but I suspect there will be a Coral Beauty exploring my reef soon.

Would Candy Cane coral (Caulastrea furcata) and Blastos (Blastomussa wellsi) fall into the fleshy LPS category?

Any comments on the fish stocking list? From what I can find they all seem to be generally compatible. The stocking order will likely be shrimp goby / shrimp pair first, followed by copperband butterfly, and finally the yellow tang. This will likely take 6 to 9 months, introducing a new fish every two to three months.

 

[tmz]

Yes. i would consider them fleshy as are most lps but don't know if a centropyge bisopinosa( coral beauty) will go after them in your tank. They do tend to pick at things depending on the individual.

My paracanthurs hepatus( Hippo) a predominantly carnivorous fish vs other surgeon fishes,as an adult, won't allow me to keep trachypylia or scolymia in it's tank for example .It likes to nip them to a point where they are constantly closed.. This is considered rare but normal behavior for them. It likes it's territory the way it want's it too;if I put acoral of any type in a spot it doesn't approve of it tosses it around.

Chelmon rostratus( cooper bandedbutterfy) may also nip ,lps, some soft corals and zoanthids.They don't ship well and may be a challenge to feed .

Sound like youa re ready to have some fun getting those new critters. Enjoy the journey andGood Luck.

 

[IronMan72]

Good thing I QT

Good thing I QT

I picked up my Coral Beauty Angel on Monday and put it into my QT. I just noticed small white spots on the body and fins. Marine Ich? Can't get a pcture yet, it's still hiding. I've never had a fish with Ich and need to know what to do now?

 

[tmz]

If it's ich and you are doing tank transfer; continue. A fresh water dip or formalin bath can help knock off some of the parasites on it and some out of it's gills for immediate erlief. . If it survives the first infestation ; it won't get hit again with the tank transfer method. The parasites are likely leaving if you see the spots.
Need a picture.
S spots could be ich, really tiny spots could be velvet, some could be lymphocystis which usually cures itself with good nutrition water quality and time
If it's velvet , I'd do a fresh water dip or formalin bath and then start start copper treatment.

 

[IronMan72]

The first tank transfer is supposed to be tomorrow so I'll move forward with that. How long do I leave the fish in for a FW dip? Any other suggestions are welcome.

It appears that most have fallen off but if you look closely you can see a couple. I failed to clean the glass before I took these so they are pretty poor quality.

 

[tmz]

Looks like ich;sounds like ich ;pretty sure. Any other symptoms?
Typically, when they exit a fish that survives the initial infestation,it recovers for a week or so and then gets whacked with a much stronger second infestation as the parasites encyst ; multiply by hundredfolds;,hatch and seek out a host.

Fresh water dip is in temp acclimated water for 3 to 5 mins. I'd skip that if the fish is doing better and they are exiting. If it's gasping I'd do it to get some out of the gills.

They'll now go to the bottom or other surfaces to encyst and you'll leave them behind on transfer before they have a chance to multiply and "hatch" and kill them when you dry them out. If any are left on the fish , they'll get left behind in the next transfer .

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[IronMan72]

Thanks Tom. It's nice to know that you're following along. I feel much better about it because of your help. I am so glad I resisted the urge to just plop it in the DT.

 

[tmz]

Yup, That is a strong urge;many give in to unfortunately. I had to learn the hard way.

How is the fish doing?

Paraphrasing a Will Rogers, humnorist and celebrated commentator from the 1930s: most people learn by reading and listening. some are gifted and learn by doing and some pee on an electric fence more than once.

 

[IronMan72]

Seems to be doing well. Is eating Mysis and even some pellets. It is coming out into the open more frequently and seems to associate me with feeding time.

I put off the first transfer for one day to give the rest of the cysts the opportunity to fall off. It appears that they are all gone so I'll be doing the change this evening.

 

[tmz]

Be careful with they timing ,they can sometimes hatch and attack in 4 days and then were back to square one.

 

[IronMan72]

update

update

The stay in the second tank was uneventful and no spots were noted. It is in the third tank and seems to be acclimating well though not eating as readily as I had hoped. It is picking at the food offered but is at least eating something at every feeding. I did a 50% water change on day two because a trace of ammonia was detected.

Do I need to do an extra transfer due to the ich detected in the first tank?

 

[tent boy]

Can't help you with the qt. However, I had a coral beauty for approx 3 years in a softy/lps tank and he was a very good boy. Never bothered a thing. Even had a clam. So there is definately hope for getting "a good boy". Best of luck with the qt.

 

[tmz]

No but extra qt wouldn't hurt either. 4 transfers should do even for an infected fish.

Heres a qucik timetable on the life cycle:

trophont -in the fish for 3 to 7 days
protomont -leaves the fish goes to bottom or other surface and forms a cyst in 3 to 18hours
tomites form in the cyst over 3 to 28 days and hatch out as trophonts which must find a host within 24 hours or die.
You can juxtapose teh transfer schedule and see all the tomites are left behind.

You can also see why I was concerned about extended the stay beyond 3 days per tank as some hatching might occur in the 4th day and beyond from the time the trophonts leave the fish.