New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings

[shnapper20]

dolomite

dolomite

new reefer wrote he filled his reactor with '' I had to make do with what I had available for media - I'm using about 30% correl "rubble", 50% calcium carbonate sand and 20% dolomite (to add some magnesium to the water as well...)'' I work in a glass factory where dolomite is one of the raw base materials. At present my ca reactor (thanks darren) has corals rubble in it . Is it safe to add dolomite is it benifical to add dolomite and is there anything else that I could add to ther reactor to improve water quality? thanks john

 

[Reefbound1]

I cant believe I sat here and read this entire thread including the split... Wow I think DJ88 created somthing great and has really morphed into many different types of reactors each with there own little changes that work for them.
Im also going to build this in coming weeks and I would like to know if there is a definitetive build list of needed parts incase I missed it?

 

[melev]

I made a page of how to construct it on my site years ago to organize the pertinent facts of this thread. Surely it was linked a few times in this thread early on. It doesn't have a cut list, but it should help.

 

[Reefbound1]

I went back and found this, I dont know why Im seeing these symbles instead of numbers.This was on page 26... does anyone else see it the way I do?

Material = Acrylic
Tank Height = 17.75"
Tank Width = 6.75"
Tank Length = 7.25 "
Acrylic Thickness = 3/8"
Approximate Gallons = 4
Cut List:
Bottom = 7 1/4 " x 6 3/4"
Front = 7 1/4 " x 17 3/8"
Back = 7 1/4 " x 17 3/8"
2 Sides = 17 3/8 " x 6"
Top = 9ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ x 8 Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ with center routed or cut out to 7" x 6 1/2"
Top Flange = 9ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ x 8 Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ with holes drilled and tapped for nylon screws
Reactor Feet= 7 Ã"šÃ‚¼Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ x 2 Ã"šÃ‚¾Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚
Tray inside reactor= 3 1/16ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ x 7 1/4 "

Additional Materials
1. 4 oz. can of thin acrylic cement
2. a needle squeeze bottle
3. 2 oz. tube of thick filling type acrylic cement
4. electrical tape
5. sand paper
6. 4 -John Guest Ã"šÃ‚¼Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ speed fittings
7. 1 -John Guest Ã"šÃ‚¼Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ T-speed fitting
8. 1 -Dual gauge CO2 Regulator with needle valve bubble counter and solenoid
9. 1- CO2 bottle
10. 1- Ã"šÃ‚¼Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ irrigation valve
11. 2- Bulkhead Fitting, 1/2" Slip x FIPT (original plan calls for tapping and threading but I feel more comfortable with the bulkheads)
12. 2 - 90 degree Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ slip
13. 2 Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ T-s slip
13. 1- Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ Union
14 Pieces of Ã"šÃ‚½Ã¢â"šÂ¬Ã‚ PVC to make connections

 

[olemos]

here you go http://www.melevsreef.com/dj88.html

 

[melev]

Yes, it is symbols for me as well. If someone wants to fix that into a clean version, I'll add it to the webpage. And post it in this thread as well.

 

[vmichael]

4 gallon Calcium Reactor:

Material = Acrylic
Height = 15"
Width = 8"
Length = 8 "
Acrylic Thickness = 3/8"
Approximate Gallons = 4

Cut List: 3/8” acrylic
Bottom = 8 " x 8"
Front = 8 " x 14 5/8"
Back = 8 " x 14 5/8"
2 Sides = 14 5/8 " x 7 1/4"
Center Baffle 8” x 13 3/8”
Top 9 ¾” with center routed out 8” x 8”
Top Flange = Top 9 ¾” x Top 9 ¾”
Tray= 7 1/4" x 3 5/8"
Additional Materials
1. 4 oz. can of thin acrylic cement
2. a needle squeeze bottle
3. 2 oz. tube of thick filling type acrylic cement
4. electrical tape
5. sand paper
The small needle squeeze bottle will be used to apply the cement by squirting it between the pieces of plastic after they have been taped together.
Use electrical tape because it can be stretched to apply even pressure as the cement dries. The tube of thick filling type acrylic cement is used to fill any small spaces left by not having straight cuts. This will not be a problem if you order the plastic precut.



GETTING STARTED
Remove the paper from all the edges you will be gluing.
Leave paper on the rest of the plastic to help protect it from being scratched.
Using a common scraper, de-burr the edges. This is a very important step because the edges of the acrylic will be very sharp
Lay the bottom of the tank on a flat surface.
Position the front and one of the sides in place and tape it together.
Working your way around the tank, position the back and other side in place using tape.
The best way to tape the tank together is to have a helper hold the sides while you do the taping.
Once the tank is taped together, you just run the needle bottle full of cement down each edge that you are gluing.
The space between the two pieces of plastic becomes clear as the cement melts the plastic.
Be very careful that you do not get any glue on the rest of the plastic because it will damage the surface.
It is better if you do not need the thick cement, but I often run a bead of it inside of all seems. This extra cement will fill any leaks that are caused by the uneven edges.

 

[Reefbound1]

Thanks for the clean up ,Now I now what I need to get... Thanks.

 

[melev]

Page updated with that information. Thanks!

 

[Reefbound1]

Is there a reason why the size of the acrylic changed from a 1/4 to 3/8? or can 1/4 still be used... If anything Im going to downsize a little because this is going on a 75 gallon tank.

 

[vmichael]

1/4 is pretty flimsy if you ask me.

 

[melev]

You can use 1/4" as the unit isn't that large. However, it may affect your cut list as the material is thinner.

I'm sure many were made with 1/4" and are still working today.

 

[eugeneK]

My contribution to the thread:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1104517

DJ thank you for the inspiration!

-Eugene

 

[New Reefer]

Re: dolomite

Re: dolomite

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9610333#post9610333 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shnapper20
new reefer wrote he filled his reactor with '' I had to make do with what I had available for media - I'm using about 30% correl "rubble", 50% calcium carbonate sand and 20% dolomite (to add some magnesium to the water as well...)'' I work in a glass factory where dolomite is one of the raw base materials. At present my ca reactor (thanks darren) has corals rubble in it . Is it safe to add dolomite is it benifical to add dolomite and is there anything else that I could add to ther reactor to improve water quality? thanks john

Dolomite consists of mainly calcium carbonate, some magnesium, and a very small amount of iron. If your water quality is good and you have an iron deficiency, adding dolomite will be beneficial (adding magnesium and traces of iron) - if, on the other hand, you are battling with high nutrients and the resulting algae, you would probably not want to add dolomite.

Dolomite is less soluble than aragonite and calcite, and will thus dissolve slower than the crushed goral. I have been using it for quite some time, and believe that it's addition does have some benefit.

Regards,
Hennie

 

[ReefJerk]

Re: Re: dolomite

Re: Re: dolomite

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9850609#post9850609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by New Reefer
...Dolomite is less soluble than aragonite and calcite, and will thus dissolve slower than the crushed coral. I have been using it for quite some time, and believe that it's addition does have some benefit.

Regards,
Hennie

Would it be feasible to add the dolomite to the bottom of the first chamber to give it a chance to react with the CO2 first? I guess it would be an undertaking to add more once the initial load is depleted. Oh well...

 

[New Reefer]

Re: Re: Re: dolomite

Re: Re: Re: dolomite

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10044938#post10044938 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefJerk
Would it be feasible to add the dolomite to the bottom of the first chamber to give it a chance to react with the CO2 first?

Just to correct a possible miss-understanding here... The calcium medium (be it dolomite or coral) does not really react with the CO2. The CO2 just causes the pH of the water to drop. Calcium becomes more soluble at a reduced pH, and the high levels of dissolved calcium and alkalinity in the reactor effluent then causes these levels in the tank water to increase.

I just add the dolomite to the top of the first chamber - with a high flow rate inside the reactor the pH is effectively the same everywhere.

Hennie

 

[ReefJerk]

So, why the need for the different chamber sizes or adding the dolomite to the first chamber? In essence, should it even matter where it's located? I am not trying to refute your explanation, I just want have a clear understanding.

Cliff

 

[New Reefer]

I am not trying to refute your explanation, I just want have a clear understanding.

No problem, and you are quite right to question anything which does not make sense...

In theory, the pH of the water inside the reactor should gradually increase from a lowest value at the bottom of the larger chamber to a highest value at the bottom of the smaller chamber (because the CO2 is used up as the water progresses from the circulating pump's outler to it's intake), and this would be the case if the water flow was low enough. In my unit (and most others, I presume...) the pump is large enough to sustain a high flow rate through the unit, and this in effect mixes the water to a rather uniform level. I suppose a very accurate laboratory-grade pH meter would be able to detect a minute fluctuation in pH, but for all practical purposes I've found the level to be the same everywhere in the unit.

Again, in theory, it would be better to place the dolomite at the bottom of the first chamber (as theoretically the pH would be lower there...), but even if this (lower pH) was true in practice it would still mean that one would have to remove all the remaining aragonite/crushed coral media to replace the dolomite which would be used up quicker (if the theory ran true).

In the beginning I have done it this way, but through actual experience over the past year or two (can't remember when I built this reactor, but it was a *long* time ago...) I've found that there is no real benefit, and it's much easier to add the dolomite on top.

It's obviously your own choice, so feel free to gain your own experience

Hennie

 

[ReefJerk]

Thus the use of a higher flow pump. That way, you don't even have to worry about it. This way, thorough recirculation is applied throughout the entire reactor body. That makes simple enough sense. Thanks for the clear up.

Cliff

 

[shnapper20]

Hi, I have built a ca reactor based on this design. It has been running for over 6mths on an 8*2*2 tank and has managed to maintain a high ca reading of 450 with a minimal co2bubble rate of 1/sec. My tank isn’t overloaded in corals (yet) and I believe the ca reactor will easily satisfy it needs. However I made the reactor quite large in order to obtain this. (Its details are in this thread somewhere) and I have had to date 3 leaks, all caused by slightly pressurising the chamber. The slight pressure has caused the walls to flex and the glue to crack. Imp now at the mark 3 stage of leak repair, having to incorporate extra bracing etc. The reason I have raised this is if I were to build another of this size I would have made it from 10mm material and allowed more bracing especially around the top so no flexing of the chamber could occur even if dead headed against full pump pressure. I hope this helps someone in the future.