New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings

Very good point, shnapper20. I also had my first model leaking at a burst seam. MkII was made with reinforcement strips at the seams, and with two reinforcing "bands" around the body. This has worked well for quite some time now...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10422856#post10422856 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by New Reefer
Very good point, shnapper20. I also had my first model leaking at a burst seam. MkII was made with reinforcement strips at the seams, and with two reinforcing "bands" around the body. This has worked well for quite some time now...
Here's my explosion before I ever fired it up. This shows a burst sheet rather than a seam, though.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1150672?s=&postid=10273485#post10273485
 
is there a material rundown of this great DIY? it would be helpful in my end....thanks in advance.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10611292#post10611292 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefJerk
Here's my explosion before I ever fired it up. This shows a burst sheet rather than a seam, though.
This might be better

DSCN3343.jpg
 
ReefJerk,

That crack is easily fixed with weld-on 16... apply a layer on the inside following the crack, and one on the outside as well, should be good as new ;) Looks very nice, and i'm sure you were upset, but this one of the great benefits of working with acrylic, it's easily fixed :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10613510#post10613510 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jman77
ReefJerk,

That crack is easily fixed with weld-on 16... apply a layer on the inside following the crack, and one on the outside as well, should be good as new ;) Looks very nice, and i'm sure you were upset, but this one of the great benefits of working with acrylic, it's easily fixed :)

I think I would glue a new piece on top of the crack, or route out that bad section and apply a new piece instead. No reason to live with a cracked reactor from Day One. One day that will be the spot that gives.
 
I would patch it as well just to be safe, but it's such a nice looking unit :)

I've actually fixed a similar type of crack on the bottom of a sump a few years ago, and it has yet to re-crack inthe same area. The Weld-On was actually pulled into the crack through capillary action , and it looked almost like new after it dried. I figure this much, Weld On will chemicaly bond two acrylic pieces together, so it should be able to patch it if it gets pulled into the crack :)
 
Actually, it was built for me by CALVIN415. He's the local acrylicworks guy here in Colorado Springs. He actually routed out that whole side and reglued a new piece on.

As far as the size on these units, a 4" square could easily handle 200 gallons. Mine is built 8" square and utilizes 18" of height when the filter pads are in. I'm certain this unit could handle 1500 gallons if cranked up.
 
I redid my seams with silastic (over the originally glued fillets) instead of reinforcing them with bracing. No leaks so far, I figure the silastic should be a little more forgiving with any flex in the joints, then the glue which tends to be brittle
 
bpm means bubbles per minute. this is the way the amount of CO2 coming from the co2 tank is monitored. it bubbles through a bubble counter (cylinder full of water) and you count the bubbles for a minute or 15 second and multiply it out to get bpm
 
Sorry to bring back a old but awsome thread. Just wondering if anyone used 1/4" acrylic instead of 3/8" when they built one of these and if its holding up alright.
 
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