New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings

[gregt]

This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=4764325#post4764325

 

[MK Reefer]

Just wanted to share with Darren the two I built based on his design with some minor changes, the biggest being making the updraft chamber much bigger.

I plan on using a mag 5 or eheim 1250 for this bad boy, but a few pages back I heard someone complaining about heat with the mag so now I may go with the eheim pump.

Can people post which pumps they are running these reactors with. Again, Darren thanks for the design and taking the time out to answer all the questions. The info in this thread is invaluable, and may one day put all the Ca Reactor makers out of business.

Mike

 

[lavith]

Nice reactors Mike, is that second one that you build for me?

coolwater

 

[vmichael]

How much are you asking for them?

 

[MK Reefer]

I am not actively selling these, I built two since the acrylic for two was only 25% more, as thats the way the plastic store charges, so I decided to make two and I will have one available locally for some local reefer

Yup, coolwater the secnd one is for you

Mike

 

[New Reefer]

Mike,

Just check that the 4 plastic screws are enough to keep the lid on without leaking... I found that I needed at least 4 screws per side (a total of 12 screws) before the lid would seal water tight onto the flange.

Hennie

 

[schwaggs]

I agree, a screw every 1-2 inches. If you plan on using the more powerfull pumps, I would stick closer to 1".

I am running a MAG 3 and it works perfectly. I even built my chambers slightly larger than Darren's original design and I think that a MAG 3 is all that is needed. I don't get any heat buildup.

 

[MK Reefer]

I will be using 16 screws in the reactor. I only had 6 screws lying around, so I need to get more

I am still torn between the mag 3, mag 5 or eheim 1250 for this unit.. decisions, decisions...

Mike

 

[Fishguru]

very nice, but im thinking of building a square skimmer, same principal, dto match the square CA reactor I built, do you see any downfalls, My skimmer and CA Reactor, sit outside my tank, so I want them to look similar, one for each side....

 

[melev]

Look for a thread by H20ENG, as he not only built a square skimmer but posted pictures of it along with other square equipment.

 

[Fishguru]

ok thanks melev. I built this Reactor, based on a Square one, and am gonna build it same height etc, just want to see the plumbing others have used etc

 

[eidillitih]

Here is my latest project DIY Calcium Reactor. I haddn't added the CO2 tank, gauge or taps with stiff line tubing. This thing is huge 18X9X10, first chamber is around 5inches while other is 3 1/2. Let me tell you now this thing is UGLY. But it will work, until I decide to build another. This was my first time working with acrylic so their was some trail and error. It hold water though, so you can't beat that, especially when you consider it only cost me less than $20. I already had the pump, the acrylic was given to me along with the glue. Just had to buy plumbing parts and screws.

 

[reefarchitect]

I'm sure this has been asked a dozen times if not more in the previous thread, but here goes. I really want a calcium reactor and am toying with the idea of making it myself. How realistic of a project is this for someone who has never owned a calcium reactor? I have hit every link I could find for this one in particular and am just about ready to take the plunge. Any advice? Also, on the cut list referenced to on the other thread, I did not see dimensions for the base (the black acrylic one in the original picture). Finaly, my tank is only a 58 gallon, with possible aspirations of a 125 in the next couple of years. Besides the chamber modification, is there anything else I should change?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

AJL

 

[vmichael]

I'm sure this has been asked a dozen times if not more in the previous thread, but here goes. I really want a calcium reactor and am toying with the idea of making it myself. How realistic of a project is this for someone who has never owned a calcium reactor? I have hit every link I could find for this one in particular and am just about ready to take the plunge. Any advice? Also, on the cut list referenced to on the other thread, I did not see dimensions for the base (the black acrylic one in the original picture). Finaly, my tank is only a 58 gallon, with possible aspirations of a 125 in the next couple of years. Besides the chamber modification, is there anything else I should change?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

AJL

It been said here and elswhere a dozen of times...
DIY is not necesarily less expensive; it does mean that if you do it right you are going to wind up with a quality product; one which you can take pride in. I would be concerned since you are already doubting yourself before you even got started.

My suggestion is that you read everything on this thread.. if you feel comfortable..then go for it. If you still have doubts, go out an buy one.

 

[MK Reefer]

The parts to do it right in a high quality way are expensive, and if you have to buy the tools it gets even more expensive, and almost comes as close to the cost of a commercially available unit. That being said some of us love to DIY so we don't care how much time or money it takes, as long as we get to get our hands dirty

I for one love to build stuff, and I think my reactors turned out as well if not better then any commercially available reactor, and I love the design Derren came up with.

Mike

 

[reefarchitect]

Thanks for your imput. I didn't set out to save money, so not sure about the references to cost? As for doubting myself, thats not really the case either. I am asking for suggestions on improvements and maybe a summary of others' findings in reference to what worked and what worked better.

Maybe a GEO or Deltec is the way to go, but I will continue my quest for information before I make that decision. So if anyone out there is willing to offer suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

AJL

 

[vmichael]

What CO2 regulator are you folks using? I have a Milwakee MA-957 and I've gone through 4 of these in the past 9 months.
Granted, Milwuakee is replacing them every time they go bad but 4 in 9 mos is not a very good track record. The most recent event was almost devastating.

Problem:
I'm having a hard time keeping a consitent bubble count for a prolonged period of time. Milwaukee says that its beause too much back pressure builds up between the Low pressure guage and the needle valve that controls the bubble counter. At the suggestion of the magnufacturer; they said to ingnore the low pressure valve.

Close tank valve, close low pressure guage valve, open needle valve all the way. Open Tank valve all the way. Slowly open the Low pressure Valve 1/8 turn every 45-60 seconds until you reach the desired bubble count.

I followed these instructions, and this morning my sump, display and refuge had a PH of 6.9. Pressure on the CO2 tank dropped from 1000 psi to 700 psi. There was no water in the bubble counter. Apparently at some point it must have just started pushing alot of CO2. Luckily, I wasn't away and caught it the next morning. I immediately started dosing kalk in order to bring the PH back up.

Is anyone else having problems with their regulator? Is the Milwaukee regulator just a toy and perhaps I need to be looking at a beter quality reulator? If so, What?

 

[schwaggs]

I have been using a Milwaukee for almost a year without problems. I set the pressure to about 20psi then open the needle valve until I get a decent bubble count. The actual bubble count for me isn't that important since I have a pH controller that shuts down the CO2 when the water in the reactor hits 6.7. Of course, it is still important to calibrate the pH controller to make sure you don't melt your media like I did last week....

 

[vmichael]

I have been using a Milwaukee for almost a year without problems. I set the pressure to about 20psi then open the needle valve until I get a decent bubble count. The actual bubble count for me isn't that important since I have a pH controller that shuts down the CO2 when the water in the reactor hits 6.7. Of course, it is still important to calibrate the pH controller to make sure you don't melt your media like I did last week....

That sounds like it may be a sound solution and eliminate th need for a bubble counter.

Where do you place the PH Controller probe in the reactor?

 

[New Reefer]

Let me tell you now this thing is UGLY. But it will work, until I decide to build another. This was my first time working with acrylic so their was some trail and error. It hold water though, so you can't beat that

Yup, you sure can't and it does not look so bad either... congratulations.

I am asking for suggestions on improvements and maybe a summary of others' findings in reference to what worked and what worked better.

Oh, it's not so difficult as some would have you believe, and I'm sure that with a bit of common sense you will be able to build it just fine. Of course, having the right tools will help, but getting a few pieces of acrylic to be square is not THAT difficult, even with just a hacksaw and a file...

Some "tips":

• If possible, have the acrylic cut to size by your supplier - it's much easier this way...
• Make sure that all edges are smooth and straight.
• Make sure that all corners are square, and that parallel sides are actually parallel.
• Use the "pins" method (search RC...) and a thin solvent to "wick" the glue into the joints.
• For added peace of mind, place a fillet of thicker glue on the inside of all joints.
• Only do one edge at a time, and make sure that it is square before you apply the glue.
• Dry-fit the parts first, and THINK about what you are doing before gluing.

Good luck

What CO2 regulator are you folks using? I have a Milwakee MA-957 and I've gone through 4 of these in the past 9 months

I don't know this brand, but any CO2 or Argon gas regulator used for TIG / MIG welding would probably work a lot better than a "hobby" grade regulator - and would probably be cheaper to boot... Many of these regulators have adjustable flow meters, but you would be safer to add a proper Whitey needle valve after the flow meter's valve.

HTH
Hennie