New DIY Ca reactor

I've read through this whole thread and still have a question! So, I don't own a pH monitor or controller yet and have used a handheld meticulously calibrated. I can only measure the effluent pH. It measures 7.0 now if I measure it from a slow drip. If I open the valve all the way and let it rush out and fill a cup a goodly amount, it measures 6.7. Explain that one?

But that's not really the issue. The real issue is I'm getting a monitor. Has anyone tried dropping the probe into the first chamber and seeing if the hand tight will seal with the probe cord there? I would think it is at least plausible that it would. I will probably try and report back, unless someone replies here that I'm an idiot (which I am, but please limit your comments to this idea!)
 
I really dont think it would seal, ostrow. I know you can get them with holes all the way through the hand-tite plug, but they are probably too small for the probe, let alone the BNC connector.
You may want to drill and tap for a cord grip fitting, or at worst cut and re-splice the BNC connector after feeding through an access hole.
 
I would try to simply put it in the plumbing with a JG fitting. It would still read from the first chamber if you install it in that line.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9477294#post9477294 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
I would try to simply put it in the plumbing with a JG fitting. It would still read from the first chamber if you install it in that line.
Click to expand...

Huh? I bought this from another RC-er, didn't build it myself. But I didn't follow that idea at all. How do you "put it in the plumbing with a JG fitting?" I have some fittings, mostly compression fittings. Where would it go and how would it accept a probe?
 
I'm getting air bubbles building up in chamber one, and into the intake of the recirc pump. Chamber 2 gets cloudy when this happens.

Any ideas?

I have video I can send to clarify.....
 
In case anyone is still reading this thread!

Has anyone tried a ball valve or a gate valve instead of the Hand Tite? My second chamber slow leaks out the top. I've tried new Hand Tites, gaskets, silicone grease. You name it. Can't seem to get it to seal all the way. Right now I have the top of the Hand Tite pressing down on a thick 4" o-ring. Dry now but I can fairly well guarantee it will be wet by tomorrow night. The gaskets were thicker and didn't seal it.

So, I was looking around and thought I could get a 4" ball valve, or better, a 4" to 3" reducer and a 3" ball valve. I can find some union ball valves on ebay. Just keep the ball closed, and when I need access unscrew the union.

Any conceivable reason not to do this (aside from the cost?)
 
Ostrow,
For the cost of that Union Ball valve, you could use a 3 or 4" union, and replace the top half of the fitting with a piece of plate. This way it stays low profile too.

Has your rubber plug hardened up over time? Is the fitting that it seals against scratched up? Bummer about your leak.
 
Ummm.... "replace the top half of the fitting with a piece of plate"?????
I could use a plug in that union, too, it occurs to me, no?

I tried a new Hand Tite. NO help. I see no scratches on the inside of the fitting in the reactor, no.

Right now an O-ring on the underside of the Hand Tite lid, pressed onto the flat of the top of the chamber, is holding. I doubt it will long-term though.

I like the idea of a Union -> plug though if it would work.

Interested in what this "plate" is though....
 
You just lose the piece that the plug would glue into (top half), and substitute it for a disc of acrylic. You only use the bottom of the union with the threads and the locknut. No different than using a pvc plug glued in, just lower profile:)
 
Also, not sure if your hand tite is installed in a pvc fitting or not.

I have use similar plugs, but mounted through plate or into a thin ring of acrylic tubing glued to the plate. I allow the plug to protrude past the plate about 3/8" so it can wedge out against the underside of the plate. Any pressure inside the vessel only makes the plug seal harder.
 
Just stole this pic from PBrown3701. Its exactly what I'm talking about , lol

P8031097.jpg
 
That is much better made than the one I have (bought from someone else who built it).

The top of the chamber appears to be 4" coupler over 4" pipe. The tops of the two pieces are smooth. The Hand Tite goes into that. No ability to install a 4 x 4 schedule to drain pipe fitting as I'd hoped as that 4" pipe is already in there. Rats.

So if it leaks my options are limited. I haven't worked with acrylic. I think I might get a reducer bushing, 4" x 2". Those are like $7 at HD. Then I can get a 2" union and plug and be done. Higher profile but I don't care about that. No matter what it won't be clean as in the photo.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11123182#post11123182 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Just stole this pic from PBrown3701. Its exactly what I'm talking about , lol

P8031097.jpg
Click to expand...

I just read this entire thread and then on the last page, i find my own work.....thief :lol:
 
I may be completely screwed. I bought those 4" x 4" pvc to yard drain pipe adapter. It appears to me that the top of my reactor chamber has the acrylic going into a 4" pvc coupler, on the inside of which is glued the drain pipe side of one of these pieces or the equivalent. Meaning, I can't use an adapter to enable the Hand Tite to tighten. I have no idea why it won't seal this.

I think I have to go the union and plug route.

I was thinking of going down to 2" or 3" (any reason not to go smaller?), and then use a union and plug on that. Won't be pretty but it should work, right?

I just hope I can get a fitting inside of there.

Any advice would be most appreciated.
 
Boy oh boy, I really think I'm in trouble.

Water seeping under that o-ring as of this morning.

I went to another HD on the way to work. I'm not sure how I can do anything with this chamber. I still am not 100% sure if the inside piece is just 4"pvc or whether it is the 4" yard drain adapter end. Eithter way, though, because there is a coupler around it the only way I can see to modify the top is to slip something on the INSIDE.

The HD I went to has nothing that will do that. I held the yard drain adapter in my hand, and a 4" x 2" bushing. It appears all fittings have to slip inside of a coupling -- or around the outside pipe.

I hope I am explaining right. I hope somewhere there is a piece that can fit on the inside of 4" pipe that I can glue in, so that I can reduce down.

I still can't fathom why the Hand Tite won't seal it anymore.
 
You shouldnt need to reduce the 4" pvc. I have mine going on for over 3 years now with no problems. A little salt creep does build around the HT plugs but thats over a coarse of a few months. What I did on mine is I took out that square gasket and used silicone instead. Let it cure for a couple of days and should be good to go.
 
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