New In-wall Project Begins

Doug,
I haven't yet. I have a general idea, that's why I started to buy pieces of the plumbing.

Well, I went to pick up my tank this morning and well, here it goes:

Pull up to two 50 ft tractor trailers in the parking lot of a reptile expo and am the third person waiting to pick up their tank, get to the person in charge and tell them who I am and what tank I ordered, checks his paper work and shouts to two guys on the trailer to load the tank into my SUV, watching these two guys start sliding my tank across the trailer bed floor, gets to the edge of the opening of the side door on the trailer bed and a corner gets clipped on a metal jamb, guy in charge shouts to the guys to stop pushing, they continue to give one more push, hear a slight snapping, guy is now screaming at the laborors, I come over in total awe and check the corner, tiny piece of the tank molding is cracked off, I look at the guy in charge with a *WTF* exspression, guy comes over and inspects the damage, shakes his head and ask me to follow him into the expo to speak to Tom from Glass Cages, follow the guy in, guy tells Tom's wife (Beth) what happened and thinks a small chip on the corner edge occured, Beth tells me she's sorry and that it's just asthetic and no structural integrity was compromised, I slowly start to tell her that this is what I pay an $80 pick up fee for?, tells me that she will send Tom out to inspect, tells me she will compensate me $40 for the damage, as I'm about to start venting-Tom walks back in and states that the glass is not chipped-just the molding, I tell him that either way, I think the glass is chipped and why should I pay him full price for a damaged tank, tells me that tank is not damaged and that I agreed to a contract for the tank to be made, I get steamed and tell him that his service is questionable and if he would pay $10k for a Rolex if it had the slightest scratch in the crystal when he went to pick it up at the jeweler.

Long story short, I took the tank home. I made him at least give me the $40 credit (which IMO is a joke) and also refused to pay for the $40 acrylic back piece because he forgot to drill the piece for the two bulkheads that are on the back glass. He ended up just giving the piece to me and credited me another $40.

I probably should have held firm and refused to take delivery. Even though the tank is most likely sound due to the tiny chip and cracked molding, it's the principle. IMO, why should I pay full retail price for an item that they damaged right in front of my eyes, I would never be able to get a "full retail used price" if I were to sell the tank 6 months down the line due to the chip.

After steaming for a little bit, I convinced myself to get over it and start getting excited again about the whole tank thing again.

After an initial inspection of quality, here's my take:
Silicone is still a bit sloppy, excess silicome bulging out of panel seams.
Drilled holes have a bit of chaffing on the inner edges.
Clean even glass joints but the edges are not beveled like a Inter-American tank that I saw.
Skimped out by using glass with slightly chipped corner on one of the panes of the overflow.

Will not suggest Glass Cages to anyone if they think they are receiving a true custom made tank (quality wise).
If you bought their standard 120g tank with nothing added for $230, then this type of build quality would be acceptable. (but not at $580!)

I need to prep, stain and seal the canopy and stand before I start on the tank. I'll keep you updated if anything gets done ahead of time Doug.

How's your project tank going? Did Aquarium Obsessions finalize your order on the tank yet?
 
Tyler - I haven't decided what I will use. I was looking for a good Visio library, but haven't found one yet. I may end up drawing the symbols in AutoCad and just linking them together.

Pecan - I'm very sorry to hear about the problems you had picking up your tank. It makes me nervous to think about shipping a tank from Canada. At least if I get one from Canada it will be fully crated.

I've talked with Will at Obsessed a few times now. I've got the order narrowed down between two builders (Both out of Canada). It sounds like our build permits could be back late this week. I've decided to wait until we get permit approval just to be safe. I don't want to have a tank on order and find out there is a problem with putting it in the wall. It's killing me, but its the safe route... I ran some quick numbers over the weekend. We are already approaching $4K for the room and system. We don't even have water or build permits for that matter! Perhaps we should buy a 2.5g gold fish tank and take a vacation instead...
 
dougchambers said:
We are already approaching $4K for the room and system. We don't even have water or build permits for that matter!

$4k? You're just getting started, my friend. :D

I've already topped 7, and I still need to order lighting, calcium reactor, and some miscellaneous odds and ends. And oh yeah, my tank isn't here yet either.... ;)
 
Fortunately, we are going to use the same lighting we have over our 75g. I'd like to replace the open ended reflectors with pendant style, but that's another $200... That reminds me, I need to add more rock to the equation. It never stops!

I started the closed loop schematic in Visio last night. Looks pretty good so far.

-Doug
 
Doug,
I was considering going to pendants also, but it seems like the pendant enclosure focuses the light in a more narrow path high up and then spreads very weakly afterwards.
If I didn't have my SE/magnetic ballast to swap over, I would then try out DE/Ice Caps for power & size efficency but just upgrading to a SE pendant to house my bulbs didn't seem like a worth while upgrade.
 
Pecan,

I like the looks of this one with the integrated fan;

pendant%20large.gif


I looked at the ones someone mentioned earlier for growing pot, but they are HUGE! I'd need a bigger tank. It would be nice to leave the current reflectors in our hood when we sell it...
 
Doug,
Who manufactures those?
One thing good about pendants is that you do not loose the light from the open ends of a unenclosed reflector.

Make sure those fixtures a re aluminum or they will slowly start to show surface rust. I know when I was contemplating DE pendants, the Reef Optics had a better reflector but the housing was powdercoated steel and starts to show surface rust on a few local reefer's setups. They all told me to go with the PFOs, reflectors might not be as good but the housing is aluminum.

Since your upgrading to pendants, have you considered double ended fixtures with electronic ballasts?
 
Pecan,

The pendants are by CoralVue. Good point on the finish. I will check with David and report back. I thought about switching over to DE, but was reluctant simply because I have enough new CV 10,000K bulbs for the next 20 months. I would need to make sure my CV electronic balasts would burn the DE bulbs.

I liked the look of these pendants because they have a fan integrated in to the case. I may end up using my existing reflectors, but I will need to find a way to cap the ends or build a mini hood.

-Doug
 
Started the diagram for the closed loop. Here is the rough overview. The diagram doesn't have all of the male adapters and fittings, but you can get the idea.

Any thoughts?

137closedloop_concept.jpg
 
Nice Doug!
I was going to wye the two 1.5" drains from the CL but using a T in the back could save another 8" of vertical space. Thanks for the idea!
Are you going to incorporate an additional union ball valve right before the inlet of the Seq for easy removal of the pump?

Any new thoughts on your sump return?
 
Pecan,

Might not be a bad idea for another ball valve before the pump. In the current configuration, I can close the valves at the bottom of the tank and the gate valve on the output of the pump. The 2" unions will make it easy to remove the pump.

It kind of depends on how much plumbing I want to stack together.

Are you going with mostly threaded or socket components? Socket is nice and clean, but isn't forgiving if I need to move things.

I haven't decided on the sump return. In need to start the design for the sump and plumbing. What are you going to use for your sump? Is it going under the stand or elsewhere?

-Doug
 
Doug,
I figure an additional union ball valve at the inlet would reduce the amount of water that is discharged from the drain ball valves. Dual 1.5" hoses can hold a nice spill. :D

The only threaded parts would be the male adapters from the bulkheads and pump in/outlets, slip fitted to union ends on my part. Using threaded ball valves or unions would mean I would need to incorporate nipples. I plan to slip fit with short pieces of spa-flex to give some flexibility to the line. But your right, it is not forgiving at all and if the connecting pipe or spa-flex is too short, well the connected pieces would not be reusable if changes were needed. With nipples & threaded fittings, my lines would be too rigid since I really do not have much vertical space at all.

I'm confined to a in-stand sump due to my tanks in the basement. (wife wasn't too keen on a large polycarbonate container sitting next to the tank) I thought about running spa-flex and setting up a remote sump in the laundry room but there is not enough vertical space to achieve a gradient drop due to the laundry room being on the opposite side of the room.
Hence, (sigh) I will be just eeking by with a 30g long sump. (another reason why I chose to tee of the pump and reduce the amount of flow through from the Amp2100.
The sump will just be set up with two berlin sock filter mounts, then skimmer, then 3 baffles and a 1.5" bulkhead to the Amp2100. Not sure if I will incorporate a separate gravity fed refugium yet.
 
Started looking for a return pump. The PanWorld and BlueLine pumps look pretty good. I like the PW50PX-X 1110gpm 90W pump ($139.90) and the PW100PX-X 1270gpm 130W pump (164.90). I need to do some more research on quality and performance for these pumps.

Another option is the Gen-X series. The MAK4 @ 1190gpm should be adequate at ~$129. Again, we need to do some more research.

I've heard a lot of good things about the Titanium T4 series pumps also. Supposed to be very quiet, but known to add ~3-4Ã"šÃ‚° to the tank. I like the size, but not the heat loading so we may stay away from the T4.

Any others we should be considering? I know Pecan ordered an Ampmaster...

-Doug
 
Doug,
Are you only returning via one 3/4" Sea-Swirl?
If so, you won't need a very powerful pump unless your returning the water via the basement.

PanWorld was definitely a consideration if I was only returning via the 2 Sea-Swirls and not tee'ing off to the skimmer.

Those specs you have listed is in gph? If not, then that's some powerful pump at 66,600 gph & 76,200 gph :D
 
Hey Doug,
Just a FWIW on ball valves.
I received my shipment of assorted plumbing parts from Savko this evening and I am very pleased with the single union ball valves.
Home Depot does not sell union ball valves so no real comparison but Lowes does and the ones from Savko are slimmer in design but the part that I really likes was the valve action. Smooth as butter compared to the slip/threaded ones from Home Depot and the union ones from Lowes. Those were so tight that I imagined cracking something when trying to open or close these 1.5" ball valves.
 
Lowes sells the singles and double union ball values.

The thing I did NOT like about the single union ball values is that they required your to "pull" them apart. You need to be able to move the pipes about one inch apart.

The double unions required zero pipe movement. Just unscrew and slide out.
 
That's another reason why I love these ball valves that I just got. As Fursphere stated, the single union ball valves from Lowes need clearance to pull apart, the single union ball valves that I got from Savko are just unscrew and pull apart.

They are Swiss made GF valves, I know their ball check valves are pretty pricey.
 
Hey Pecan,

Is this the valve you ordered?

su.jpg


It was almost like Christmas today... I picked up our 500# of Tropical Play sand and got the Sequence pump.

The pump looks good. Nice and compact IHMO. No real indicator that it has SW seals other than the invoice and a sharpie mark on the box.
 
Yes Doug, those are the GF ball valves that Savko is selling. They turn like butter vs me standing on the one's from Lowes and twisting with two hands! :lol:

I had to cut access holes in the back of the stand last night. Who ever heard of a pre-made stand with a full back from 3/4" plywood. :confused:
Started the sanding, pre-staining and finished the stain with just one coat. The vermont maple was a little too red for my taste so just one coat will do. Was able to get the first of three coats of poly acrylic on tonight. Might actually be finished by the end of this week.

My OM is due here tomorrow, AM2100 & Sea-Swirls on Thursday and Reeflo next Monday. :)
 
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