New In-wall Project Begins

[dougchambers]

We should break ground in the next few weeks on the new house with an in-wall tank. I thought I would kick off a thread to chronicle the process and gain knowledge from those that have gone through the experience.

The tank will be faced into our living room. The back side will be a separate room that is the 4th bay of the garage. The bay will be walled off and sealed from the rest of the garage with a separate window, exhaust fan, sink rough-in, and two (2) separate 20Amp breakers. The builder will provide a framed and finished opening that is 49ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ x 25.25ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ at 42ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ off the floor. We will trim the opening around the tank to match the rest of the woodwork in the room. We will also be building the supporting structure for the tank

The tank is currently slated to be a euro-braced 48x24x24ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ Lee Mar with a low iron polished float-glass. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve attached a drawing below with conceptual design. Here are some of the details so far;

120g Lee Mar Tank
- Single Overflow
- Euro Bracing
Closed Loop
- Sequence 4200SEQ12 or Reeflo series pump
- OceansMotions 4-Way (Magnetic Drive)
- Two (2) 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ drains through bottom of tank
- Two (2) 1.5ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ returns through bottom of tank (Split with LocLines)
- Two (2) 1.5ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ returns over the top of tank (Split with LocLines)
Live Rock/DSB (Considering SSB in Display and DSB in Refugium)
Rubbermaid Stock tank for refugium and sump
- Return pump is yet to be determined (Return will be through a SeaSwirl)
Euroreef CS6-1 Skimmer
Lighting
- Two (2) CoralVue 250W SE 10,000K MH on CoralVue e-Ballasts
- Four or Six (4-6) URI VHO. (Minimum of 4ea 110W URI Actinic on IceCap Ballasts)
AirWaterIce DI/RO water maker

We are still in the equipment planning stages. Getting the tank is more of an ordeal than we thought it would be, but we should be able to make it happen. I had originally planned on an AmpMaster 3000 (AmpEater depending on who you ask), but have read more favorable feedback on the Sequence pumps. The 4200SEQ12 looks good for the price point with saltwater seals installed.

Any thoughts on changes to the layout or configuration we should consider?

We plan to update this thread through the construction and assembly phases. Let me know if there is anything specific you want to see.

-Doug

 

[dougchambers]

After looking at the layout a little closer, the first change will be to move the two (2) return bulkheads closer to the back wall. At the middle of the tank they will limit some of the beach real-estate up front.

-DC

 

[LittleBlueGT]

I know I gave a pm on the later, but I though I would post this here for all to benefit from.

Consider getting the pumps from custom aquatic, and getting them to match the price. Sequence has two saltwater seals, make sure you get the better (more expensive one).!

 

[dougchambers]

Thanks for the information on the Sequence pumps. I wasn't aware that there were two different types of Salt Water seals. I will give them a call!

-Doug

 

[curthendrix]

Doug,

I am building an inwall tank also so I hope you don't mind if I tag along. Some Questions: Can you go bigger than a 120g? Why two 2" drains...seems like a lot of capacity for a 120g? How are you configuring the drains......up to the surface...or down in the tank..if down in the tank, what about power failures and flooding? I would also put the drains in the rear of the tank or extend the tank 5" or so and put an overflow box down one side..this would keep your display area clear of any visible boxes or drains.

 

[Fursphere]

Re: New In-wall Project Begins

I had originally planned on an AmpMaster 3000 (AmpEater depending on who you ask), but have read more favorable feedback on the Sequence pumps. The 4200SEQ12 looks good for the price point with saltwater seals installed.

AmpEater? I dunno about that. When you compare them to Iwakis (my original choice) they use like 1/3 the power!

Anyway, for inwall ideas, check out my (horrible) website. click the "little red house". I just got my in wall setup up and running recently.

 

[chadhender]

I have a 120 inwall setup... i Love IT BUT I SUGGEST GETTING a longer tank. You will wish it was longer once you get it going.

 

[LittleBlueGT]

You will always want to go bigger. If you have the room now and the money (or shall we say credit) go for something a little bigger, and deeper.

How about 72 x 30 X 24?

I would love to have 30 inches of front to back depth.

 

[Fursphere]

bigger is better, unless you've got short arms.

 

[dougchambers]

Curt et. al.,

The 2" drains are strictly for a closed loop so a power outage won't be a problem. The Sequence pump we are looking at has a 2" inlet so we will feed it with a pair of 2" drains to split the drain velocity between the two ports. Two ports will also create redundancy if one gets partially blocked. The plan is to use a strainer over each drain and stack rocks around it to hide the pipe. Most of our circulation will be through the closed loop to minimize overflow noise and salt creep.

I would LOVE to go bigger, but the wall we are putting the tank on looks best with the 48x24. I tried! Honest! I had the wife and kids in the model home for hours with blue tape and a tape measure blocking out the wall. I've had pretty big reservations about all the work that will be involved for the plumbing, separate room, ventilation, tank cost, etc. for only a 120g tank. But in the end, it will be a nice upgrade over our 75 and it will look incredible in the wall. A 30" deep sounds interesting though...

 

[curthendrix]

I would definately go as deep as you can. I'm going 44" deep on my inwall......if you have ever seen a deep, properly aquascaped inwall you'll know why. Might look at Steve Weast inwall at oregonreef.com. Although his tank is a whopping 90" deep, it will give you some sense of what a deep inwall can look like! Have you thought about building the tank 6" or so longer than your viewing opening (3" on each side) and hiding your overflow, powerheads, or even a wavebox there. That way you still maintain the asthetics of the wall but get the benefit of a longer tank and can hide equipment, overflows, etc. Keep us updated!!

 

[LittleBlueGT]

Go deeper! Many an artist has recorded songs with that intent.

I think 30 inches gives much more flexibility then 24. Of course 44 would be awesome.

 

[dougchambers]

You guys are killing me! I'll draw a new one up a little deeper and see how it looks. At least 30" sounds pretty good, but it may be a push. But then again, whats a few more bags of sand, some extra rock, and more water? On the other hand, 30" may be a push for my two (2) 250W MH for coverage. I plan to put VHO on either side of the MH, but may not get good coverage. I'll see how it looks...

Thanks guys,

Doug

 

[curthendrix]

Doug,

We love spending your money!! If your running SE bulbs, look at the lumenarc reflectors....relatively inexpensive and will give you the 30" light spread your looking for!! You realize this thread is going to end up costing you money..right?

 

[pecan2phat]

Hey Doug,
Also tagging along.
I'm getting ready to order a 120g from glass cages and also am doing the euro-brace and starphire/low iron glass upgrade but for the front and sides since my setup will be free standing.
Please don't think of me as hijacking your thread, just wanted some of your suggestions and advice. (I posted a thread but got no answers)
I asked for two overflows covered in black acylic but away from the side corners sort of like what the 120g AGA megaflow tank looks like, do you think that 2 overflows are overkill?
I also asked them to drill 1.25" bulkheads in the overflows to house some dursos and reduce them to 1" flex piping into my sump. (reason is that I will utilize these berlin acrylic mount sock holders) The return flow will be an Iwaki or Blueline that will pump about 1200gph split into two 3/4" Sea Swirls. Do you think that these bulkhead sizes are okay for the return?
I also told them that I would need three additional holes drilled for a closed loop (1 drain & 2 returns) but don't know where I should have them drilled. Do you think that the bottom is better than say the back wall? How do the OMs mount? Are they on a PVC pipe through a bottom bulkhead and at whatever height you deem?

Thanks.

 

[dougchambers]

I've seen 120g tanks with one and two overflows. Personally, I'm going with one overflow because the bulk of our circulation will be from the closed loop.

If you use a closed loop, you can put drains and returns in the bottom of the tank. If you are using holes in the bottom for an open loop drain, I wouldn't recommend it. Worst case is a big puddle of water and an empty tank.

I think the 1.5" Bulkheads should be fine for your proposal.

The OceanMotions devices mount a number of ways. Hit their website at www.oceansmotions.com and take a look at their examples.

You aren't hijacking... This is what these threads are for in my opinion. Let's all figure it out together...

-Doug

 

[pecan2phat]

Thanks Doug.
I checked out the website and now understand how these devices mount.
So basically your using a OM 4-way and having the intake come in through two 2" drain bulkheads drilled on the bottom glass then Y'd to a 2" intake of your pump and then having two of the returns come back via overhead of the tank surface and the other two returns are going to be returned via 1.5" bulkheads drilled on the bottom glass, all using loc-lines to split the flow.
How high or low are you placing the loc-lines after the bulkheads on the bottom glass?
Have you thought about using the revolution attachments for the overhead returns?
Didn't see on the website what flow the 4-way could handle, what's the gph on the Sequence that you are planning to use? Thanks.

 

[Fursphere]

Doug -

If you look in the "large tanks forum" you'll see a thread called "260 inwall design" (my thread). You'll notice it says 300 gallon in my tag line... the guys here at RC talked my out of a 26" wide tank, and into a 30" wide tank, which meant more wall demolition to me, and lots more work.

I wouldn't trade it for the world now. Well, maybe for a 36" wide tank...

30" deep is nice too. The tank *really* looks huge being this deep...

 

[Fursphere]

Doug,
Why two 2" drains...seems like a lot of capacity for a 120g? or drains.

I know this isn't my thread, but I'll chime in here.

I've got two 2" drains as well. 1 drain can handle 2000+ GPH easy (I've tested it). So I've two incase one gets clogged. And my sump is WAY oversized, so I don't have to worry about a flood. I.E. - normally running, my sump runs about 70 gallons (including the 40 gallon fuge built into it). Total capacity is 140 gallons. The tank run off (pump off, drains down to the bottom of the overflows) is about 30 gallons. That gives me about 40 gallons of "buffer" room. Never hurts to plan for the worst...

Building the tank "into the wall" made me think of lots of thinkg like "if it floods, its not only going to get the carpet wet, but its going to damage the drywall too". Overbuilding the setup was the only option, since saving the house from destruction was also a concern....

Just my $0.02.

 

[pecan2phat]

Doug,
Revising your tank dimension to 30" in depth only adds on 30 gallons in volume

On your drawing with the 1/2" Sea-Swirl, you'll limit yourself to about 550 gph on the return, maybe go up to a 3/4" Sea-Swirl?