New In-wall Project Begins

The picture makes it look very compressed. I promise it's really 30" deep.

We just received a replacement CoralVue bulb for the right side. Notice how dim the right is from the left. I'll see if this helps.
 
Oh. My. God. There's sand in there. That's it, I'm out of here. :sad1:








;)

Looks very nice. The tank is very well placed in the room.

All in all I think the aquascaping is pretty decent. Are you going predominantly SPS? It looks like you'd have plenty of room for growth in the top. Maybe varying the height of the stack on the right would make the composition a little better. Also, you may want to break up the space in the front cavity with some sort of low projection to one side or the other.

Looks good!
Now about that sand.... ;)
 
Thanks Hozer! We did some more aquascaping and created a couple ledges for more frags. I'm supposed to pick up new trim stock for the surround of the tank this week. I didn't like how it turned out so the cabinet builder is running more stock for me and I will do it over.

Cranked up the flow a little more on the closed loop Saturday. It's amazing how different corals are reacting. We have a millipora that is fuzzy as can be in a buddy's tank and I never understood why it didn't look as good in my system. Especially since I gave him the frag! In our new tank with greater flow, it has become much fuzzier.

-Doug
 
Doug

I am contemplating setting up something similar in the basement. If you can help me with some questions I would be most appreciative.

How is the humidity in your fishroom? What is the current venting system and are you happy with it? How hot does it get? Did you use any waterproofing paint on the dry wall?

Sorry if you discussed these issues before, but I skimmed through the entire thread and didnt pick up on it.

Henry
 
Hi Henry,

HOZERTHEBONEFISH said:
Doug

I am contemplating setting up something similar in the basement. If you can help me with some questions I would be most appreciative.

How is the humidity in your fishroom?
Right now the humidity is very low. It's been hot here today at about 95Ã"šÃ‚°F. The room right now is 85.6Ã"šÃ‚°F, the tank is 81.9Ã"šÃ‚°F (Chiller about to kick on) and the humidity is a VERY dry 29%.


What is the current venting system and are you happy with it? How hot does it get?
Right now the venting is via a cracked door to the garage to exhaust the chiller, a large CFM fan in the ceiling on a timer (4X/day), and cool air fed by the house central vac. The central vac is mostly closed right now, but I can crank it up once I get the chiller vented outside. I also have a window in the reef room if I need to move a lot of air out quickly. If I were to do it again, I would get the Luminarc reflectors with the integrated vent port and vent them outside.
Did you use any waterproofing paint on the dry wall?
I didn't. I had the room rocked in green board and shot a heavy coat of PVA primer and two sprayed/back-rolled color coats.
Sorry if you discussed these issues before, but I skimmed through the entire thread and didnt pick up on it.
Any time! Let me know if there is anything else I can answer.
 
Doug,

I didn't mention it before, but WOW does that external overflow look great! I can hardly notice it in the tank at all! When it comes time for my next tank I'll definitely have to look into doing an external overflow like that.

Later,
Tyler
 
Thanks Tyler. I have to say, the external overflow is one of the best parts to this tank. I love having the extra space in the tank. I was a little concerned about the stress points on the back wall where the notches are, but Derek and the boys put a nice big radius on each corner and tied it all together with the eurobrace on the top.

The other thing I really like about this design is the two 2" drains in the bottom for the closed loop. The risers act as supports for the rock to create a nice open flow.

I'm still playing with the rock placement, but its coming around.

-Doug
 
dougchambers said:
Thanks Tyler. I have to say, the external overflow is one of the best parts to this tank. I love having the extra space in the tank. I was a little concerned about the stress points on the back wall where the notches are, but Derek and the boys put a nice big radius on each corner and tied it all together with the eurobrace on the top.

The other thing I really like about this design is the two 2" drains in the bottom for the closed loop. The risers act as supports for the rock to create a nice open flow.

I'm still playing with the rock placement, but its coming around.

-Doug

I'm so glad I went with 28" front to back; otherwise my tank would be way too narrow in front of the overflow (7" deep)... But it's still a challenge with the overflow tanking up takn space...

Looks like they did a top notch job. I didn't end up really getting all that non-standard of a tank in the end; the builder I used in my area doesn't do a lot of SPS reef tanks and as such was very leary of drilling holes and anything like that. I think I'll go with someone like Miracles next time; they seem to do top notch work.

Hey, nice; good to be able to hide the drains like that with all the rocks. I presume you're going to keep the back of the rock structure pretty open then? I'm still finalizing my closed loop manifolds and all that but I plan on hiding things pretty well too.

How do you find your sand is with all the flow? Does it want to blow around a lot or has it stabilized? I'm just curious because I'm going a SSB and I have a Dart on my closed loop, so plenty of flow.

I'm sure you mentioned it already previously, but how many outlets are there from your closed loop again? There's the 2 x 2" inlets, and I think there was 2 x 1.5" return bulkheads, tee'd off to make 4 x 1.5" outlets, right? Or something like that at least... :)

Later,
Tyler
 
tgunn said:
I'm so glad I went with 28" front to back; otherwise my tank would be way too narrow in front of the overflow (7" deep)... But it's still a challenge with the overflow tanking up takn space...

Looks like they did a top notch job. I didn't end up really getting all that non-standard of a tank in the end; the builder I used in my area doesn't do a lot of SPS reef tanks and as such was very leary of drilling holes and anything like that. I think I'll go with someone like Miracles next time; they seem to do top notch work.
Hey Tyler,

We planned on going with a 24" front-to-back depth, but at the urging of others here, we pushed out to 30". We've been very happy with the tank so far. I've to say though, I'm still a little leary on drilled holes in the bottom of the tank...

Hey, nice; good to be able to hide the drains like that with all the rocks. I presume you're going to keep the back of the rock structure pretty open then? I'm still finalizing my closed loop manifolds and all that but I plan on hiding things pretty well too.

How do you find your sand is with all the flow? Does it want to blow around a lot or has it stabilized? I'm just curious because I'm going a SSB and I have a Dart on my closed loop, so plenty of flow.

I'm sure you mentioned it already previously, but how many outlets are there from your closed loop again? There's the 2 x 2" inlets, and I think there was 2 x 1.5" return bulkheads, tee'd off to make 4 x 1.5" outlets, right? Or something like that at least... :)
We are running a full DSB for now. Initially we struggled with the new Southdown sand because it was blowing EVERYWHERE. Things finally settled down and we have a lot of flow. Our closed loop pulls from two 2" drains through the bottom of the tank and floods the inlet to a Sequence 4200SEQ12. From there we go into a gate valve for flow control and out to an OM 4-way. Two 1.5" drains come back up through the bottom of the tank and tee just above the sand level into a 90Ã"šÃ‚° and 45Ã"šÃ‚° black PVC fitting. Two additional 1.5" returns come over the top of the tank at the front in opposite corners. The ones in/under the rock structure makes for some nice flow down low without blasting everything. The returns alternate from top to bottom and left to right so we get a constant swirling action.

One other thing we did was have Paul modify a drum for us on the OM 4-way. He turned it down through the middle to allow some blow by and keep the sand out of the drum during the first few months of settling the sand. I've only had to tear down the 4-way once and it was because I forgot to turn it off when I was moving lots of rock around.

The sump return comes from a GenX 55HP that splits into two 1.5" black PVC drops over the back of the tank.
 
NexDog - They are a good 4-5" before the strainer starts. The strainer adds about another 3-4".

I'll see if I can find the first pictures during the wet test.

-Doug
 
Not sure if I understand that correctly. Maybe I'm not understanding how you have it plumbed. My planned tank is 30" tall and I'm planning on drilling 8x1.5" outlets in the middle or 15" off the bottom. I'm just wondering if that is high enough not to disturb sand and cause a sandstorm.
 
dougchambers said:
Hey Tyler,

We planned on going with a 24" front-to-back depth, but at the urging of others here, we pushed out to 30". We've been very happy with the tank so far. I've to say though, I'm still a little leary on drilled holes in the bottom of the tank...

We are running a full DSB for now. Initially we struggled with the new Southdown sand because it was blowing EVERYWHERE. Things finally settled down and we have a lot of flow. Our closed loop pulls from two 2" drains through the bottom of the tank and floods the inlet to a Sequence 4200SEQ12. From there we go into a gate valve for flow control and out to an OM 4-way. Two 1.5" drains come back up through the bottom of the tank and tee just above the sand level into a 90Ã"šÃ‚° and 45Ã"šÃ‚° black PVC fitting. Two additional 1.5" returns come over the top of the tank at the front in opposite corners. The ones in/under the rock structure makes for some nice flow down low without blasting everything. The returns alternate from top to bottom and left to right so we get a constant swirling action.

One other thing we did was have Paul modify a drum for us on the OM 4-way. He turned it down through the middle to allow some blow by and keep the sand out of the drum during the first few months of settling the sand. I've only had to tear down the 4-way once and it was because I forgot to turn it off when I was moving lots of rock around.

The sump return comes from a GenX 55HP that splits into two 1.5" black PVC drops over the back of the tank.

Ah, okay, that makes sense. I was curious if you had left the outlets at 1.5" or had dropped to 1" or smaller. Sounds like you probably get very strong diffuse flow with the full 1.5" outlets though...

I'm impressed with my Dart's 3600 GPH; the 4200 GPH on your pump must give it that little bit more "edge".

Running a full DSB "for now"? Not planning on staying with a DSB? I do like the look of a DSB (so many interesting creatures poking around in it) but wasn't willing to give up the viewing space for it. A SSB was my compromise.

Good point on the 4-way; I'll remember to be careful about getting sand in it. I probably won't be setting one up until my tank's a bit more established though. I'm getting anxious to get things running as it is. :lol:

I have a feeling I should've went for a PCX 55 or something similar for my return pump. I've got a Seq 5000SEQ22; it can push about 3000 GPH at the head pressure I'm looking at... I had originally thought to use it to power my skimmer as well, but in the end I got my Mak4 working... Got a feeling I'll have to dial that one back. :)

Later,
Tyler
 
NexDog said:
Not sure if I understand that correctly. Maybe I'm not understanding how you have it plumbed. My planned tank is 30" tall and I'm planning on drilling 8x1.5" outlets in the middle or 15" off the bottom. I'm just wondering if that is high enough not to disturb sand and cause a sandstorm.
NexDog,

My mistake... I misunderstood you. The two outlets coming through the bottom of the tank are just above the sand level but are pointed up through the rocks. I have one return branch that bounces off a side wall and gives a great wave effect.

The two outlets coming from overhead are just under the surface of the water but enter the tank with black 45Ã"šÃ‚° PVC pieces so I can direct them at the rock and corals.

Originally posted by tgunn
Ah, okay, that makes sense. I was curious if you had left the outlets at 1.5" or had dropped to 1" or smaller. Sounds like you probably get very strong diffuse flow with the full 1.5" outlets though...

I'm impressed with my Dart's 3600 GPH; the 4200 GPH on your pump must give it that little bit more "edge".

Running a full DSB "for now"? Not planning on staying with a DSB? I do like the look of a DSB (so many interesting creatures poking around in it) but wasn't willing to give up the viewing space for it. A SSB was my compromise.

Good point on the 4-way; I'll remember to be careful about getting sand in it. I probably won't be setting one up until my tank's a bit more established though. I'm getting anxious to get things running as it is.

I have a feeling I should've went for a PCX 55 or something similar for my return pump. I've got a Seq 5000SEQ22; it can push about 3000 GPH at the head pressure I'm looking at... I had originally thought to use it to power my skimmer as well, but in the end I got my Mak4 working... Got a feeling I'll have to dial that one back.

That's a lot of pump for your return. When designing our system, I wanted to reduce the dependancy for flow from the return loop so we targetted a big closed loop. The PCX55s are working great. We have one for our MR3 and one for the return. There is enough overhead on the return line to feed the chiller also.

One note of caution on the OM4-way. Teflon tape is your friend! We cracked the body of ours (At no fault of Oceans Motions - in fact Paul and Cassie were awesome help in getting us back up and running! IMHO their service is outstanding.). I simply pushed too far with a 1.5" male street elbow to get that last 20Ã"šÃ‚° of rotation.

-Doug
 

That's a lot of pump for your return. When designing our system, I wanted to reduce the dependancy for flow from the return loop so we targetted a big closed loop. The PCX55s are working great. We have one for our MR3 and one for the return. There is enough overhead on the return line to feed the chiller also.

I bought the pump way back when it was on sale on Custom Aquatics. At that time the plan was that I'd drive some of the flow through the skimmer and end up with around 1200 GPH total return to and from the sump.

However, once I repaired the Mak4 I figured to use that instead.

I think perhaps I'll have to plumb such that I can test the skimmer/return on one pump and see how it works....

I've been using Teflon paste for all my threaded connections; I hand turn nice and tight and so far no problems at all. The paste lubricates the threads very nicely and it seems to hold nice and tight..

Thanks,
Tyler
 
Tyler - Good thought on the Teflon paste. I'll have to try that instead of the tape. I think I used ~10 rolls of tape for this project alone.

One advantage to using the bigger pump for the skimmer and return is that you have one less thing to plug in and spin the meter.

-Doug
 
dougchambers said:
Tyler - Good thought on the Teflon paste. I'll have to try that instead of the tape. I think I used ~10 rolls of tape for this project alone.

One advantage to using the bigger pump for the skimmer and return is that you have one less thing to plug in and spin the meter.

-Doug

I definitely recommend the teflon paste. It's not expensive at all and every single threaded connection I've made was 100% leak free from the get-go...

Yes, that's true enough; a single pump means less power to run. Definitely an advantage there. Guess I'll forge ahead and plumb in the skimmer off my large sequence and see how it goes. Worse case I can use the Mak4...

Tyler
 
Hey Doug, I can't recall, did you use Dursos in your overflow? How much flow are you sending through there?

I'm running into some problems tuning my double dursos; they both make a gurgling sound, and the sound of water splashing into the 2" drain line is pretty loud (sounds like water flushing down my plumbing stack when I flush the toilet)...

Later,
Tyler
 
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