New Lumen Bright Reflector. ... any info on them

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I think it is important for me to reiterate that keeping coral under 400w bulbs and LumenBrights is much different than what reefkeepers have seen in the past. These reflectors obviously emit a lot of PAR as evidenced in this thread by the numerous reefkeepers that have contributed data.

You have to be careful when using 400w bulbs. No joke. I really don't want to recommend 400w bulbs to anyone because I don't want to be responsible for people bleaching their coral. You must be experienced enough to understand and be able to diagnose problems with your coral. Also, just because you have 400w bulbs over your tank and your corals bleach does not mean the 400w bulb is directly responsible. Without proper flow, stable water perameters, nutrition for your coral(I mean food - real food that they will accept), it is going to be very difficult to save your coral especially with the added stress of excessive illumination in 400w bulbs. Everyone thinks more is better and this is not always the case. You need to get your basic reefkeeping skills down and keep a stable system before trying your luck at some intense lighting.

Ok, I said my peace. Now, here again is a shot of a tank by an experienced reefkeeper that is clearly thriving. This is a mixed reef with softies, LPS , and SPS running 5 -400w 12K Reeflux bulbs("like swimmign on a reef on a sunny day"). Notice the several SPS pieces very close to the surface of the water. I have witnessed the most amazing growth and color in this particular section of the tank directly under this 400w bulb. Clearly these coral are not ready to die. This is a 30" deep tank.

Careful placement of coral is key to making sure your coral thrive. If you are unable to diagnose whether your coral is getting excessive light/flow or not enough light/flow, it will be extrememly difficult to obtain optimal growth and color. I still have a lot to learn in this area as well, but have experienced people around me to help me diagnose potential problems.

MikeL500g1117-1.jpg


Pretty soon here I will be heading back over to see this beautiful tank. It has been several months and from what I hear the growth is out of control. We are talking about a few months here. :eek2: A perfect example of accelerated growth and color due to optimal conditions.

Now as far as anyone considering 400w bulbs under LB's. Well, I would first recommend dimmable ballasts as this will best help you acclimate your coral by easily being able to turn down your bulbs at the first signs of stress. Second, I would make sure you have enough room for these reflectors to be able to raise them from 16" to 18" bulb to water to accomodate for coral growth. If you are running 20K's you my be able to get away with 14"-16". The more room the better. I still don't want to recommend 400watters to anyone, but if you are going to do it anyway, just be careful ;) Again most reefkeepers will do just fine with 250w bulbs. This is another plus for LumenBrights as reefkeepers that used to be caught between deciding whether they should go with 250w bulbs or 400w bulbs can rest assure that 250w bulbs will put out ample PAR for expected growth as the PAR numbers speak for themselves.
 
Marc

I have looked at your tank as I read you have 250watt SE bulbs. Do you have SPS that sit lower in your tank or are they higher up would you say?
 
I guess the concern I have is the corals that would be closer to the bottom of the tank or clams sitting on the bottom of the tank, getting enough light from a 250watt LB hanging 14" off the water surface.

Thats nearly 46" difference between the bulb and tank bottom.
 
Jims back... again. Jim you will be in for a treat. After seeing that old pic, and the way the same tank looks a few months later is simply amazing. When are you going to make it back out my way to get some new shots? The tank should be fully grown in about 8 months. I am getting awsome growth, even the stags at the bottom of my tank. Have you done your tests yet on the life of the Reeflux bulbs like we talked about last?
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12193477#post12193477 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wfgworks
Marc

I have looked at your tank as I read you have 250watt SE bulbs. Do you have SPS that sit lower in your tank or are they higher up would you say?

Here's a picture from 3/18/08:
fts_031808.jpg


Some SPS is down on the sand, but most of it is on the rockwork midway up and higher. A few pieces are almost down on the sand, and have been for a long time, as has my clam.

td_lokani.jpg


td_max_clown.jpg


I currently have some temporary LuminBrites (balanced on my old light rack) over my tank...

new_lb_front.jpg


new_lb_canopy.jpg



... but the 'real' ones arrive tomorrow or Saturday. I bought some from www.reefspecialty.com that have glass shields instead. Gotta support our RC sponsors. :D

The ones I've been using for the past couple of days are already sold to a DFWMAS member.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12193484#post12193484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wfgworks
I guess the concern I have is the corals that would be closer to the bottom of the tank or clams sitting on the bottom of the tank, getting enough light from a 250watt LB hanging 14" off the water surface.

Thats nearly 46" difference between the bulb and tank bottom.

Then this will blow you away. Dirty used bulbs, dirty SPIDER reflectors:

par_values_0321_old_bulbs.jpg


And somehow my reef has lived under this lighting for 3.5 years.
 
Hey Jeremy,

Good to be back. I have a little more time now as things have kind of calmed down for me. I started a new job and have been getting my feet wet there, so I apologize for being AWOL for so long. I am also getting married in Hawaii this June and have been planning that out as well.

Because I was so busy I had not had a chance to perform that test like I had planned. I also had a good friend borrowing the meter for a couple months, so I did not have it to use. I will most likely continue that test when I replace my bulbs next. I will definitely have some new numbers and an updated pic for everyone in the near future.

Let me know when you want me over and I can certainly take some new pics for you. I can't wait to see Mike's tank again as I know how he grows coral and I can't imagine what I am about to see. It is always surprising when comign back even after two weeks from my last visit. I have been in this hobby a long time and have never met anyone that grows coral as quickly and as colorful as Mike.

Sorry to embarrass you Mike, but it is the truth. Something I definitely admire.

I am planning on doing some new testing of different light sources including VHO's,PC's, MH's, and T5's in a more controlled environment with fijiblue. It may be a while before it comes out. I can say this though, we are both determined to get some concrete results of what different light sources can do.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12193635#post12193635 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Then this will blow you away. Dirty used bulbs, dirty SPIDER reflectors:

par_values_0321_old_bulbs.jpg


And somehow my reef has lived under this lighting for 3.5 years.

I hear you Marc and I agree that intense lighting is not required to maintain corals. Their is a definite distinction between maintaining and thriving. This brings me to something I have wanted to discuss here, so thanks for the lead in;)

I do believe the numbers you were showing under Spider Reflectors are representative of many tanks in the hobby today. Light is not everything when it comes to growth as I stated in my last short novel. I think people should understand that many LFS's are also in the same boat and are maintaining coral at lower light levels than what people should expect form LumenBrights. Due to this people have to recognize that placement of your coral should not mimic the majority of tanks that coral is purchased out of including places like DR. Fosters & Smiths that I beleive keep their coral under 400w 20K bulbs and Lumenarc reflectors. Placing that same coral under a 400w 10K bulb in a LumenBright can be very stressful to an acclimating coral as an extreme example. I know there are reefkeepers out there that have succombed to this problem by thinking their coral is alright for a couple weeks only to come home that next day to a bleached coral. It was just a matter of time. Lately, I have been bringing my meter to local LFS's to measure the amount of light received by a specific coral that I would like to purchase so I can best acclimate that coral to my home reef. I still drop my photoperiod to further acclimate the coral and to not induce unwanted stress which may possibly stunt growth and fade color.

Sure we can maintain coral under lighting that is not so intense, but I think it is important to note that their is plenty of anecdotal evidence here of reefkeepers pushing the boundaries of light and we are witnessing some impressive growth and color. There is something to say about the differences of what corals can take in our oceans as opposed to what they can take in an artificial environment as our home reef aquariums.
 
Btw, the super low PAR measurements from the magnetic ballast are possibly caused by a very long piece of wiring from the ballast to the reflector. That is how it came, and I never cut it short. I saw in this thread how it was recommended to keep those cords shorter. Too bad the old reflectors are already sold, or I'd test that once more. Oh well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12192105#post12192105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bubbletip2
That is a very good point. That's why I spent the money on one.
It's funny how we spend all this money on different lighting setups, water test kits, and expensive coral, but reefkeepers are so hesitant to grab a PAR meter. It will certainly last as long as you take care of it and have it calibrated whenever necessary. I really would like to see more reefkeepers using these devices because we are too reliant on everyone else to do this testing. Test things out yourselves so you can validate things and know what is best for your situation. I feel that testing tanks that are running with water is much more telling than open air tests that don't have anything to do with what is happening in our tanks.
 
I hear you Marc. I felt the same way after I unloaded my LumenArcs. I had no idea I would want them back so bad just to do some testing.

That would be a good test and I wondered the same thing when we tested the PFO's. They come with like 20ft cords. One thing is for sure is my EVC ballast has a 20ft long or so cord too and the PAR numbers were definitely respectable. So this may just be due to a difference in frequency amongst ballasts.

fijiblue and I were talking today and he had mentioned that he felt 12K Reeflux are frequency specific bulbs and when you fire them with a ballast with a different frequency than what is required they will certainly not fire the same. This makes total sense as to why they look different and measure different on the ballasts I mentioned before.

I think I will enquire more about this...
 
That didn't really post the way I thought it would. I was the person agreeing it is good to have a par meter and very glad I bought one.
 
Congrats again Jim. When I was in Hawaii last June I saw alot of weddings there. Get a hold of me sometime and let me know what Islands you plan on visiting, there are some really cool spots I know of especially on kona.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12194060#post12194060 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bubbletip2
I hear you Marc. I felt the same way after I unloaded my LumenArcs. I had no idea I would want them back so bad just to do some testing.

That would be a good test and I wondered the same thing when we tested the PFO's. They come with like 20ft cords. One thing is for sure is my EVC ballast has a 20ft long or so cord too and the PAR numbers were definitely respectable. So this may just be due to a difference in frequency amongst ballasts.

fijiblue and I were talking today and he had mentioned that he felt 12K Reeflux are frequency specific bulbs and when you fire them with a ballast with a different frequency than what is required they will certainly not fire the same. This makes total sense as to why they look different and measure different on the ballasts I mentioned before.

I think I will inquire more about this...

I may come up with a different way to test that ballast. I'll have to check and see if I have an old Spider reflector stashed away somewhere to test it with the longer cord and with a shorter cord. It won't be fun rigging it temporarily, but the things we do for science... :D
 
What is the max height that is recommended from the water surface to the water surface. I am running 2 250 reflux 12k on a 120 gallon 24 inch deep tank
 
These wouldn't work for a 18" wide hood right? I know the reflectors are 15.5" wide and then you add 7" for the mogul socket and you're over the 18" width.
 
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