NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

Not totally clear what you're planning on doing. A picture/drawing would help.

Many people have their return pump feed reactors, etc. No problem with this as long as you recognize that it will increase your head loss and reduce your return flow. Also realize that the total pressure (and flow) feeding your reactors may be less than you think it is.

Since it's off topic from the Herbie overflow I would recommend starting a new thread with your questions.
 
The Herbie is a great technique, but to be implemented most effectively you need a significant height difference between the main drain and the emergency drain. This makes it perfect for the standard 'reef ready' tank with a corner overflow, but very imperfect for a tank with a coast to coast overflow. The coast to coast overflow only affords a small difference between the two drains, making it difficult to keep it 'tuned.' For this setup, drilling an extra hole and converting to a Beananimal overflow is a much better solution.

Yup, c2c on my new 120 with bean. Converted my 12 nano aio into a custom corner overflow with 2 very n different height drains.
 
Last edited:
It's kind of funny because I figured mine out all on my own from trial and error. Just playing with it. My tank came in with 4 holes at the top and a silicone on overflow box. So I plumbed it. Well at first it was very loud and gurgling alot. So I then tried playing with the valves. I got it to quiet it down its dead silent. Thought I was good to go. Well then one day I get a phone call your tank is overflowing. The 4th hole had a glass patch on it. After 30 mine of nerve racking minutes I took the glass patch off. Plumbed that one down. My main drain is a 1inch with A strainer stuck right into the bulkhead behind the overflow. The return has a street 90 in it with a strainer in it. I used to have to type this all the time since I had no idea what type of overflow I had but always had to explain it. Now I just call it a herbie style.
 
went with 1,5" main drain and 1,5" emergency. And my main drsin pipe is submerged in the water about 1". I have one problem though, need help from herbie experts. i have been using filter sock on the main drain to filtered out small particles. As the filter sock get dirty, noticed my water level in my sump became quite low. And the water in the overflow became higher almost reach my emergency drain. My thought by changing the filter socks the water level became normal. But sadly it did not, have readjust the gate valve everytime .

Have I done something wrong ?

Thank you
 
There is something causing a slight blockage open the gate valve a bit more to solve the issue. It takes a month before the siphon line will fully set it and stabilize. Slime on the pipes, or what not. Best advice I ever had with a herbie was to put a lid over my overflow. Something that will keep all the snails out (they are the bane of herbies) like flies to a flame they just try and leap to their deaths, once they get near the siphon line they get pulled in and stuck at the small gate valve opening. Get a lid.
 
Herbie, sleepydoc, uncleofsix, great advise always to us who seek it. Thanks. Going to convert my 120 RR marineland corner overflow to Herbie in effort to achieve silence.
2 questions;
could valve on return not accomplish same goal as one on drain line?
any way to calculate height of drain so not to overflow sump?
Your thoughts appreciated.
 
a valve on the return will reduce the amount of water going into the display tank. a valve on the drain removes the air silencing the drain without reducing the flow. Very different results.

The drain height is established by your weir. Your drain heights just need to be less than that they don't significantly affect overflows in your sump.
 
I had to replace my tank due to a developing crack in the front pane. The replacement tank has a three hole overflow at my request so I can implement a Herbie. My sump is in the basement, is there a preferred location for the valve on the drain line? If the valve is in the basement it seems the siphon would establish pretty normally but the simultaneous adjustment and visual would be impossible. If the valve is under the tank the visibility issue is solved but it seems to me it would take quite some time to purge all the air out whenever the siphon needed to be restarted.

Thanks in advance,
Brian
 
I had to replace my tank due to a developing crack in the front pane. The replacement tank has a three hole overflow at my request so I can implement a Herbie. My sump is in the basement, is there a preferred location for the valve on the drain line? If the valve is in the basement it seems the siphon would establish pretty normally but the simultaneous adjustment and visual would be impossible. If the valve is under the tank the visibility issue is solved but it seems to me it would take quite some time to purge all the air out whenever the siphon needed to be restarted.

Thanks in advance,
Brian

I also have a basement sump and use a gate valve (highly recommend) under my stand. If it was in the basement you would go crazy trying to fine tune it. Love my full siphon Herbie! Good luck!
 
a valve on the return will reduce the amount of water going into the display tank. a valve on the drain removes the air silencing the drain without reducing the flow. Very different results.

The drain height is established by your weir. Your drain heights just need to be less than that they don't significantly affect overflows in your sump.
Okay maybe that's my issue. I was turning down the flow on the return lines I have to get the noise to stop. Figured out I have to almost shut them off completely to silence it. So adjust the drain lines instead?
 
Yes adjust the drain lines not the return. Gate valve is a near requirement as a ball valve is very difficult to tune a herbie with.

With a herbie (just a plain open top pipe for the siphon line) there is no start up time and no air to purge. (horizontal runs are the exception) You can just place the valve right under the tank without an issue. The Bean Animal setup has a start time that is caused by the elbows in the siphon line physically lifting the water, a herbie has no lift so there is no "real siphon" and no start up time. This makes it much better for flow and adaptability, but takes up considerably more space in the display. Even with a herbie use the Bean Animal setup for the other two pipes.
 
Still have the same problem, main drain after two days starting to clog. I have to readjust the gate valve to stabilized my desired water line in the overflow box. Main drains is 1.5 pipe , my guess flow should be around 1000-1500GPH ( running waveline dcpump 10k at speed 6 ) . Gate valve is almost closed for now, that could be the problem ? should I change the main drain to 1" pipe ? This would cause me more stable water in overflow due to hi flow down the pipe.

Thanks
 
Find out what is causing the clogs, you need a strainer or a lid that will keep snails, algae, and other pesky items from getting sucked down your siphon line.

Please be a little more descriptive, what is your main drain, I'm assuming it is the siphon line. How much water is flowing down your emergency pipe? I'm having a hard time understanding how your gate valve is almost closed with a maxed waveline pump?

Leave the pipes all at 1.5" there is no descent reason to go with smaller. The stability of the overflow water level is dependent on the flow from your display and the gate valve restriction.

Feel encouraged to post a pic as well.
 
Still have the same problem, main drain after two days starting to clog. I have to readjust the gate valve to stabilized my desired water line in the overflow box. Main drains is 1.5 pipe , my guess flow should be around 1000-1500GPH ( running waveline dcpump 10k at speed 6 ) . Gate valve is almost closed for now, that could be the problem ? should I change the main drain to 1" pipe ? This would cause me more stable water in overflow due to hi flow down the pipe.

Thanks


Something is a-miss here. Keep your drains 1.5". Make sure the top of the main drain is about half up your overflow. The main drains' exit in the sump should only be a max of 1" under the water.

You also need a good ATO. As evaporation occurs the system needs to balance again, this can cause fluctuating levels.

As said above, pictures of your setup would be helpful.
 





Main siphon line is submerged around 1" underwater, and if you could see in the picture water level in the overflow box should be around 1" from it shown. That rised after filter sock starting to clog, and then my water level in my sump also drop. Wonder how to fix that, was it because my gate valve not open enough ? My problem is if I open the gate valve more it would cause me waterfall noise in the overflow box.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
You have water going down your emergency. This is not advised so I would open your gate valve a little to lower the water in your overflow. Remember when you do this, that water must go somewhere so the level in the return section will rise. Once you have the siphon setup, then adjust your ATO.

If you are getting too much noise from water fall in the overflow when you open the gate valve, then you could raise the height of the main drain a little. Remember very small adjustments make significant changes so go slow. It also can take 10-20 minutes to balance out after a change, so be patient.

Also, how long is the horizontal run in the drain? This can cause issue with siphon drain setups.
 
So if I read everything properly. With a eshopps dual drain hob box, I can just leave one bulkhead open on the top wet side and gate that line, add a 7-8 inch piece of PVC to the other for emergency drain, hang that pipe a bit above the water to make noise if something is wrong. Gate the drain back to raise the water level to the emergency drain height. Simple as that?
 
So if I read everything properly. With a eshopps dual drain hob box, I can just leave one bulkhead open on the top wet side and gate that line, add a 7-8 inch piece of PVC to the other for emergency drain, hang that pipe a bit above the water to make noise if something is wrong. Gate the drain back to raise the water level to the emergency drain height. Simple as that?

On my system I set the emergency to the max height I want the water level to be in the tank. My siphon is deep in the overflow with the top of strainer at the half way point. You don't want the siphon to cause a vortex. So deep is good.
 
You have water going down your emergency. This is not advised so I would open your gate valve a little to lower the water in your overflow. Remember when you do this, that water must go somewhere so the level in the return section will rise. Once you have the siphon setup, then adjust your ATO.

If you are getting too much noise from water fall in the overflow when you open the gate valve, then you could raise the height of the main drain a little. Remember very small adjustments make significant changes so go slow. It also can take 10-20 minutes to balance out after a change, so be patient.

Also, how long is the horizontal run in the drain? This can cause issue with siphon drain setups.

Hi shags
There is no water dropping down to my emergency line. The picture actually taken when my filter sock starting to clog, and raised my water level in the overflow box. I did setup my ATO when the main drain line fully siphoned, my only problem is whenever my filter sock clogged a little bit . That lowered my water level in return section, where I setup my ATO.
And everytime when I chaned my filter sock to new / freshly washed one still yet have to adjust the gate valve. Is that normal ? Have I missed something ?
I have tried to open up my gate valve more, that became so noisy and raised my main drain line a little bit higher . That sucked a little bit air down the line, and after filter sock clog again it starting lower my sump water level significantly . my ato when crazy.
My guess the horizontal line should be around 8"

Thanks
 
Back
Top