NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

I would open your drain pipe up more and shorten it. Having just a few holes in a pipe can get clogged easy. I know we have an E drain, but I would not restrict the flow on your primary if you can help it. It could be open or you can use a strainer.
I have the threaded overflow strainer:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquar...mbing_parts_fittings_bulkheads_strainers.html

I know there are people using the gravity fed skimmer method, but I would rather use a skimmer feed pump. Its seems like having everything drain perfectly and at a continuous rate even with adjusting seems difficult.
I am sure you know what you are doing.

I would rather rely on one pump with a steady stream pumping into my skimmer and I do.
Then again, I am not an expert on skimmers.

Comments please.
 
goldenavalon:

openloop3modfd.jpg


If your skimmer can actually handle all of the flow from the drain, then put a ball valve on the other side of the "T" and close it when you're operating normally. If you need to take the skimmer out, close the gate valve (or have another ball valve above it after the T) and open the ball valve so you still have flow through your sump.

If you have a recirc skimmer and the ability to gravity feed, I would definitely give it a shot. It can be very touchy if the water level is not constant, but a reliable and consistent top-off system should cure that. No reason to add another source of heat to the system if you don't have to.


Cheers,
Marty
 
how the....? You are clever. Good to know they're still teaching engineers to use CAD :P Not sure how you turned a jpg into a dwg though... please teach.

It looks like you are suggesting I drill another hole in my tank. That would certainly clean up the pipes...

Thanks for all the comments
 
Golden Avalon,

No need to drill a second hole, because you've got two overflow drains, just one situated on each side of your tank. You'll get essentially the same effect with your current set up, you'll just have your overflow drain on the opposite end of the tank. It should essentially work the same way as long as your overflow boxes are built exactly the same way. :)

Go for it, and I'm sure you'll be very happy with the setup if you fulfill all the prerequisites as stated earlier.

Peace,
John
 
I've read every post in this thread (took me 2 days!) and have a couple quick questions:

1. Do you need to set it up like standpipe====>strainer pipe===>cap

or just standpipe=====>strainer pipe ?


2. Is it ideal to have the gate valve installed on a straight pipe into the sump (no bends) or do a few elbows make any difference?


3. What's everyone using as the strainer pipe? I saw both the Perforated Rigid Tubing and the Suction Screen mentioned - but no testimonies...



Looking forward to trying this out!
 
I don't use a strainer at all, it's all good since you've always got that backup drain, however, if you've got tons of particulate matter or algae floating around in your tank, a simple gutter guard strainer might work well.

Bends don't matter as long as you have the drain pipe submerged in the sump. The only thing bends do is they add a bit of resistance so you won't be able to flow as much water down the drain pipe. Install a ball valve/gate valve on the output of your pump and you should be alright.

Peace,
John
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11972615#post11972615 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rufio173
Install a ball valve/gate valve on the output of your pump and you should be alright.
Click to expand...


So I need to install a gate valve on both the return and drain pipe?
 
If you are interested in an easier but just as effective method try googling hofer gurgle buster and click on the first link.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11983412#post11983412 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dmbnpj
If you are interested in an easier but just as effective method try googling hofer gurgle buster and click on the first link.
Click to expand...


I've tried building one of those in the past, while it does quiet the overflow significantly I still had an issue with crazy sump bulbing and flushing.

Maybe I just had it tuned incorrectly...
 
I run the Herbie method on my 120G tank, and use a Hofer Gurgle buster on my 60G cube, since it has an overflow box with only one drain.
With the gurgle buster, the overflow box is much quieter than without, but it doesn't compare to the Herbie (imo).
It's mostly the air coming into the sump that;s making things noisier.
 
In my case my flexible tubing had a 'sag' in it before it exited into my refugium. That 'sag' caused a buildup which caused the water to purge and actually overflow my refugium. That could relate to the air buildup you are having. I corrected the issue by changing my drain to hard plumbed pvd. My system runs completely quiet.
 
I've been using a coast to coast Overflow box 5"x5" and back of tank drilled for two 1.5" bulkheads using one for the drain the other a emer. drain for a year now..works good but am setting up an new tank and not so sure about doing the coast to coast again. It can't be beat for surface skimming but I wonder if alternative corner/center box(s) may be least intrusive to the tank. If corner or center boxes are used can they be as effective if not all the the way to bot. of tank and drilled to go out the back,, or is that useless? Definitely want to use a Herbie method of silent drain. I've got a chance for a "do over" and would love to hear some of your thoughts on it. BTW, mixed reef heavier on inverts, My tank will be 36x24x24 Thanks.
 
I am thinking about a plumbing redo and this Herbie method sounds very ingenious! I might give it a try (if I can with my setup).

The problem: It would be very difficult for me at this point to run the return line over the back of the tank to free up an additional bulkhead (possible, but not likely). I am wondering if I can get around this...

My setup, a GC 240g long, RR, two overflows, each with a 1.5" and 1" bulkhead.


My question is with dual overflows and two Herbie drains, can I get away with just a single emergency drain??? So it would be something like this: 1st overflow has Herbie drain and emergency drain. Second overflow has another Herbie drain and return line. Thinking about a return pump like the Sequence Wahoo or Marlin with possibly as few things inline, and a couple eductors in the tank, something maybe 1000-1500gph through the return pump (btw this isnt saltwater, its for FW, not that it makes a big difference).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12046888#post12046888 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crazy loaches
My question is with dual overflows and two Herbie drains, can I get away with just a single emergency drain???
Click to expand...


Only problem I could see would be if both drains got clogged simultaneously then you'd be SOL (emergency drain probably couldn't keep up w/ the return pump), but I think the chances of that are slim.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12050755#post12050755 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SanFranTodd
Only problem I could see would be if both drains got clogged simultaneously then you'd be SOL (emergency drain probably couldn't keep up w/ the return pump), but I think the chances of that are slim.
Click to expand...

I've never had issues with clogging, not to worried about that. I dont run any kind of screen or anything, just a large mesh bag over the drain in the sump to catch large debris or fish that might happen to make it down.
 
I just wanted to say thank you Herbie... You have saved me. When I first set up my tank the noise was unbearable.

I run an OR 6500 for my return and after head loss and plumbing I figure I am running 1000ish GPH to my sump.

I have 2 one inch returns and 1 of them slightly restricted handles the total flow. The other is sitting there wide open as a backup.

Now that I have it all tuned out you can hear a pin drop by my tank. The return is dead and I mean dead silent.

Thank you for this awesome idea.
 
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