NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

Quick question for those that use this method with the BH's drilled in the back of the tank.

I'm setting up a 50 gallon tank (36x18x18) and am trying to figure out what to do for an overflow. Since the bottom is tempered, I'm going to have the two 1" drains drilled in the back corner of the tank. One near the bottom and the other about half way up, then I'll just use different length stand pipes to get the water level where I want it.

The question is, in planning for the overflow, what depth is needed (back to front) to fit around the the two 90 elbows? I'm trying to make the overflow as small as possible, to save on space, but still be able to do maintenance and what not.
 
well I got all my plumbing done and water in the tank.. I cant believe how quite this system is!! its AWESOME!! thanks Herbie..
 
Does the return line to the sump have to be submerged in water for this to work? My sump lets the water drain through a pad first.
 
Will this work on a 220 Perfecto XH

Will this work on a 220 Perfecto XH

Will this method work on 220 Perfecto XH with corner overflows? I am getting one soon and will read this thread. Just wanted a quick answer considering there are over 1000 posts. If someone by chance has a 220 Perfecto please take a pic so I can see it.

Thanks
 
Finished setting mine up a couple days ago and its been in the garage fresh water testing since. Other than a slight hum from the 1260, this thing is dead silent!! Have the return t'd off to the fuge, and then run over the back of the tank. Other than a leaking bulkhead, every things running great! Thanks herbie!!!
 
The pictures were deleted long ago by accident. Sorry.
If you go to Bulk Reef Supply website, they have some videos to view. One of the videos shows this system, and how to set it up. Its pretty nice.
This should work on a 220, I know a lot of people have done it with twin overflows. It is much simpler with just a single overflow. Perhaps someone who set up a large tank with 2 overflows can help you out a bit. I have only been using this system on single overflow tanks. You will be dealing with 4 holes versus 2 now. The trick is to try to keep both boxes flowing close to the same amount of water. I am thinking that you could set-up a main, and an emergency in both boxes. Possibily tee the mains together and use 1 gate valve to control both mains. Emergencys can and should be independent.
Hope this helps.
Herbie
 
Oops missed the s on overflows. As Herbie said tie the drains together and then the valve. As long as some water flows into both boxes there will be no stagnant areas. The water level will be the same (even with no flow they would be the same) so you can't use the level to determine if the flows are equal.
 
i dont wanna bombard this thread but i have a huge problem...i plumbed in my tank filled it up worked great...no leaks using i gues the so called durso style? it sucks air and is loud as heck the wife is going to shoot me if i can get this bad boy fixed asap like today lol...so im asking so of you know-how-tos to please give your input on repairing or replacing my main drain inlet...my return is great my drain not so much...i can figure out on this HERBIE method where is the vent? if the drain tube sets under the surface how does it vent to draw water down??? here is a link to my problem PICS ON MY POST. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1975405 thanks in advance...any input is appreciated!
 
The whole idea behind this method is to keep air out of the main drain line by using a full siphon, and controlling it using a gate valve. So, there isn't a "vent" to let air in, which makes it very quiet. You then just need an additional drain to provide an emergency drain in case the siphon drain is blocked. The main change as far as hardware is another drain, and the gate valve.
 
Would this method work on a HOB overflow with 2 lines? I would love to shut up my damn setup and I'm trying like crazy to adjust my stockman mods and the reverse durso in the sump to no avail :(
 
It might. I remember reading that someone had trouble with a HOB overflow. IIRC when the power came back on the tank filled faster than the siphon was created. So the HOW would fill up there was less head pressure so it filled slower and eventually the water went over the tank rim. So I suppose as long as there is enough time for the si[hon to be created, before the tank overflow you would be OK.

What affect the time for the siphon to start? I don't know, but I imagine the following would. Amount of air needing to be purged (more air longer time). Flow of the water (I would think a faster flow would pull the air out faster). Amount of horizontal run (I just picture this as harder to get the air out of). Probably some others.
 
You could but I wouldn't do it. There is a bigger chance of loosing siphon in the U tube then you would have a flood. Take a look at the pvc overflow. Its supposed to be self priming after a power outage. You have to get the flow going first to start it. I made one of my 55 fw but haven't had a chance to finish it and try it yet.
 
If you have a siphon "hang on" type overflow either Bean or Herbie over flow is very highly NOT recommended. I have done LOTS of testing on it, even had some custom Lifereef overflows made to my specs. In the end, although they were quiet, they were not failsafe. Its a physics thing, as the water rises on the overflow box simulating a clogged drain the syphon slows down (the pump does not!). As the water gets close or the emergency overflow, the water flow through the siphon tube almost stops completely. It wont get air in it and stop, it just wont flow any water because the water level is too high to produce a proper siphon. Then the tank will slowly overfill with water.

HTH.......
Herbie
 
I am having a tank made and want to go the Herbie method - I need to know what size holes should be drilled in the overflow?
 
start off by figuring how much flow you'll be running through your sump then you can work back though Bean's calculator (bottom of page) for bulkhead size.

Am a Herbie user and happy but am finding say if my filter socks need changing I'll start flowing into the backup. Changing the socks things usually goes back to normal, other than that I might adjust once a month. From reading, seems a Bean Overflow gives a better range before adjustment need.
 
I agree with above, but a bean-style wasn't practical for a ~10 gallon tank, so i designed a larger emergency so that I was more comfortable having a tiny bit of water going down the non-siphon when whatever variables affect the siphon vary. As long as it is a small amount, the water just clings to the sides and is silent. You need to decide whether it is worth the extra work, both options have benefits.
 
das75 said:
start off by figuring how much flow you'll be running through your sump then you can work back though Bean's calculator (bottom of page) for bulkhead size.

Am a Herbie user and happy but am finding say if my filter socks need changing I'll start flowing into the backup. Changing the socks things usually goes back to normal, other than that I might adjust once a month. From reading, seems a Bean Overflow gives a better range before adjustment need.
Click to expand...

How do I figure how much flow is running through my sump?
 
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