NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

What size drain?

What size drain?

Hi, I’m planning on setting up Herbie’s method in my new 120 AGA. I’m going to be using an Eheim 1260 (635 gph) as the return pump. The overflows are rated at 1200 gph using the two 1” drains. I’m thinking of using the ¾” as drains, this way the flow going into the sump will be less and easier to match to the Eheim. The 1” will be used for the emergency backup drains.

Is this a correct assumption? Will it make a difference?

Thanks
 
Sounds like it would work to me. So it has two overflows and each one of them has a 1" and a 3/4" bulkhead? Does that mean you would have four drains total, using the 2 x 3/4" for the main drains and the 2 x 1" drains for the emergency drains? Then what are you going to do for the return lines? Over the back?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8690041#post8690041 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rdmpe
Sounds like it would work to me. So it has two overflows and each one of them has a 1" and a 3/4" bulkhead? Does that mean you would have four drains total, using the 2 x 3/4" for the main drains and the 2 x 1" drains for the emergency drains? Then what are you going to do for the return lines? Over the back?
Click to expand...

Yep, I was planning on going over the back. But I could also have only one emergency line and use the other 1" drain for the return. What do you think?
 
I had a 150 All Glass with 2 overflows as you described. I was using a larger pump but I used all 4 lines as drains and came over the back with two 1" sea swirls. I think you will be more confort in knowing you have 4 drain lines. Incidentally, I used the 1" drains as the main lines and the 3/4" as backups but I needed more flow.

This is a trial and error thing. It is very hard to predict what you are going to need until you actually have the pump running. The pump rating itself is an indicator but you also have to account for head pressure when the stand pipes are submerged. The amount of water over the standpipe influences the force at which the lines will drain. You also need to take into account any plumbing parts, etc.

In the end I was very happy. I have since got rid of the 150 and now have a custom starphire 180 and I use the exact same method. I am quite amazed that this plumbing method did not catch on.

Cheers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8693610#post8693610 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LePep
Yep, I was planning on going over the back. But I could also have only one emergency line and use the other 1" drain for the return. What do you think?
Click to expand...

I don't know if the 1260 pump has sufficient power to drive two return lines, one of them also has to drive a wavemaker.

The nature of this system makes the actual restricted drain (at the gate valve) a very small opening for passage. Under 4 to 5 feet of head from the overflow box, it does not take much opening at the gate valve to deliver 400gph flow. I think your 1260 would be the smallest pump I would use on this silent drain system, and both drains are combined into a single outlet where the gate valve will be.

I use an Eheim 1262 rated 900 max, the actual flow is maybe 600gph with the head loss, my gate valve isn't open by much, but large enough to pass through brine shrimps and pods, in another word anything that will pass through the screen at the drain intake.

One more thing, under this system, the size of the drain pipe to use in the overflow box is not critical, since as I said at the most restricted point (gate valve) the opening is maybe the same as a 1/4" to 3/8" tube for a 400gph flow, any pipes in the overflow box will be many times larger.
 
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Thanks guys, your comments have been very helpful. I guess that I'll take this as a trial and error thing. I will probably start setting up next week so I wil let you know. Who knows, maybe there’s a 1262 on my future. I could always use the 1260 for a backup pump just in case :rolleyes: .

Thanks again!
 
Every account I have read of someone using the Herbie method seems to have a Reef Ready tank with overflows feeding bulkheads in the bottom of the tank. Will this method work on a horizontal [internal] overflow with bulkheads on the back of the tank that bend 90* before draining vertically?
 
Dittos with what the triple 9 said. As long as you have the inlet submerged. There are a few posts where people have come up with a way to use this method with external over flows.

This thread needs more photos too!!!
 
I plan on doing 2x1" drains and 1x1" emergency (just an elbow turned upwards). I wanted to avoid using elbows in order to minimize the width of my internal overflow, but I don't think I can get around it.
I will post plenty of pics when done.
 
I have the Oceanic Tech tank with dual 1" drains and dual 3/4" returns. I am using a MAG9.5 tee'd into the returns at around 500gph. I originally used a ball valve and just recently added a gate valve for better control. As jacmyoung pointed out, the gate valve is closed almost all the way to get the appropriate amount of flow.

I had a scarey moment a few weeks ago when I noticed my overflow and drains started oscillating and making loud noises. I tried adjusting the ball valve, but couldn't get anywhere. Ultimately I opened the valve completely and the problem went away. A few hours later I noticed my Atlantic Pygmy Angel was in the sump and had some minor scale abrasion. I was able to move him back and he made a full recovery. I'm really, no REALLY glad I had to backup drain.
 
med_gallery_868_102_1412890.jpg


Bottom hole is main drain, middle e-drain, top is return. Works flawlessly :)
 
MAN.........
This thread is still going !!!! I guess its still quieting tanks down. Lots of interest .........cool! Sorry, I havent replied lately.
Just for a heads up........I usually wont reply to questions about tanks with multible drains, multible tanks or drilled tanks without overflows, simply because I have never tried it out and I dont want to give out the wrong advise. The wrong advise on this topic can lead to disasterous results!

mthird........get some SCREENS on your drains !!! Scary stuff. That is a clogg just waiting to happen. Nice tank BTW.

Dandy........what are you up to now ?? Is that an old tank shot of your corner tank during the build up, or are you up to something new ?!?! I dont remember seeing that picture. Good Luck.

Later...........Herbie
 
The tech tank comes with a neat lid for the overflows, but I didn't trim the return pipes enough for it to fit. I've been a little lazy and haven't gotten around to it :)

I should have learned after a new cleaner shrimp disappeared after the first night. Two weeks later while removing the filter sock I found it had been living in the sock for the whole time!
 
Wonderful thread, I plan to use the Herbie System for my Sump/Overflow as well. I condisered all the options and read through the debate - and in the end too many people are using this very successfully without any air getting into the system and thus generating no noise. Low noise levels are one of the themes for my Miax-92 tank, and this system fits the bill perfectly.

Thanks Herbie!

What I found fascinating overall was how the thread evolved.. First an unknown new guy comes up with a new innovative idea and posts about it at depth to share that idea with the world. The older, senior members immediately attack this new idea from this young wipper-snapper and even flame him in some responses. Then over time more and more people report into the thread that the system really works well, and every argument debunking the method is either soundly defeated by real-world experience or proven to be of little consequence. Of course some said this idea is not technically New, but it certainly has never been branded, endorsed and documented like Durso's has - and I think that is where Herbie came along and made the idea much more public, more standard.

I think the Herbie Standpipe System (which includes the Emergency Drain) has turned-out to be superior to even the tried and true Durso, though I'll probably get flamed for even suggesting that. ;) In general I find it fascinating how a new idea evolved into first a proven idea, and then twoards becoming a standard. While the Durso is awesome, proven and will remain a staple in reef tanks around the globe, I also think the Herbie system will continue to gain wide-spread popularity as an excellent alternative to Dursos. You have to respect Herbie's persistence through the thread, even when attacked - he held is ground and the idea moved forward.

I post pictures in my thread once the system is live tonight.

Cheers!

Kris
 
I bypassed this thread numerous times when building my 125aga eventually I gave it a shot based on other peoples resullts , best thing I ever did , cheers Herbie.
 
One advantage Durso has is it does not require an emergency drain. A standard RR tank has usually two outlets, one for drain one for return. One can certainly use both for drain and have the return go through the back but it is not an off the shelf solution.

It'd be nice if one of those manufactures starts to add a third hole in the overflow box and add some instructions and parts to support this method.

At the meantime, my silent drain without emergency backup is running smooth as silk after nearly one year. I have only cleaned my screen about three times in that time, not because there was any problem just I felt obligated to keep things clean in order to earn a good tank owner's name.

One unexpected benefit of this system was now there is more room in the overflow box, I was able to put both my heater and my self-driven UV sterilizer in there instead of having them in the tank looking ugly.
 
Question:
How does using the Herbie method affect the skimming ability of the overflows?

What I mean is, since the drain is submerged, it no longer is sucking water from the surface of the overflow. It would seem that the crud would just flow over the overflow and then collect inside the overflow instead of going down the drain. Right?
 
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