New Product! Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light

joecc said:
My tank length is 60 3/8". Please confirm that the 48" -60" will absolutely not fit? No corals
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According to the information provided to us, 60" is the max. We would recommend checking with Current USA directly to see if there is any way of extending the brackets further, or if an alternate solution is available.
 
Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light

Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light

niladride said:
Hi,

This light is not available in India. Amazon.com ships this light to India but 36-48 inches and 48-60 inches are not eligible for shipping.

For my 4.5 * 2 * 1.5 (Length * Width * Height) cubic feet aquarium, will 2 24-36 inches lights suffice?
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If you have a center brace then you can use two fixtures to cover a 53" aquarium. As for coverage/light intensity, it is best suited for a fish-only system since your aquarium is 24" tall.
 
International Shipping

International Shipping

niladride said:
Thanks a lot for replying. Mine is 18 inches tall, width is 24 inches. Do you ship to India?
Click to expand...

You are welcome. We appreciate your question and interest in shopping with us! Unfortunately we do not ship to your country at this time. Hopefully we can serve India in the future but as of today we do not.
 
Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light

Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light

Hi,

I have this light (48"-60") on a 75 gallon tank. I have noticed that since receiving it my purple coralline has faded and some has died off. I have no coral and would think one fixture is enough. Are there any settings you would recommend I set the light at? Would I need a second one?
 
bo305 said:
Hi,

I have this light (48"-60") on a 75 gallon tank. I have noticed that since receiving it my purple coralline has faded and some has died off. I have no coral and would think one fixture is enough. Are there any settings you would recommend I set the light at? Would I need a second one?
Click to expand...

What lighting system was on the aquarium previously? How long has the aquarium been up and running? And, what are your calcium and alkalinity levels?

Dramatically changes in lighting or water parameter may cause coralline algae to die off.
 
I had a 48" wavepoint t5 on it and it was doing great but the ballasts would not even make a year. After the first ballast went, I bought a second light. Then when the second went, I took the two that still worked and put them in one fixture. But last year the third ballast went. Tried to contact the company to find replacement ballasts with no luck. It's too bad cause I really liked that light. If I can find some ballast that would fit that are not made in China, I will go back to that. The tank has been running in my house for 4 years with 1 fish but as of a month ago I have no fish. I have had this new light for almost a year now. I do not know my calcium levels. I know I have had this tank that I inherited from a friend when he had to move, but do not know much about the hobby. When I had the wavepoint, the rocks looked great. All I did was put in some purple up a few times a year and and 20 gallon water change each month. I am away right now but when I get home next week I will pick up calcium test and test that and alkaline and post back. Thank you.
 
A change in lighting may have some impact, water parameters can have an even bigger impact on coralline algae growth. Low calcium, extremely high phosphates, extremely high nitrates or very low pH are also possible reason why coralline algae may not grow (or die off).

For now, checking your calcium level and allowing the aquarium some time to acclimate to the new light would be a good place to start.

If you had a two-bulb T5 and switched to the Orbit Marine, the light output would be comparable. The Orbit may actually be a little brighter.

However, if you had a four-bulb T5, then the amount of light would have decreased significantly and may be part of the issue.

Most of the high-end T5 fixtures use ballasts that are made in China, so quality can vary significantly. If you are comfortable with electrical wiring, we would recommend taking a look at 'Fulham' branded ballasts.
 
Thank you for your help. I got back home yesterday and picked up a calcium test kit. I tested everything I have. My PH is 7.8, Ammonia ia 0, Nitrite is 0, Nitrate is 5, Phosphate is .25, and Calcium is 360. My calcium might be a bit low. As for the lighting, I had the 4 lamp 216 watt light before this one. I do notice it is not near as bright as the T5 I used to have, but I turned the white light down really low because I thought that was hurting the coalline. In the T5, I used to use 3 TrueLumen 460nm actinic blue and 1 TrueLumen white. Should I turn up the white light? Thanks again for your help.
 
bo305 said:
Thank you for your help. I got back home yesterday and picked up a calcium test kit. I tested everything I have. My PH is 7.8, Ammonia ia 0, Nitrite is 0, Nitrate is 5, Phosphate is .25, and Calcium is 360. My calcium might be a bit low. As for the lighting, I had the 4 lamp 216 watt light before this one. I do notice it is not near as bright as the T5 I used to have, but I turned the white light down really low because I thought that was hurting the coalline. In the T5, I used to use 3 TrueLumen 460nm actinic blue and 1 TrueLumen white. Should I turn up the white light? Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. It sounds like the issue may be caused by a few different factors. A 4 bulb T5 system is definitely brighter than a single Oribit fixture as you are looking at 216W for the T5 and 46W for the Orbit at full power. LED's are significantly more efficient. However, you will need two strips to be at the same level of light as your T5's.

The pH at 7.8 and the calcium at 360 can also cause issues with coralline algae growth. I would suspect that your alkalinity level is low as well. Adding supplements to get the pH up to 8.0-8.3, calcium to 400-450, alkalinity to 8-12 as well as turning up the white lights on your Orbit should get the coralline algae growing again. The phosphate is also high at 0.25 as the ideal level should be around 0.05. Using a phosphate remover will also be a good idea. If the coralline algae is still not growing well after a couple of months, you may want to consider adding a second Orbit strip or going back to your T5's.
 
So you know I am not all that experienced at this but let me run this by you. I have an old Fluval canister filter in the basement. If I run some PhosBan and some carbon in it, do you think it will help? I also ordered some Seachem Reef Fusion part 1 and 2 to help with the calcium and alkalinity.
For the Orbit you mentioned turning the white lights up. Right now I have them manually set for 75% Actinic and 40% White. What would you think I should set them for? And should I change them gradually or all at once?
This is the first time I have used this site. You have helped me out a lot with this. I appreciate this.
 
bo305 said:
So you know I am not all that experienced at this but let me run this by you. I have an old Fluval canister filter in the basement. If I run some PhosBan and some carbon in it, do you think it will help? I also ordered some Seachem Reef Fusion part 1 and 2 to help with the calcium and alkalinity.
For the Orbit you mentioned turning the white lights up. Right now I have them manually set for 75% Actinic and 40% White. What would you think I should set them for? And should I change them gradually or all at once?
This is the first time I have used this site. You have helped me out a lot with this. I appreciate this.
Click to expand...

Yes, running PhosBan or other phosphate removal media in your canister filter will definitely help. It is not effective as running them in a media reactor but will still work.

As for the Orbit, we would recommend to increase each channel by 10% or so very few days till you get up to 100% blues and your personal preference for whites.

I am glad we're able to help! :thumbsup:
 
MarineDepot said:
As for the Orbit, we would recommend to increase each channel by 10% or so very few days till you get up to 100% blues and your personal preference for whites.

I am glad we're able to help! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I bought the 48" for use on a 40 breeder in the works. You recommend 100% blues and whites per preference for everyone or just the prior poster?
I was under the understanding that "blue was for show and white was for grow". Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm still open to ideas and learning.
 
FamilyTank said:
I bought the 48" for use on a 40 breeder in the works. You recommend 100% blues and whites per preference for everyone or just the prior poster?
I was under the understanding that "blue was for show and white was for grow". Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm still open to ideas and learning.
Click to expand...

Both blue and white LED's are capable of growing corals. Blue LED's are lower in output so may not seem to 'grow' corals as well compared to the same number of white LED's.

As with your aquarium, we recommend the same. Which is eventually increasing the blue intensity to 100% and your personal preference for the whites.
 
Super, thanks, I sure will.I haven't even opened them,yet. It drives my wife crazy.lol. Where should I start them?
 
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