New prop system

Thanks. I'm working on the "teeth's overflow". The tank and sump are already in place. I'm going to wait a few more days before checking for any leaks.

Ricardo
 
Hi,

I'm going to put a few fishes in this tank so it's better to use some teeth in the overflow. I really like clownfishes (a lot) and i'm lacking one of my favorite's species from Red Sea: Amphiprion bicinctus. Also I need more space for my Bangaii juveniles to grow out.

Some more "dry" photos:

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Tomorrow I'm going to check for leaks and put the electrical oulets.

Ricardo
 
Sump and tank have passed the "leaks" test and are already filled with seawater. Now more fun with water in! As I really like to do things myself now it's time for the lighting and skimmer.

It was dark when I finished to fill in the tank so photos just tomorrow. But I wiil share with you where I'm going to get natural seawater. That's a fantastic small cape called "Cabo Raso" near "Cabo da Roca" - the Western point of Europe (this is where me and my reefs meets Atlantic Ocean):

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It's always better to be there in low tide (if you want to keep yourself dry and away from the waves).
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20gal large buckets
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Fantastic view from the lighthouse, you can see all "Serra de Sintra" and "Cabo da Roca" at left.
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Ricardo
 
Is the water pumped in from offshore a bit? Have you, or your friends used this water before? Worried about polution in the water? I wish I lived by the ocean and had access to NSW. I live in Minnesota, so it would be a bit of a drive. :lol:
 
I live right by the atlantic ocean in Florida. Some lfs use the water but I beleive it still needs treatments and.or you have to get the water at certain delth and at certain tides. otherwise it could be bad stuff.


Now I have heard that a lfs in Daytona Beach uses seawater and does water changes every other month. I hear that his corals go bezerk when he does water changes. especially the lps, they double in size.
 
The water is collected directly from the shore. If it smells or isn't crystal clear I don't collect it at all. I didn't have any problems due to pollution but once I got a micoalgae bloom that required an almost total water change to get rid off. Our public aquarium and other aquarists collects water there too.

I use only natural seawater and do regular water changes. I don't use any kind of suplementation besides Calcium and kalk reactors. I think that the replenishment of trace elements and some live plankton make corals grow faster.

New photos:

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Durso standpipe and Tunze turbelle 7240/2 (18gph)
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Sump: DIY skimmer, 300W Jager heater, Tunze osmolator with Calcium dispenser and 12gal RO/DI water reservoir, return pump Eheim 1262 (900gph)
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Next: lighting

Ricardo
 
I'm not sure about not to use actinics on this prop tank. Is it ok to use only 3 x 150 W (6.500K) HQI?

Thank you Alex! You're welcome to make a visit.

Ricardo
 
I would use 10K myself. But if your going to do 6500 I would use some actinics for sure. But that's just me.

Looking great. Can't wait to see it full of corals. :thumbsup:
 
6500k Metal Halide is fine. Actinics are not neccessary.

You might want to use 20000k for a couple weeks before you sell.
 
Lights are almost completely done.

Should I put some sugar size aragonite in the bottom?

New pics with my Bangaii juveniles:

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Comments please!

Hasta,
Ricardo
 
I would keep the prop tank lit at the same color tep as is popular among the aquarist you intend to sell to. This will promote the health of your frags once sold since they will not have to dramatiacly acclimate to different lighting. Thus in return you get a good reputation for selling healthy stock. I insist upon actinic light in my prop systems. The inverts just do so much better with it.
 
gobygoby said:
one is hard and one is soft...:D

one soft wood is pine. you can gouge it with your fingernail. there is lots of other soft woods. They dent rather easily.

Hard wood is like oak, ash, poplar...they are very hard and dense. IMO look better when stained then compared to soft woods.

hth
Goby

Not to go tooooo far off topic, but there is one exception. Balsa wood is actually a "hardwood", and is exceedingly soft :)

Back on topic, great looking setup :)
 
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