new resident

Your post was not a question, just an incorrect statement:
"If your tank params are fine, you shoudlnt have a ick problem, doesn't ick only occur in a tank with bad water. Every fish has ick, but something had to trigger it like stress or bad water."

Crypto only occurs in a tank infected with crypto. Although referred to as "marine ich" it is not the same as ich that is seen in FW tanks.

Our first reef had an outbreak of flatworms, about a week after our first frag swap. No QT, right into the display. We were advised at Capitol to add a velvet nudibranch. They eat flatworms like crazy. Then they die of starvation and become toxic. That bugger killed a pair of clownfish that had been guarding their first clutch of eggs, a yellow tang that may have had crypto, and a mandarin that actually ate frozen and flake food. We started the reef over and let it sit fallow (no fish) for 2 months, keeping normal water changes and carbon in the filters. This allowed a nice population of pods and worms to establish. No wet object, macro, crab, snail,coral or fish escape the QT queen now.

"I wouldnt see myself running up and down my stairs with a fish in net from the qt tank to the main, if my qt was upstairs."
I would hope not. Plastic containers work fine when moving a fish.
 
Nice fish Pico. Feel free to call the pentagon as I DONT QUARETINE EITHER!!!!!!!!! OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What ever man. Everybody just needs to chill. If everyone did what every expert ever said, we would have never even tried keeping coral in a closed system as it is impossible to recreate what wild corals recieve in a single day. I've had many experiences over the years where introducing a new fish has broght ich. It has always cleared up with NO TREATMENT other than good fish tank husbandry. I'm sure plenty of "healthy" tanks have been wiped out over the years by a new addition but if you put a even a good fish in a "teetering tank" the results can be disasterous. Get a cleaner shrimp and do a water change. LOL
 
Cryptocaryon irritans is NOT present in every system, and can infect fish in pristine water. It can be eradicated with a strict quarantine procedure.

Keep in mind that a 'quarantine tank' need not be an actual fish tank. I use a 32 gallon plastic trash can with a canister filter. The canister filter is placed on an established tank for a week or two. Add saltwater to trash can. Mix with powerhead and heater. Place canister filter on trash can. Done and done.

Adding a cleaner shrimp can help, but every tank is different. What has worked for you may not work for others. It may keep the parasite at bay for a very long time in tanks with naturally disease resistant fish, but a cleaner shrimp can easily be overwhelmed by a full blown outbreak of Cryptocaryon. What WILL work is to quarantine your fish and prevent introducing the parasite in the first place.

Some more information from a five part series on Cryptocaryon by Terry Bartelme:

http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2003/mini1.htm
http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/dec2003/mini2.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/mini3.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2004/mini4.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2004/mini5.htm
 
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