New Tank Controller Starting

[funman1]

Well I have been slaving away on my new tank controller.
Here is what i have so far.

I'm going to use a Seimens LOGO! Control Module with an addon extra 4 ins and 4 outs, and a 24v power supply. All DIN rail mount.

So it basicaly has 12 Inputs (1 Analog: Temp Probe) and 12 outputs

Here is the lighting logic it will follow....
____________ON___________OFF____
Fuge Lites____10:00PM______9:00AM
W Leds_______8:00AM______10:50PM
PC Lites______8:10AM_______10:40PM
MH Lites______10:00AM_____10:20PM

UNLESS The temp probe goes too high or low and then....
____________________ON_________OFF
High Temp Alarm_______84__________83
Low Temp Alarm_______74__________76
Heaters______________78__________79
Fans________________82__________80
MHs_________________81__________83
PC Lites/PowerHeads___83__________84

It will control:Sump Pump, Skimmer Pump, Halides, AutoTop Off Pump, PC Lights, White LEDs, All Powerheads, Fans, Fuge Light, Chirping Alarm.

So if temp goes below 74 then alarms sounds, Temp 79 heaters Shutdown, then 82 Fans on, then 83 MHs Off, 84 ALL powerheads, PC Lights, and skimmer Off, and sound alarm.

Here is a screen shot of the logic programing, and a pic of the unit.

Let me know what you think. Anything I missed??

 

[Reefugee]

Steve,

Great idea. I looked into this a while back - but never pursued it. Just a couple of quick questions. According to you, this has 12 output relays, but I am only seeing 8 outputs when you have need 11 for your setup. Also - have you written the module to read temperature or is there a prepackage module?

Minh

 

[Justin74]

Flippen cool Steve!! Theres some nice features embedded in that.

-Justin

 

[funman1]

Well that pic is not completly accurate, it's just one I grabed from their website real quickly
So that one you see is actually setup diff then mine will be.

Yep the standard base unit only has 8, and then I bought an upgrade module that adds another 4 ins and 4 outs. It plugs into the side just like the pics shows. Yep I left a few I/Os untouched for "future" thoughts.

Here is the plan for the pinouts of input buttons and switches.
1)Temp Probe
2)Sump Pump On/Off
3)Skimmer Pump On/Off
4)Halides Overide On/Off
5)Feed Timmer (Pumps off for 13 mins)
6)Auto Topoff (Auto/Off) for doing water changes, so it does not try and topoff when I want water out of the sump
7)Power Heads On/Off
8)Auto Topoff Control (Where the float switches will land into the controller)
9)PC Lights & White Leds Overide On/Off

Here is the plan for the pinouts of outputs (plugs).
1)Heater
2)Sump Pump
3)Skimmer Pump
4)Halides
5)PC Lites
6)White Leds
7)Power Heads
8)Auto Topoff (Aqua Lifter)
9)Fans
10)Fuge Light
11)Alarm


As for the temp thing, I plan to get any probe. put voltage down it, then throw it in water I know the real temp of, and take voltage readings. once I have 2-3 readings in diffrent water temps the voltage between the temps should be scaled exactly proportional. Once I know what that is, then I just pulg in the number into the controller via the analog channel and presto it knows how to read temp via voltage returned from the probe.
We do the same thing at work with a photo cell to control different stages of lighting at dusk and dawn.

Hope that helps Granted I get these units at work for free but they are still cheaper then say an AC Jr.
The base unit is about $95 the addon I/Os is about $45 and a cheapo power supply is like $15, Granted you still need to buy boxes, plugs, and wire to make you own "DC8" but that should not cost much more then $25, and then a temp probe can be cut off a digital one for the tanks you have laying around.

So total out the door cost of the controller $95+$45+$15+$25= $180
Plus your time to design and build it, but that's the fun part for me

~Steve~

 

[jlfnjlf]

I'd like to see the install once you are done.

 

[funman1]

I'm sure I will post pics, and you are more then welcome to come over too

The unit is on order right now, so this should begin when it comes in, this week or next.

 

[pepe.king.prawn]

I'm concerned about it turning off powerheads when the temp reaches 84. This sounds good in theory, since powerheads do produce a very slight amount of heat, but I think dissolved oxygen would be more important at that point, and mixing up the water so the cool water at the surface has a chance to equilibrate the tank. no?

 

[Reefugee]

Tristan - you bring up a very good point. When I first read the post - I thought the same thing. I'd probably leave one PH running. But also add an air stone on an air pump and have it come on when the temp reaches 84F.

 

[funman1]

Right.
But the main system sump pump still runs with the overflow to the sump etc.. and the Mag 5 closed loop will still be running.

You don't need power heads if the main overflow is still running, right?
I might even have the mag 5 shutdown too and just leave overflow and sump pump on. I would think that would be enough?
I don't even have any power heads in the tank yet, and it's doing fine.
Do guys still think they should be left on?

Thanks for the input / questions, this is exactly what I was looking for, (other minds to double check my work)

~Steve~
PS I changed the logic (& pic). I stremlined the gates a bit more so I needed less of them, and spread it all out so it's easier to troubleshoot, read, and add stuff later.

 

[Sparkss]

Maybe I missed it in your list, but are you just using 24v actuated relays to swtich your 120V power on and off ? (for your various equipment) Or are those part of the add-ons ?

 

[funman1]

The relays are built right into the controller (I have no idea what voltage they are).

The controller is 24V powered, and uses 24V inputs and I plan to connect the output realys (internal) to 120VAC

 

[Reefugee]

Steve,

I would turn off the Mag 5 that is part of the closed loop system. Mag pumps produce a lot of heat. They are great during the winter - but horrible during the summer.

Minh

 

[pepe.king.prawn]

I see, didn't realize the return stays on. You can turn off the closed loop. I've had lots of mag drives and never had a heat problem.

 

[funman1]

The good thing about having a mag 5 in closed loop is no water actually around the motor. When I make up water for water changes I throw in a whole mag5 into the 5G bucket and in a few hours it puts the temp to about 90.
So yeah they kick out some heat, but I think not haveing the motor submersed helps keep the heat down alot.

 

[Sparkss]

it will still transfer heat into your tank even when used externally like that, but yes, it will be less than if it were submerged.

 

[funman1]

Hoh I'm sure it will.
Just nothing like being submerged though, like you said..

 

[Brian Prestwood]

Hey Steve

Sounds like a fun project!

 

[boviac]

Very cool! I'd love to see the setup and very nice to get one for free. Let me know if you come across an extra one that may have fallen off a truck persay. JK

 

[funman1]

hahah will do..
More is coming soon