New wavemaker- awesome!!!
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X-FACTOR
New member
Thanks Salty, Your the man!!
I talked to paul on the phone and I am ordering one when they are ready, stay tuned for a full blown write up on these........ Three way ball valves are a thing of the past.
Oh Ya, These are made from solid PVC and are CNC machined, he (paul) said they are around 9 inches square. But because they are plastic they can be mounted anywhere without alot of weight (gotta love that). I think these are the new revolution (pun intended)
I talked to paul on the phone and I am ordering one when they are ready, stay tuned for a full blown write up on these........ Three way ball valves are a thing of the past.
Oh Ya, These are made from solid PVC and are CNC machined, he (paul) said they are around 9 inches square. But because they are plastic they can be mounted anywhere without alot of weight (gotta love that). I think these are the new revolution (pun intended)
Puffer Daddy
Premium Member
Paul,
I was just wondering...Have these ran in a actual reef setting?..(sorry, i read the past post to make sure i didnt miss anything), the reason I ask is I saw the rev. video..I was wondering if there could be, or has there been any problems with the revolutions sticking?..looks like they drop down some, wonder if corraline, algea, etc. could cause a problem on the shafts?...but as I write this, im sure the pressure overrides and takes care of that problem, huh...
I was just wondering...Have these ran in a actual reef setting?..(sorry, i read the past post to make sure i didnt miss anything), the reason I ask is I saw the rev. video..I was wondering if there could be, or has there been any problems with the revolutions sticking?..looks like they drop down some, wonder if corraline, algea, etc. could cause a problem on the shafts?...but as I write this, im sure the pressure overrides and takes care of that problem, huh...
golf nut
Premium Member
Ahh a question from a Rush Fan...good Canadian band
Yes it has been tested in a reef application, the fact that it moves eliminates the build up on the inlet tube, the actual rotating mechanism is in the lower drum and has no growth on it, unlike a clear acryilic unit which gathers diatoms but still continues to function.
I have no idea what will happen in 3 years of use of the "revolution" more than likely nothing, I am sure it will need to be cleaned occasionally, simply un-thread it from the input, pull one pin, clean, replace pin and re-thread where it came from.
total elapsed time 4 minutes.
Paul
Yes it has been tested in a reef application, the fact that it moves eliminates the build up on the inlet tube, the actual rotating mechanism is in the lower drum and has no growth on it, unlike a clear acryilic unit which gathers diatoms but still continues to function.
I have no idea what will happen in 3 years of use of the "revolution" more than likely nothing, I am sure it will need to be cleaned occasionally, simply un-thread it from the input, pull one pin, clean, replace pin and re-thread where it came from.
total elapsed time 4 minutes.
Paul
aznDragonX
In Memoriam
very nice unit!!! hmm..time to get rid of my powerheads..since my MJ1200 killed one of my Rose BTA last night!! :mad2: :mad2:
- Jason
- Jason
Nek
Premium Member
I know this has been asked before, but I dont think it was actually answered. What would be the minimum recommended pump flow (gph) to obtain effective current, and would this number be before or after head/friction loss, and what %age would you estimate lost from friction...... I understand plumbing setup will have an influence, but just throw out a base number.
NeK-
Considering that the mechanism is rotated using a small motor, and is not dependent on water flow for operaton and therefore frictional loss (like a SCWD), the only head loss should come from the 90-degree elbow created by the unit, and then another 90-degree elbow if you use the revolutions. From the RC head-loss calculator, this seems to be a head loss of about .25 ft/90-degree elbow.
It seems that the head loss would basically be no different from whatever other plumbing you would be running as a return system.
Considering that the mechanism is rotated using a small motor, and is not dependent on water flow for operaton and therefore frictional loss (like a SCWD), the only head loss should come from the 90-degree elbow created by the unit, and then another 90-degree elbow if you use the revolutions. From the RC head-loss calculator, this seems to be a head loss of about .25 ft/90-degree elbow.
It seems that the head loss would basically be no different from whatever other plumbing you would be running as a return system.
williamrandel
New member
The price is for the unit only, no pump included. I have ordered an eight way, version 2. According to Paul, the unit can mount anywhere. It has four mounting feet. Doesn't matter if you mount it horizonal or vertical. The only thing to keep in mind is the farther from the top of the tank you mount it, the more plumbing you will have to do.
golf nut
Premium Member
upgraded motor
upgraded motor
Hi Guys
After over fifty phone calls some from the other side of the planet, and after listening to some of the problems that you have found in various pieces of reef equipment, I have decided to upgrade the motor on the 8-way.
I have tested the original motor for over a year and have had no issues, however some of the comments, especially from companies whose livelyhood depends on the dependability of the equipment manufacturers, have given me food for thought.
All 8-ways will have a larger motor installed, although my costs are considerably higher I will not change the original price.
All 4-ways will have the original motor as advertised, the fact that the 4-way has a drum with a diameter of 2.5" means it is already overpowered compared to the 8-way.
The newer motor has another 33% of torque, and therefore is even less likely to have any issues with the reef enviroment, I believe that this decision will be beneficial to all.
Basically you are going to get a V8 for the cost of a V6...
thanx all
Paul
I will post pics of the new set up in the next few days, this will not affect interchangeability, nor will it delay the shipping of units by the beginning of next week.
upgraded motor
Hi Guys
After over fifty phone calls some from the other side of the planet, and after listening to some of the problems that you have found in various pieces of reef equipment, I have decided to upgrade the motor on the 8-way.
I have tested the original motor for over a year and have had no issues, however some of the comments, especially from companies whose livelyhood depends on the dependability of the equipment manufacturers, have given me food for thought.
All 8-ways will have a larger motor installed, although my costs are considerably higher I will not change the original price.
All 4-ways will have the original motor as advertised, the fact that the 4-way has a drum with a diameter of 2.5" means it is already overpowered compared to the 8-way.
The newer motor has another 33% of torque, and therefore is even less likely to have any issues with the reef enviroment, I believe that this decision will be beneficial to all.
Basically you are going to get a V8 for the cost of a V6...
thanx all
Paul
I will post pics of the new set up in the next few days, this will not affect interchangeability, nor will it delay the shipping of units by the beginning of next week.
ahh yes, Canadians getting a taste of the american dream, bigger, faster, stronger.....
Paul,
What Version of the 4 way would you recommend, with my current set-up which is a 90gal currenly plumbed to a Little Giant 4MDXQ which now has 4 - 1/2" loc-line outlets. The flow now is fairly strong now, but I'm afraid that with your device having only 2 of the outlets open at once may be to much, so in your opinion should I go with Version 3?
Are you taking orders yet? If so How to, and how long of a wait time for the 4 way model.
Don
What Version of the 4 way would you recommend, with my current set-up which is a 90gal currenly plumbed to a Little Giant 4MDXQ which now has 4 - 1/2" loc-line outlets. The flow now is fairly strong now, but I'm afraid that with your device having only 2 of the outlets open at once may be to much, so in your opinion should I go with Version 3?
Are you taking orders yet? If so How to, and how long of a wait time for the 4 way model.
Don
Neo_ta-
I asked Paul about hooking up an ampmaster 3000 to a 4-way, version 3, and he thought that it would work out with the 1" "revolutions" and possibly splitting the line down to a spray bar. My plans are to do this, but there will also be a gate valve on the pump, as I doubt my AGA 72G stock overflow can handle all that flow anyway
I asked Paul about hooking up an ampmaster 3000 to a 4-way, version 3, and he thought that it would work out with the 1" "revolutions" and possibly splitting the line down to a spray bar. My plans are to do this, but there will also be a gate valve on the pump, as I doubt my AGA 72G stock overflow can handle all that flow anyway
srfndoc
New member
Hey Paul,
I've been tagging along on this project of yours and look interesting. I think it would help me and others if you had some more photos of these devices installed on different sized tanks so we could get a better idea of our installation options.
In my case, how would I plumb a 4-way to work on a 100gal glass tank with standard bracing? I'm just trying to understand my options with this thing.
Thanks,
Todd
I've been tagging along on this project of yours and look interesting. I think it would help me and others if you had some more photos of these devices installed on different sized tanks so we could get a better idea of our installation options.
In my case, how would I plumb a 4-way to work on a 100gal glass tank with standard bracing? I'm just trying to understand my options with this thing.
Thanks,
Todd
Personally I'm looking at plumbing mine as follows:
1.5" tube up back of tank to 90-degree elbow over edge of tank,
1.5" tube to 90-degree elbow connecting to the unit over my center brace, directly in the center of my tank, with the outlets pointing to the corners, then 1"pipes running to revolutions in the corners.
This is the most logical way I could figure to plumb this thing with the least amount of head (well the smallest number of 90-degree elbows - just trying to reduce the amount of plumbing after the unit). As far as plumbing from the unit to the revolutions, I guess a few 45-degree elbows right off of the unit to run pipes forward and back, then 90-degree elbows to run pipe to the side in order to avoid getting in the way of lights..... or maybe a ton of locline, anyone know where to get about 8' of locline cheap?
Other modifications I was thinking of would be either a "T" in the last section of 1.5" pipe, to run a spray-bar behind my rock-work, or a 4-way in the same location to make a loop for the spray bar as to have even pressure across the entire spray-bar.
any other ideas?
1.5" tube up back of tank to 90-degree elbow over edge of tank,
1.5" tube to 90-degree elbow connecting to the unit over my center brace, directly in the center of my tank, with the outlets pointing to the corners, then 1"pipes running to revolutions in the corners.
This is the most logical way I could figure to plumb this thing with the least amount of head (well the smallest number of 90-degree elbows - just trying to reduce the amount of plumbing after the unit). As far as plumbing from the unit to the revolutions, I guess a few 45-degree elbows right off of the unit to run pipes forward and back, then 90-degree elbows to run pipe to the side in order to avoid getting in the way of lights..... or maybe a ton of locline, anyone know where to get about 8' of locline cheap?
Other modifications I was thinking of would be either a "T" in the last section of 1.5" pipe, to run a spray-bar behind my rock-work, or a 4-way in the same location to make a loop for the spray bar as to have even pressure across the entire spray-bar.
any other ideas?
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