Newbie Corner Feedback Thread

Something that might want to be added for the newbies to the forums would be an acronym list...I know I still have to google some of the acronyms to see what people are talking about!

If I had more time and knowledge, I'd start working on a list...but alas, I am one of the newbs...

-Ash
 
IFYP (I feel your pain) but IDK (I don't know) all the acronyms myself. We do have Acronyms but OMG (Oh my gosh), I haven't seen it updated in years (IHSIUIY).

FYI-Waterkeeper--It's lucky I can even spell acronyms.

:D
 
hey waterkeeper. nice aticle this month! unless i missed it there was no mention of replacing the bed over time. What are your thoughts on this? is it neccessary? i myth that it needs to be after a few years? any insite?
 
I have read in other threads of people having rocks fall because the sand under the rock was moved around by critters.?

The statement in this months newbie article about the mythical south down got me looking around myself. I found this and thought it was pretty funny.

There she blows! A hump like a snow hill!

SouthdownSand-1.jpg



It's a load of aragonite sand coming into Florida for Caribsea. This is a link to the thread. The interesting info is in the 5th post by Amphibious. Anybody else thinking about becoming a pirate? Even then I don't think there are any navigable rivers to Atlanta. JK.

http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/2103-playground-sand-what-use.html
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12496034#post12496034 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by adunne
hey waterkeeper. nice aticle this month! unless i missed it there was no mention of replacing the bed over time. What are your thoughts on this? is it neccessary? i myth that it needs to be after a few years? any insite?

Well, if you have that barge full of aragonite you can replace all you want. ;) Actually when you re-seed an aragonite bed about once a year you usually need not remove sand as the bed dissolves about the same amount as the new seed contributes. With silica sands you probably will need to remove some during the re-seeding as it does not decrease.

Shik,

Not only the cave-in problem but over time the rock settles into the sand. That will make the sand submerged portion of the rock into base rock. Why waste the $$$ ?
 
Over time the beneficial organisms in the bed tend to decline or at least lose diversity. Usually this occurs because of predation. About once a year I like to add some fresh LS to the bed to replenish the lost organisms. It doesn't take too much; about 5-10% of the original beds volume each year. It may even need to be less frequent in a tank with a good sized refugium containing its own deep sand bed.
 
Advise on new setup

Advise on new setup

Hi. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to reply or start a new thread, but since this is the newbie corner feedback thread, I think this is where I should be!

I’m seeking recommendations on a reef tank set-up. My past experience: I set up a 75 gal tank about 6 years ago, my first shot. It was mostly a do-it-yourself. I had the tank drilled and configured with an overflow, lighting for reef, hood fans and reflector, protein skimmer, homemade wet/dry with media for biological filtration. I had some l.r., cycled it and added a few fish. I think I had the lights on too much b/c I was getting green stuff (algae I guess). I ended up going back to school (along w/ working full time and raising a family) and didn’t have the time for it. I never even got to inverts. I took it all down, never to return. I got rid of everything but books. (Including all my notes! Ugg!) But it’s calling me…. The best thing about this new start is now I know more of what I don’t know.

Right now I am in research mode and have bought nothing-- (I did order some more books today based on some postings I read here and on a friend’s recommendation.)

My general plan:
I’d like to minimize the do-it-myself efforts this time by going with a pre-configured tank w/ overflow and an all-in-one wet/dry filtration system (as much as possible). I don’t mind the plumbing and definitely plan to use check valves for ease of maintenance. I would like to contain as much equipment in the stand bottom as possible. Anything outside will be visible, so I’d like to avoid that. I have a little over 4 ft of length to work with, no height or floor weight limitations. I plan to go with between 75 â€"œ 100 gal tank, probably long rather than deep, more due to the footprint of the stand bottom for sump and equipment space, with some preference for this shape due to increase exposure to O2. I plan to go with a wet/dry filtration (is this the same as a trickle filter?) which includes forced water flow through carbon. I plan to use a protein skimmer, a wavemaker, of course pumps and powerheads, and timers. I am considering using a UV sterilizer, buying an RO system, and using a calcium reactor. I am also not sure if I should use a refugium, or if I even have room. I have MUCH more research to do before I’m ready to begin purchasing things, but I am eager to get started. I will probably begin to draft up my design over the next month or so.

I am seeking input for my general plan, recommendations on equipment makes and models, and input if there are things I left out of my plan or things I have in it that I don’t really need. I have attached a preliminary list of equipment I have been working on and would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks!
Kari
 

Attachments

Regarding re-seeding, I do not have a LFS that has any LS of any value.

I do however live very close to the ocean (in Scandinavia). I was therefore thinking: Could it be an idea to take sand from the ocean (here in scandinavia) and use it as LS ? The ocean in scandinavia is (as you probably know) MUCH colder than that surrounding a coral reef, so one might suspect that the critters in the sand would not do well in a reef tank. Any thoughts on this ??
 
Hi Keri
<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>

That's a pretty good list but would it be possible to talk you out of the biofiltration?

Your past problem with algae indicates you had a nutrient problem and my guess the main cause was nitrate build-up from the wet/dry. I would suggest using a sump instead and relying on LR and a DSB to provide the all important biological filtration. That approach will reduce nitrate levels to near zero and help curtail algal outbreaks.

Another item that I really don't feel you need is a UV sterilizer. To me they do little to control disease spreads in the home aquarium. I would use that money to purchase a Phosban reactor or some other phosphate removal system. This also is a key ingredient for alga outbreaks and removing it can save some headaches.

All the lighting choices should be adequate so take your pick. There is a series of articles in <b><a href="http://reefkeeping.com" target="_blank">Reefkeeping Magazine</a></b> that discuss tank set-up beginning with the October 2007 Newbie Corner-Reefkeeping 101, Water. A new subject on setting up the new tank is then available in each monthly issue following the October column. They are -

November 2007-Tank selection and placement
December 2007-Lighting
January 2008-Sumps
February 2008-Completing the initial set-up
April 2008-Natural filtration 1
May 2008-Natural Filtration 2

and next month Part 3 on Natural filtration.

Hope they help.

Roer

You guessed correctly; harvesting your sand form the North Sea is not going to do a lot for a "tropical" reef tank. I'm sure some organisms would survive as well as bacteria but for the most part few could take the 80° F (26.7 temps used in a true reef tank. You may take a look at some of our sponsors to see if you can get some mail order.

However, I'm no expert on the biology of North Sea sand. If you would like to try some then do it this way. Harvest a few pounds of sand and place it in a 4" (~10 cm) bed then heat it to tank temperature. For a couple of days check ammonia levels. If they go up sharply you are getting die-off. After a week or two take a red light and shine it on the bed a hour or two after lights out. If you see copepods and worms moving about it may be OK to use.

This months article, May above, talks about LS extensively.
 
Last edited:
:D Thank you, I am very excited to receive your input. I will begin researching a sump as an option rather than the wet/dry. I was wondering what caused the algae buildup! I have read some on using LR and DSB to keep the nitrates down, so I will explore this new (for me) path. Thanks so much! I will also read all the links you provided. I know near nothing about phosphate removal and the Phosban reactor you mention, so I need to read up on that also.

When I have my design ready for review, would you recommend I post here or the new thread that was just started for newbie questions?

Thanks again!
 
Thank you! I have read over once, need to do it several more times. I'm thinking I should pick up a chemistry cliff notes...
 
My new tank has an external overflow the length of the tank. It's 55" long, 14" deep, and 4" wide. I have two drains with PVC sticking up from the bulkheads about 6". It get's very little light.

The DSB discussion got me thinking. Why not have a DSB in the external overflow? At 4" deep, it will be below the 6" PVC, so it should not impact the drains.

Is this is a good idea? Not sure, but since there is not much light the sand might clump since there won't be many sand shifters. Are there other drawbacks?
 
Sure, you can use a HOB refugium in a small tank. You are only looking at a 15 gallon aquarium so I would suggest finding a small, HOB skimmer that can also serve as a sump.

Check around the Nano reef forum with solutions for the small tank.
 
Back
Top