NJD Reefer 250

So after doing some research on protein skimmers, I have decided on a different one. I'm going with the Reef Octopus classic 152-S. I think it's a good skimmer and offers what I need and want at a better price than the Nyos.


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denubila ...
What were the tipping points? I see price, but what other attributes were appealing to your goals? I'm drooling over a larger RedSea [650?], hopefully coming to fruition sometime this year, and just want to get opinions / info on gear to set it up with.

Thanks for sharing your current build ... enjoying your "journal" here! :)
 
Good luck with your 650! It really is a cool tank.

I went with the RO because I read a lot about tuning issues with the Nyos, specifically that it was sensitive to viscosity change in the water (resulting in cup overflow). I also think that their needle wheel creates micro bubbles that are too fine, and will easily escape back into the main display. That along with the price and the fact that the skimmer cup on the Nyos did not come with a drain, I was wanting another option. I chose the RO 152-2 because RO has a good name, and it is the brand I used on my old tank, I loved it. It also comes with a drain in the skimmer cup and has a build quality similar to that of the Nyos.
 
Just got my order! A Jäger heater, one large mag float (for acrylic) and my RO skimmer!
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I just set up the tank in its permanent home. I'm behind schedule but not a bad thing. I might have to hold off on getting some things as I just found out my cat need surgery. :( alas, It will probably give me extra time to do the things I should do that I'd normally skip over, like a real nitrogen cycle and curing my rocks. Here's a pic with a mock light.
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Congrats on your R250! I just received mine today...

The scape looks good from the front, but a bit bulky (like a pile of boulders) from the left side. I like the two island approach with the gap in between. The overflow probably makes the layout more challenging. In the end, if your tank is filled with healthy corals, no one cares about the rocks anymore. heheh.

Is that a subwoofer right next to the tank? Will the fish be bugged out by that? Not sure...

I would like to hear your impressions of the Sicce pump once you put it to use.
 
Thanks! It looks a lot better in person and there are so many caves that you cant see on the side view because the camera doesn't register the depth, but i think it will be good once everything is up and running.

And yes that is a subwoofer next to the tank. Its really small and doesn't put out a lot of sound so i think it will be fine. At worst I move it to the other side.

Ill keep you updated on the Sicce once I fill the tank.
 
Sweet build! I'm doing a double island build myself and I like the way yours turned out. Maybe put some lighting diffuser on the bottom? It might be too late, but just a thought.


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So I don't usually put light diffusers on the bottom. I know they protect the tank, but they are also plastic, an I'm always afraid of leeching phosphates. I always go for a deeper sand bed for added support. I've also glued the rocks together. That being said, I've always wondered how the light diffusers prevent the snails from sifting that portion of the sand. I don't know how much this hurts/helps?

As for the Sicce, it seems good. My friend recommended the brand to me. It's not loud by any means and it moves water so I can't complain. If I do upgrade it will be to an ecotech controllable. The only think I'd say about the controllable pumps is that if you are on lagoon mode or whatever, it changes the flow and makes the overflow noisier? I'm not sure. Anyways, enjoy and I'll keep you guys updated as I go.


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Sicce pumps..."Not Loud by Any Means". Quite a slogan! heheh.

Seriously, looks good. I like how you opened up the rock a bit in the middle.

Looks like you have 2" + of sand there. I doubt the snails will go down that far, but as the sand shifts with the currents, you may have hollows where the depth is not as great. How many pounds of sand is that?

Regarding the MP10QD: The side and back glass are thinner, close to 3/8", and from what I have read, will allow the MP10wQD to attach. Anchoring the cord for some insurance would not be a bad idea of course.

I had a single MP40 on my last (54g) tank. Those older models could only go as low as 1000 gph minimum. I struggled with getting the perfect flow that would eliminate dead spots and offer more random movement. Using two opposing MP10wQDs in my mind would be preferable. I am also considering a pair of controlled Tunze 6095s or Rossmont MX2600s. That way I could keep them near the back corners and direct the flow diagonally across the tank.
 
@denubila enjoying the thread, please continue with the updates. Following along. I'm considering a Nano or 170 Reefer in the future.
 
Hey, so this is the part I always get apprehensive about. I put some food in the tank to start up the cycle, but I got some seachem stability to add. Is it ok to add fish or do I wait. I have always cycled with food and waited 3-4 weeks but I read so much about the bio active additives. I tested my parameters today, no ammonia, no nitrites, barely and nitrates.


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Q: If I plan to do a fishless cycle and use Stability, do I need to add an ammonia source to kick-start the nitrogen cycle?
A: Yes, for expedited cycling times, you will want to add a pinch of food daily until you have an ammonia reading. At that point, you can stop adding the food and let the bacteria run its course.

I have never used Stability, but the Seachem FAQ clearly says to keep adding food daily until you see an ammonia spike.

If you have not seen the ammonia spike, then continue feeding until you do, then wait for the nitrite/nitrate process to take its course before adding fish.

The question is, does that take 2-3 days or 2-3 weeks?
 
Thanks! I guess I'll just keep testing and hope I see a spike in nitrates eventuall


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