No algae growing back

reefman1234

New member
I have being having some algae problems and then after one clean it just all stop no algae grew back. everything is the same and i haven't added any new animals into my reef tank. The only thing the i have noticed different is my colas look more closed up then usual. Just what to know that everything is ok.
 
I have being having some algae problems and then after one clean it just all stop no algae grew back. everything is the same and i haven't added any new animals into my reef tank. The only thing the i have noticed different is my colas look more closed up then usual. Just what to know that everything is ok.
Welcome to Reef Central.

Sounds like low nutrients however more information about your system would be helpful. What size tank, what corals, what fish, what do you feed, what do you dose, how long has it been running, how often and how much do you water change? Also calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, ph, salinity, nitrate, phosphate levels.
 
What kharmaguru said.

The most important algae (and coral) "food" nutrients are Nitrate and Phosphate, so getting measurements of those will tell us a lot.

Kevin
 
As mentioned more info would be helpful. That being said it is very common for algae to stop growing, even if nitrates and phosphates increase. The algae cycles during cycling a system is an excellent example.
 
Algae gone “in one clean”?
Depends on what that cleaner is.
Corals can close, short term, day hours, but once open they should stay that way until darl
 
Welcome to Reef Central.

Sounds like low nutrients however more information about your system would be helpful. What size tank, what corals, what fish, what do you feed, what do you dose, how long has it been running, how often and how much do you water change? Also calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, ph, salinity, nitrate, phosphate levels.
Thanks for the reply i have two mushrooms, one hammer and one torch coals. i have one clownfish, one bicoloured blenny, one pixy hawkfish and a strawberry basslet in a 70l tank. alkalinity is 9 dkh, ph 8.0, salinity is 1.025, nitrate is 25ppm i dont test calcium and phosphate. i do a 40-50% water change every fortnight, and it has been running for just over a year and a half.

Thanks you so mush for the help.
 
Thanks for the reply i have two mushrooms, one hammer and one torch coals. i have one clownfish, one bicoloured blenny, one pixy hawkfish and a strawberry basslet in a 70l tank. alkalinity is 9 dkh, ph 8.0, salinity is 1.025, nitrate is 25ppm i dont test calcium and phosphate. i do a 40-50% water change every fortnight, and it has been running for just over a year and a half.

Thanks you so mush for the help.
That all looks ok except the water changes are a bit large. However it's a small tank and you said you were having algae problems so I assume that was part of your attack. Can you be more specific about how you cleaned your algae - just manually or did you use an additive like vibrant?
 
Phosphate is important to know - the ratio of nitrate to phosphate is nearly as important as the absolute values of either (100:1 being a good target ratio). Either one can be a limiting nutrient, so zero phosphates, or even .01 phosphates could limit your algae growth. Lack of phosphate could also be why your corals don't look as good. Corals (and algae) need both nitrate and phosphate to grow.

Kevin
 
Phosphate is important to know - the ratio of nitrate to phosphate is nearly as important as the absolute values of either (100:1 being a good target ratio). Either one can be a limiting nutrient, so zero phosphates, or even .01 phosphates could limit your algae growth. Lack of phosphate could also be why your corals don't look as good. Corals (and algae) need both nitrate and phosphate to grow.

Kevin
Ok thanks
 
These are good links to better understand phsophate and nitrate. Keep in mind when ratios are discussed (Redfield ratio) all the dissolved inorganic forms as well as particulate and dissolved organic forms need to be included, not just nitrate and phsophate. Also keep in mind sponges are messing with these nutrients also. And to add another layer of complexity organic and inorganic carbon are also playing their roles.

Nitrogen cycling in hte coral holobiont

BActeria and Sponges

Maintenance of Coral Reef Health (refferences at the end)

Richard Ross What's up with phosphate"


Fig 4 from "Phosphorus metabolism of reef organisms with algal symbionts"
DIP DOP POP.jpg

Fig 3 from "Context Dependant Effects of Nutrient Loading on the Coral-Algal Mutualism"
Context‐dependent effects of nutrient loading on the coral–algal mutualism(1).png
 
25ppm nitrate not out of bounds year plus system, but, must be balanced with phosphate.
Too much phosphate ( say in your case north of .2ppm) can slow coral growth and combined with white light, fuel pest algaes, not necessarily the ones our corals absorb, or zero, with is usually followed by Dinos, a major PITA and will irritate corals at the least, kill if not controlled.

To a large extent, it’s not so much the actual level (still important) but more for how long the parameters, especially, salinity, temp and ALK, have not changed……For example…..my Alk is 11.5dkh (so high) but if tested at the same time each day, it’s stays 11.5dkh, give or take 1-2ppm, and has been that way for years.

Your water change is too much, that itself will destabilized your chemistry.

10-15% is plenty, the more frequent, the less impact on stability.

Stability is King!
 
25ppm nitrate not out of bounds year plus system, but, must be balanced with phosphate.
Too much phosphate ( say in your case north of .2ppm) can slow coral growth and combined with white light, fuel pest algaes, not necessarily the ones our corals absorb, or zero, with is usually followed by Dinos, a major PITA and will irritate corals at the least, kill if not controlled.

To a large extent, it’s not so much the actual level (still important) but more for how long the parameters, especially, salinity, temp and ALK, have not changed……For example…..my Alk is 11.5dkh (so high) but if tested at the same time each day, it’s stays 11.5dkh, give or take 1-2ppm, and has been that way for years.

Your water change is too much, that itself will destabilized your chemistry.

10-15% is plenty, the more frequent, the less impact on stability.

Stability is King!
Awesome thanks will do
 
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