no more bubbles on my bta

that's really awesome !! how big or old do they have to be to split and how common is it for one to do so. what size was the original tank and the bigger one? also how did you get all that coraline algae to grow on the tank walls. the all nem tank is amazing


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Thanks. When it was small, I tried feeding it pieces of silversides every other day. It started growing pretty fast and when it went from a half dollar size to 8" in diameter, it split. I think it was around 6 months. I kept feeding them and they kept splitting over time. Stopped feeding them when I had around 15. Went from 30g to 50g. It started splitting in the 50. I had very liitle coralline until I switched to oceanic salt. I had used Red Sea and other salt mixes and never saw coralline take off. I tried purple up and other additions. Nothing helped until the switch.
 
Mine, in the pics above, split within a couple weeks of getting it. It was only anout 2-3" across (really small) when it split.i was feeding krill every other day. 2 of the 3 clones looked really bad at first, but all three took off in growth and regained their color quickly. All three are now the size of the original, and its only been a month and a half since the split.
 
i upped his feeding to twice a week he is doing really well now he's opened up completely for the majority of the time id say he deflates once every 48 hrs for about two hours or so. I've only had him about a week and a half but he appears to have grown already is that possible ? he attached to a live rock and never moved since i put him in and is snuggled cosily into a crevice in it. ill try to post a pic. a little off topic but if i scrape some coraline from a live rock and put into power head would that help it grow on tank walls?


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Sounds like your nem is fine and happy. Scraping the coralline and getting in the water column should help spread it.
 
As an amateur BTA owner I can only fathom one guess about why the bubble tip anemones have bubbles sometimes and not others. I ordered my anemone in the mail and when it was first in my tank it was very bubbly. After a while it started to get stringier, but it still looked very healthy. It also goes through this mini-cycle every morning when the T5's go on. I believe that the reason that it is bubbly in the mornings is because it is adjusting to the brighter light and once it's adjusted it goes back to stringy (just like in shipping it was dark while in packaging). I have some new lights in the mail that are much brighter and I'll let you know if the brighter lights make it bubble up more.
 
mine keep bubbly when fed atleast once every 2 weeks nomatter water params and also I only light the tank for 6 Hrs after too much light they get stringy
 
I have had one for about 9 months or so and not long after I purchased it, the bubbles significantly reduced. They do come and go but nothing like when I first purchased. And I was at the shop today and they have 3-4 that are all bubbly. The bubbles are way out on the end of the fingers and when I do get bubbles they are more in the middle of the fingers. The shop runs MHL lights and I use T5 so I was wondering if that was the reason. Also, I have never fed my BTA. It seems healthy though! Also my clowns just recently decided they like it. And really, the anemone seems happier since it started hosting the clowns.

Clownfish-in-Anemone-L.jpg
 
dude i have those exact same zoas that are surrounding your rbta. They are purple on outside and fade to that really pretty green color and they are much larger than my others. they came in a "frag pack" so i dont know what they are called any ideas? BTW i hope my bta looks like that one day i just realized a few days ago that the t5 ho lights i was sold 2 months ago when i got the nem that they are actually not ho. now them nem is hanging on by a thread but i got new lights and target feeding him every day trying to revive him. its day two and his green color that was completely gone has returned and hes a little more perky but no tentacles:-(
 
A little off topic but if i scrape some coraline from a live rock and put into power head would that help it grow on tank walls

Someone was talknig about using a toothbrush and letting it float in the water about one a week. Someone else said to make sure the UV light was turned off.

I just started with my CA (Coraline Algae) on three new LR about a month ago. SO I am letting it cycle and get strong before I try this.

Here is a pic of my three rocks. (Yes my clowns drink beer)
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UwI6NSts3sNAnY_B7GssQhDXUPzYGINoAnhxP13obHw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MYl_selTc5I/UAyjrgmYiII/AAAAAAAA1nQ/SsFQxLxVLoU/s800/2012-07-22_21-05-15_776.jpg" height="451" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/100665886462363731490/FishTank2012?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCK765-eR0cChGg&feat=embedwebsite">FishTank 2012</a></td></tr></table>
 
Hi.....as a long term BTA keeper and observer, I find BTA tend to maintain a bubble appearance under high intensity lighting and relatively high flow conditions....

Unfortunately in a reef tank this either forces the anemone to seek lower light conditions and areas of lower flow.....no win situation....they are still very beautiful with the long flowing green tentacles with bright purple tips....
 
Hi.....as a long term BTA keeper and observer, I find BTA tend to maintain a bubble appearance under high intensity lighting and relatively high flow conditions....

Unfortunately in a reef tank this either forces the anemone to seek lower light conditions and areas of lower flow.....no win situation....they are still very beautiful with the long flowing green tentacles with bright purple tips....

This makes sense to me as the RBTA's at the shop where I bought mine are in shallow water under Metal Halide lighting and mine is in a deeper tank under T5 lighting. Every RBTA in the shop has large bubble tips whereas mine do not. Although now that I have moved mine higher in the tank, the bubbles are larger.

Can you say which is the more natural state for this species?

Thanks!
 
Mine is under 250w 20k radiums, but still have no bubbles. It is a RBTA over a foot wide.
IMG_0246.jpg


IMG_0238.jpg


From that wiki article I gathered that perhaps, the older the BTA gets, the less bubbles they may have?
 
Nice pic. My gbtas (all from splits from a single nem bought back in 2006) used to have longer tentacles but now they are shorter but now have bubbles. I wonder if it could be due to the light. I have 2x 175W MHs. Over the years, I have switched between Hamilton's 14K (no bubbles), XM's 14K (no bubbles), Iwasaki (some bubbles), Ushio 14K (some bubbles) to Ushio 10K (bubbles yay).
 
Mine is under 250w 20k radiums, but still have no bubbles. It is a RBTA over a foot wide.

From that wiki article I gathered that perhaps, the older the BTA gets, the less bubbles they may have?

250W lighting would be bright enough, however 10K to 14K may assist in maintaining the bubble formations. 400W would be better...

I have seen long term tank anemones in Australia under 2 x 400W halides supplemented by sunlight and royal blue LEDs with beautiful bubble formation....even wider than 12" when extended....
 
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Maybe that's it then. The color spectrum. Which would make sense, the higher up the reef you go the less blue there is in the light. I just like the way the 20k looks. The anemone was under 14k lights and didn't have bubbles then either, for what it's worth. There is no way I will go to 10k, hehe.:lol2:
 
FWIW I've had four clones of the same rbta in 4 different tanks under different lighting and they never bubbled from day one. T5, 20k 400w halides of different brands, always enough light to grow sps on the bottom. I've always had high flow, 80-110x turnover in the display.
 
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