Noisiest overflow EVER!! HELP!!

Sorry to come off that way, I just like to question so I can fully understand it....

I really do appreciate your help, all of you.

beananimal, how big of a calfo would you install?
 
i would install it the length of the tank...as that is how they are designed to be done...

i did a simple quick 5 min paint job to illustrate how i would do it..

slightly modified design...which will completely eliminate the look and intrusivness of an internal overflow...the 45* glass baffle will almost dissapear in the tank as the water refracts the light...

use black glass...if the back of your tank is painted black...if it is blue leave the baffle natural glass colour.

you will have to modify the "T", and the Elbow...also i have included the airline as Bean mentioned...where in the case of a slight obstruction causing the water level to rise, a full siphon will be created once the air line is blocked by the higher water..and as mentioned it will continuously flush and what not as the siphon is broken and created...by rising and lowering water level inside the overflow box...also if you use a Street El' you would be able to cut it off so it is almost flat against the back glass of the tank once installed..i use a slip fitting with a couple wraps of teflon...although i dont think the in tank fitting has to be water tight..

caflooverflo.jpg
 
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very interesting! I kinda like that better than the square one. Black glass, is it easy to come by? Wait why do I ask that! I know right where to get it!
 
Bean, if you use a 1.5" PVC tube and slice it 1/4" wide, you can use it to surface skim and it take minimal place in the take.

You can also adjust the water level by rotating the tube
 
At what level do you like to keep the water at in this tank?
Whatever that height is, subtract !/4" to determine how low the glass should be from the rim. The quarter inch is to compensate for the sheeting effect (or flow) over the edge of the glass.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11572063#post11572063 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Icefire
Bean, if you use a 1.5" PVC tube and slice it 1/4" wide, you can use it to surface skim and it take minimal place in the take.

You can also adjust the water level by rotating the tube
Click to expand...

this is what i was talking about in the first post of this page...but again, you have to make sure the groove is long enough and wide enough to fully compensate for the cross-sectional area of the bulkhead....

only problem is with too much flow this setup wont work either and he will be in the same boat he is in already...water above the pipe=no surface skimming...
 
I place the top edge of overflow even with the lower edge of the trim. That way the tank water level is never lower than the trim.
 
ok I have redone my overflow as you guys have recommended here are some pics, i am pretty happy with it!

<a href="http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/?action=view&current=IMG_2308.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/IMG_2308.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/?action=view&current=IMG_2306.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/IMG_2306.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/?action=view&current=IMG_2304.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/IMG_2304.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Nice job on the horizontal overflow. You now have superb surface skimming!

I do not see a hole in the standpipe cap...

This leads me to believe that you are still relying on a full siphon. If that is the case, you WILL have a flood sooner than you think :)
 
sweet just like said...you wouldnt even be able to see it from the front....very nice job...but again i would be worried about clog and overflow...

how much water does the return section of your sump hold? ...because if you subtract half a gallon from that, that is how much water ill end up on your floor if the drain clogs..
 
There is a hole in the standpipe, i guess it could just not be seen in the picture, its probably 1/16 i think, if i remember correctly. here is a better pic showing the hole :)

<a href="http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/?action=view&current=IMG_2309.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/hyrumbradshaw/IMG_2309.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

and my return section of the fuge probably holds 3 or 4 gallons, but i dont keep that all the way full just in case of pump problems or power outages.....It should be flood safe.
 
The sump is not what you need to be concerned about. The single standpipe is something you are going to have to keep an eye on. If it clogs (or slows down) your display will overflow.

You can get some wiggle room by tapping that hole and inserting a john guest (watts at Lowes) valve. Seal it in with teflon tape! Attach the air line as shown in the drawing in the previous page. Use the valve to adjust the amount of air as needed. The setup will allow a full siphon to form of the standpipe starts to backup.
 
i only mentioned the return section of the sump as an FYI...if it has 3 gallons of water in it...and your drain clogs...then you will still pump that 3 gallons to the display tank...at which point the tank will hold about another gallon or so depending how far down the trim you have the top of the overflow box...the rest of the water will then go onto the floor...2 or so gallons isnt going to make too big a mess...

but in my old sump my return section was approximately 5 gallons...my drain plugged up and man let me tell you 5 gallons sure makes one heck of a mess on a carpet..my new sump...post explosion has a 7 gallon return section..LOL but i have 0 chance of flood as there is an open 1.5" drain straight to the sump...i have actually found my 6 line down there before...little bugger used to squeeze between the teeth in the overflow..
 
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