Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Like I said, I'm amazed and lucky that my tank survived in this environment...weird.
North Dakota Mini-Ocean
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Okay, I am at the end of my knowledge or know how on this...I changed out every filter, the RO membrane, and the DI resin and i am still getting 335ppm on the output after the dual DI. The input of my house water after 2 carbon filters is 250ppm, so its actually getting worse running through the RO/DI unit. I see the line coming from the two carbon pre-filters is running through a TDS-In meter then to the booster pump then to the sediment and carbon filters then into a block and out to the RO housing and then one port to the waste and one port to a shut off valve and then to the dual DI and then the TDS-Out then to the holding tank. So I checked and rechecked the lines and everything looks right. So what could be wrong?
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
They are the way they have always been.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Hmmmmm haven't checked that out...good idea.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Couple updates...
A couple buddies in Fargo came over last night and we got the RO unit fixed. We don't really know what was exactly wrong, but we changed the RO tubing and changed the TDS placement. We also got the profilux and 12 tunzes put into a wall cabinet and all the wires organized. Lastly, I got the carbon, phosphate, kalk, and calcium reactors back online and programmed. I have the ozone, uv, denitrator, and digital ato hooked up but just not programmed
Also, I have decided to switch to 10k metal halide bulbs and add 300 watts atinic T5.
A couple buddies in Fargo came over last night and we got the RO unit fixed. We don't really know what was exactly wrong, but we changed the RO tubing and changed the TDS placement. We also got the profilux and 12 tunzes put into a wall cabinet and all the wires organized. Lastly, I got the carbon, phosphate, kalk, and calcium reactors back online and programmed. I have the ozone, uv, denitrator, and digital ato hooked up but just not programmed
Also, I have decided to switch to 10k metal halide bulbs and add 300 watts atinic T5.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
My par is horrible (500) at the top of the tank just below water line. I am just running radiums now for 6 hours per day.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
I just got a free brand new glass 125 gallon. What should I do with it?
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Pictures!!! I still have some cleaning up to do, but here is the room much more organized.
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
ccampbell57
Premium Member
Hey David - long time! Glad to see things are on line again.
I would make your 125 a nice big QT. Set that bad boy up and get it ready for your restocking...
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
Yes thats what I was thinking too
Reefaquariumnut
Premium Member
I changed some RO lines and cleaned up the unit and found a faulty TDS probe. But even with the probe faulty there was something wrong. So, we cleaned up some parts and now its working perfectly. The pure water is really helping the tank out tremendously. I think the carbon and phosphate is starting to polish the water as well.
On a side note, I ordered new metal halide bulbs and T5 fixtures for supplemental lighting. Also, I got some LED lighting for twilight hours.
On a side note, I ordered new metal halide bulbs and T5 fixtures for supplemental lighting. Also, I got some LED lighting for twilight hours.
jnarowe
New member
I have some extra LED Moonlights! 
Something you may want to research is whether you would get any benefit from ventilating the ballasts. I think you may actually get some energy savings as well as extend their useful life by mounting a fan or two blowing on them.
So you remember what you sealed the floor with? I found that the HD floor sealer really did not do the job. In fact over time, the saltwater really eroded some areas. Currently I am re-doing the room, and stepped up to a Tennant Hardener/Sealer. AFAIK they are the best in the business and provide low and zero VOC coatings & sealers. The one I have now is just slightly more viscous than water, and just as clear. No odor whatsoever.
Something you may want to research is whether you would get any benefit from ventilating the ballasts. I think you may actually get some energy savings as well as extend their useful life by mounting a fan or two blowing on them.
So you remember what you sealed the floor with? I found that the HD floor sealer really did not do the job. In fact over time, the saltwater really eroded some areas. Currently I am re-doing the room, and stepped up to a Tennant Hardener/Sealer. AFAIK they are the best in the business and provide low and zero VOC coatings & sealers. The one I have now is just slightly more viscous than water, and just as clear. No odor whatsoever.
