LFS_worker
'ignoramus maximus'
mel CF has the medicine to treat them I'd personally treat ASAP.
Brian
Brian
Not good... not good at all...
- Thread starter dreaminmel
- Start date
nwrogers
Got gorgs?
That is totally true people should quarantine all incoming SPS corals. I have an SPS quarantine tank but I never use it. I really should because everything you are saying is true. TMPCC does not kill the eggs so quarantine is the only way to be 100% sure. This hobby can be such a pain sometimes. Good luck with the treatments!
dreaminmel
New member
nwrogers
Got gorgs?
dreaminmel
New member
dang Nate, we posted that at exactly the same time =)
dreaminmel
New member
Fragfarmer's page (look near the bottom of pg 2)
They currently have it in stock. I got mine off eBay but can't currently find any listed there.
They currently have it in stock. I got mine off eBay but can't currently find any listed there.
dreaminmel
New member
Update
Every last sps is now in QT. I ended up going w/ a 55 gallon in hopes it'd give me more stability w/ water params seeing how I'm going to have everything in there for at least 3 months. They're all lookin' pretty ticked off from the dips but no signs of actual die off or anything like that. Colors are definately going pale but health is my only concern at this point. I already know from when I had everything in the 72 gallon w/ pc lighting that they can still live and grow w/out color so I have no doubts that 3 months from now when they go back in the 125 that the colors will return.
The only other coral so far to show flatworms is the green stag that was next to the efflo. 3 flatworms came off.
I'll update again when there's something to actually report. =)
Every last sps is now in QT. I ended up going w/ a 55 gallon in hopes it'd give me more stability w/ water params seeing how I'm going to have everything in there for at least 3 months. They're all lookin' pretty ticked off from the dips but no signs of actual die off or anything like that. Colors are definately going pale but health is my only concern at this point. I already know from when I had everything in the 72 gallon w/ pc lighting that they can still live and grow w/out color so I have no doubts that 3 months from now when they go back in the 125 that the colors will return.
The only other coral so far to show flatworms is the green stag that was next to the efflo. 3 flatworms came off.
I'll update again when there's something to actually report. =)
dreaminmel
New member
Well... here's the result.
I was losing corals daily in the QT tank even though all parameters were testing out the same as the display. My guess is that some of them weren't too happy with the TMPCC dip strength I was using. (I was on a mission to kill and collateral damage wasn't wanted but I guess was inevitable.) Out of all the sps I had in QT 16 survived and underwent fragging and one last dip before going back into the display. There are a few others that may come back from the small encrustations that were left behind on the live rock. At this point I believe I am in the clear as there are no signs of bite marks or dieoff. All surviving sps are coloring back up already.
I also changed my halides from two 400w 20k XMs to two 400w 10k XMs. Still waiting for this new tank color to grow on me... I'm running two super actinic 5ft vhos w/ these new bulbs and it still seems yellow to me but everyone else that looks at the tank says it's just brighter and not yellow... most important, the sps seem to love the new lighting.
I haven't quite breathed my sigh of relief yet but am hopeful that the war has been won. We shall see. =)
What kills me about all of this is that my wild A. divaricata went through all of this with flying colors while a lot of my locally obtained frags suffered greatly. This has given me a greater respect for wild corals even though I did lose both of the wild A. tenius in the ordeal.
I was losing corals daily in the QT tank even though all parameters were testing out the same as the display. My guess is that some of them weren't too happy with the TMPCC dip strength I was using. (I was on a mission to kill and collateral damage wasn't wanted but I guess was inevitable.) Out of all the sps I had in QT 16 survived and underwent fragging and one last dip before going back into the display. There are a few others that may come back from the small encrustations that were left behind on the live rock. At this point I believe I am in the clear as there are no signs of bite marks or dieoff. All surviving sps are coloring back up already.
I also changed my halides from two 400w 20k XMs to two 400w 10k XMs. Still waiting for this new tank color to grow on me... I'm running two super actinic 5ft vhos w/ these new bulbs and it still seems yellow to me but everyone else that looks at the tank says it's just brighter and not yellow... most important, the sps seem to love the new lighting.
I haven't quite breathed my sigh of relief yet but am hopeful that the war has been won. We shall see. =)
What kills me about all of this is that my wild A. divaricata went through all of this with flying colors while a lot of my locally obtained frags suffered greatly. This has given me a greater respect for wild corals even though I did lose both of the wild A. tenius in the ordeal.
nwrogers
Got gorgs?
Good news about the corals finally going back in the tank! I switched from 20k to 10k and felt the same way you are feeling. 10k is too yellow! I ended up switching back to the 20k because I couldn’t stand it! I still couldn’t help feeling that the corals would look better under a 10k bulb though so I added two 175 watt 10k MH and I must say it is a match made in heaven. I finally found the perfect bulb temperature for both viewing and coral coloration. 
dreaminmel
New member
Thanks Nate... I just may do that eventually. For now I'm going to give the 10k a few months to grow on me and see if it really does make the corals grow faster. Before the war my sps were growing an average of an inch per month.
The corals went back into the display WAY before schedule. I wanted to QT them for at least 3 months to make sure all aefw were killed including any hatchlings but at the rate of rtn in the QT I gave up and decided they'd have a better chance of survival in my display. I won't be adding any new sps. Either the ones I have will survive and thrive or I will have an lps, softy and zoanthid tank.
I am hopeful the war was won due to the following reasons:
-I removed all sps to QT upon the first findings of the aefw on one of the corals. There were both adults and hatchlings on that coral. Maybe the adults didn't have a chance to lay any eggs before they got zapped w/ the super strength dip process...
-After that first dip I did 3 more between QT period and placement back into the display. No further aefw were found during any of those 3 dips.
-No signs of aefw are seen on any of the sps in the display now.
All in all that doesn't really mean anything. I have read so many experiences with these things where people think they have them beat only for them to show up again 3 months later.
I'm wondering at this point if I go a year with no signs of them and my sps need trimming if at that point it would be safe to sell a couple frags...? Of course, my tank is marked from now on and anyone would be forewarned about my aefw experience but how long before I can be comfortable enough to even sell frags and know I'm not passing the problem to others?
The corals went back into the display WAY before schedule. I wanted to QT them for at least 3 months to make sure all aefw were killed including any hatchlings but at the rate of rtn in the QT I gave up and decided they'd have a better chance of survival in my display. I won't be adding any new sps. Either the ones I have will survive and thrive or I will have an lps, softy and zoanthid tank.
I am hopeful the war was won due to the following reasons:
-I removed all sps to QT upon the first findings of the aefw on one of the corals. There were both adults and hatchlings on that coral. Maybe the adults didn't have a chance to lay any eggs before they got zapped w/ the super strength dip process...
-After that first dip I did 3 more between QT period and placement back into the display. No further aefw were found during any of those 3 dips.
-No signs of aefw are seen on any of the sps in the display now.
All in all that doesn't really mean anything. I have read so many experiences with these things where people think they have them beat only for them to show up again 3 months later.
I'm wondering at this point if I go a year with no signs of them and my sps need trimming if at that point it would be safe to sell a couple frags...? Of course, my tank is marked from now on and anyone would be forewarned about my aefw experience but how long before I can be comfortable enough to even sell frags and know I'm not passing the problem to others?
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
If you sell frags give the purchaser fair warning. It should be the purchasers responsibility to make infomed decisions about QT, treatment etc. (IMO).
I mean- you can get AEFW's from wild caught corals. I suspect LFS's holding tanks would have a lot of undesirable pests in them simply because of the nature of their business (ie: corals coming in and out in endless rotation.)
I mean- you can get AEFW's from wild caught corals. I suspect LFS's holding tanks would have a lot of undesirable pests in them simply because of the nature of their business (ie: corals coming in and out in endless rotation.)
