Nuisance algae, need help!

[graff71884]

So I've been fighting this mystery algae now for about 2 months. It seems to only grow in well lit areas, as it is in my DT in bright areas and also in my fuge, but not the rest of my sump where there is no direct light. It seems to blow off to some extent, but it takes a lot of force from a turkey baster. It also scrubs off with a toothbrush, but always seems to leave a thin, slimey layer behind. I've been told it is cotton candy algae, but mine really doesn't have much pink color to it (first pic shows the best color of it). It's mostly yellowish white as you can see in the pics. It grows on some of my rocks as well as between quite a few zoa/paly colonies.

For a little reference, I have a 40g breeder with a 30g sump that has been established for 4+ years. I do weekly 20g water changes with Red Sea Coral Pro. I run GFO and carbon 24/7 as well as a skimmer. 2 MP10's for flow and a Radion G2 with wide angle lenses.
pH-8.3
Ca-410-420
Alk-9
NO3-0
PO4-.03
Temp-78

Any thoughts on what this garbage is and how I can rid my tank of it?

 

[graff71884]

It would help if the pictures worked!

Thanks for any help!

 

[scooter31707]

Looks to be bubble algae. I have no experience if this, but I have heard emerald crabs makes quick work of it. I also heard that dosing Fluconazole will kill it. Do a search using Fluconazole and there are some nice write-ups about it.

 

[lewismw]

suck up what exists and do water changes...cyano algea / bacteria ....this is a result of poor water quality and high phosphate caused from detritus etc.
Clean water and correct phosphate / nitrite /nitrate levels will not grow this stuff. Also it thirves on light so you can strave it of light to reduce it ...but ultimately you need to clean the water up.

 

[graff71884]

suck up what exists and do water changes...cyano algea / bacteria ....this is a result of poor water quality and high phosphate caused from detritus etc.
Clean water and correct phosphate / nitrite /nitrate levels will not grow this stuff. Also it thirves on light so you can strave it of light to reduce it ...but ultimately you need to clean the water up.

20g weekly water changes on a 60g system with 0 nitrates and .03 phosphates. What more can I do?

 

[wildman926]

20g weekly water changes on a 60g system with 0 nitrates and .03 phosphates. What more can I do?

Short term, use API's Algaefix Marine. Once hair algae is gone, good water changes.

Long term, launch an algae turf scrubber (aka ATS), and grow the hair algae where you want to. It will outcompete the display tank for nutrient export. At the least, have chaeto in the sump, but not as effective as an ATS.

This is my experience for the last 3 years, on a 150g, and 90g.

 

[jenkinscrew2578]

Blow your rock work off before a water change and vacuum the sandbed during the next water change.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

 

[outssider]

your snails wont eat it ??

 

[graff71884]

your snails wont eat it ??

All I have are Nassarius right now and they don't touch it.

 

[NS Mike D]

20g weekly water changes on a 60g system with 0 nitrates and .03 phosphates. What more can I do?

fwiw, if my N drops faster than my P, I get cyano. Something about the balance of the two that keeps the algae/cyano under control. I run some GFO and it clears up - but I keep my N around .25 - .50 so .03 would be a good P for me.

 

[outssider]

All I have are Nassarius right now and they don't touch it.

try some Mexican turbo snails. They should eat it...

 

[artieg]

A Sea Hare will eat that. It wiped out all my algae.