nw indiana looking for help with 120g 60in long
- Thread starter ameelou73
- Start date
philagothos
New member
Drill it. Drilling really isn't very complicated or difficult, and then you don't have to worry about a siphon failure like you would with an overflow box. Plus you will have made a pretty strong commitment to having a sump.
philagothos
New member
You can drill the back of the tank near the top. I don't like overflow boxes. My theory is: If it can fail, it will (and probably when I'm out of town). I am currently setting up a 40 gallon with a 30 refuge above it and a 29 sump below. Both the 40 and 30 will have dual drains in case one fails. I like redundancy in case something goes wrong.
wow I guess so. How do I go about drilling my tank. Can I take it somewhere. I am a little skeptical about loosing my warranty but, I have heard a lot about thid flooding issue. Though does it help if it never looses siphon? That is what the man said about this box I ordered. Thanks
philagothos
New member
I've not heard of an overflow box that NEVER loses siphon. It might not lose it easily, but it can still happen. I like kicking Murphy out of my life and especially out of my tank.
You're close enough to Chicago that the people in the CMAS forum might be able to give you a hand with drilling. It's not too complicated and if done properly should not make your tank any more prone to failure. There are quite a few threads in the DIY forum that address how to do it right.
Start by figuring out how big of a sump you can realisticly fit in your stand. Then figure out how much flow you want through your sump. Find a pump that matches. Then figure out how large of a drain you need, as well as how big of a linear flow. If you're as paranoid as I am, put one drain and overflow on each end, each one big enough to handle your return pump. I plan on staggering the height of my overflow a little so that the second will not be used unless the first fails. Doing it this way you will have a backup in case of failure that is totally able to handle the job until you are able to get the first one fixed.
As far as figuring out which pumps, sizes of return plumbing, size of overflow, etc the calculators on the RC Home Page are very good for all of this.
You're close enough to Chicago that the people in the CMAS forum might be able to give you a hand with drilling. It's not too complicated and if done properly should not make your tank any more prone to failure. There are quite a few threads in the DIY forum that address how to do it right.
Start by figuring out how big of a sump you can realisticly fit in your stand. Then figure out how much flow you want through your sump. Find a pump that matches. Then figure out how large of a drain you need, as well as how big of a linear flow. If you're as paranoid as I am, put one drain and overflow on each end, each one big enough to handle your return pump. I plan on staggering the height of my overflow a little so that the second will not be used unless the first fails. Doing it this way you will have a backup in case of failure that is totally able to handle the job until you are able to get the first one fixed.
As far as figuring out which pumps, sizes of return plumbing, size of overflow, etc the calculators on the RC Home Page are very good for all of this.
WOW you are very helpful. Thank you. I am almost afraid to admit that I am unable to figure out how to begin to understand how much flow I need or size of pump. I just don't get it. It makes sense to my brain but that is where the doss loop begins. I have more common sense than my brain and it is just lost info. I have a 120 gal and I my sump because of the stand can't be any wider than 13in and not longer than 18 to 19in that is with me putting a hole in the back of the stand plenty of room for height. So where does this put me? Amy
philagothos
New member
It sounds like you are going to have a hard time fitting a sump in there. No wider than 13" is not too big of a problem, but if it can only be 18-19" long... that might be a problem. Even a 10 gallon (probably not big enough for your needs) is 20" long.
How about some questions to make sure we are headed in the right direction. Why do you want a sump? What do you plan on putting in the sump? Are you wanting most of your flow to come from the return pump or are you going to use powerheads (my preference) for flow? Do you want the return pump to be external or internal?
For my own personal tank, I am only using the sump for holding the skimmer, heaters, and return pump. Some people try to use the sump as a refuge, but I'm not sure how well the critters survive the trip through the return pump. That's why I'm putting my refuge above the tank, so it can gravity feed to the main tank and hopefully more critters will survive. Also, the new Hydor Koralia powerheads are VERY impressive. DFS is sold out and PA will be getting them soon. A couple of the Koralia 4's should set you up nicely.
Some people also like to grow macroalgae in the sump. It helps to compete with the annoying microalgaes in the tank. Also, if put on a reverse photoperiod from the tank, it can help stabalize pH fluctations.
With an external return pump you will save space in the sump and add less heat to the water. The downside is that you then have to drill your sump as well (not really that big of a downside).
The more stuff you want to do, the bigger it needs to be. So, what do you want to do with it?
How about some questions to make sure we are headed in the right direction. Why do you want a sump? What do you plan on putting in the sump? Are you wanting most of your flow to come from the return pump or are you going to use powerheads (my preference) for flow? Do you want the return pump to be external or internal?
For my own personal tank, I am only using the sump for holding the skimmer, heaters, and return pump. Some people try to use the sump as a refuge, but I'm not sure how well the critters survive the trip through the return pump. That's why I'm putting my refuge above the tank, so it can gravity feed to the main tank and hopefully more critters will survive. Also, the new Hydor Koralia powerheads are VERY impressive. DFS is sold out and PA will be getting them soon. A couple of the Koralia 4's should set you up nicely.
Some people also like to grow macroalgae in the sump. It helps to compete with the annoying microalgaes in the tank. Also, if put on a reverse photoperiod from the tank, it can help stabalize pH fluctations.
With an external return pump you will save space in the sump and add less heat to the water. The downside is that you then have to drill your sump as well (not really that big of a downside).
The more stuff you want to do, the bigger it needs to be. So, what do you want to do with it?
I am so excited that you are so informative. I would like to have the sump be a place for skimmer heater and just the overall health of my system. I am also gonna have a fluval xf5 no power heads in my tank. I plan to use that fx5 to do my pumping for the sump somehow because that pump is I believe strong enough to do the job I just need a plan
philagothos
New member
The FX5 is only rated at 925 gph (and I don't know if that accounts for head loss). That will only give 7.7X turnover (assuming no head loss). Also, many people say that canister filters like that are nitrate bombs waiting to explode. I've never used them, so I can't say from personal experience.
Your goal for turnover should be 10X at the absolute least. I prefer 20-30X. Also, slower flow through your sump allows more contact time with the heaters and skimmer. If you don't like having powerheads in the aquarium you can always drill for a closed loop. I suggest running about 2X the tank volume through the sump each hour (in your case 240gph). This allows for good contact time with heaters and skimmer.
Also, have you decided on your skimmer yet? If you get one that can run externally, that will also save some space in the sump.
At first I thought this might be an impossible task, but I'm starting to see the light on this one. A 15 tall (20 x 10 x 17 tall), centered in the stand, with an external return pump on one side and external skimmer on the other and this just might work. Speaking of work, I need to get ready to go. Good luck!
Your goal for turnover should be 10X at the absolute least. I prefer 20-30X. Also, slower flow through your sump allows more contact time with the heaters and skimmer. If you don't like having powerheads in the aquarium you can always drill for a closed loop. I suggest running about 2X the tank volume through the sump each hour (in your case 240gph). This allows for good contact time with heaters and skimmer.
Also, have you decided on your skimmer yet? If you get one that can run externally, that will also save some space in the sump.
At first I thought this might be an impossible task, but I'm starting to see the light on this one. A 15 tall (20 x 10 x 17 tall), centered in the stand, with an external return pump on one side and external skimmer on the other and this just might work. Speaking of work, I need to get ready to go. Good luck!
ok so your a math man. I was hoping that the xf5 could be my answer. But yes the dimensions you have come up with would work and yes the external skimmer would work. I love this site. But I am not out of the woods I need a good skimmer do you have a suggestion. I have seen and heard of many but I haven't really seen any other tanks up and going other that at LfS and well in pics. I have a cyclone for my 75 gal hangs off the back. It seems to do a good job. But could there be a better one probably but since I have not seen others it is hard to judge.
whirley
New member
Just a FYI, glass shops typically can drill a hole for you. You'd have to drag the tank to thier shop, and they don't guarentee that it'll work (aka not responisble if it cracks), but I've never had any problems with them.
Yah, don't drill the bottom of the tank, it's probably tempered. I've always drilled the back or side of the tank.
Typicall, a hole cost $20-25. IMHO, since you're already there, I'd drill as many holes as possible. IMHO, I'd drill at least 3 holes. 2 back into the sump, one perhaps for future use (perhaps a closed loop?).
But, that's just me.
HTH
Yah, don't drill the bottom of the tank, it's probably tempered. I've always drilled the back or side of the tank.
Typicall, a hole cost $20-25. IMHO, since you're already there, I'd drill as many holes as possible. IMHO, I'd drill at least 3 holes. 2 back into the sump, one perhaps for future use (perhaps a closed loop?).
But, that's just me.
HTH
TY for the advice. I just don't know who I could take it to in my area and well I think I will try the overflo box that I ordered it will be here tomorrow but If it fails I will just have to find a place to drill a hole. I wish I could have just stopped and thought twice about buying a reef ready tank. I need AA for this hobby. LOL I am gonna need lots of help I think on this flo issue and the pump and the external skimmer. All the work ahead but sad thing is I love it.
