Oceanic 215 with Solaris Build

Oceanic, I believe, just wholesales through LFS. They don't do custom sizes, but Perfecto does. This tank has a glass center brace.
 
Oceanic will custom size a tank if you have the money. They are very expensive but they do an excellent job. Most people on a budget will take a chance on glass cages. I went to my local fish store and asked how much a standard 300 gallon tank would be from oceanic. She called the rep. and said it would be $6,000. That did not include the stand. The 215 gallon is a standard size and is a little on the high side but is no where near a custom tank. I can get a all glass 210, reef ready with stand and plumbing for $1,300 around here. Your tank is very nice. How do you clean the tank being it is 30 inches high. Do you use magnets?
 
Thanks all for the kind words. Well, hopefully we'll have the old tank out this weekend. Using fully cured rock, it seems that we won't have much of a cycle as all the numbers have stayed at 0, even with some mysis added. I added some bags of pods in the final week of the rocks curing and we can see them running around the tank, so I'm going to add some inverts tonight and monitor them for a couple days. The first move will have to be the carpet anemone so it settles before I start adding anything else as it pretty big and I don't want it traveling around when I have corals and fish in. I've had it for several years and it's stayed in the same spot, so hopefully we'll have the same luck with it in here. It's hard to get the true colors on these lights with the camera. I'll have to play some more with the white balance as none of the pics I've taken so far really represent the colors in person.
 
Thanks:) Well, we'll use magnets for everyday cleaning and a long scraper to keep the coralline algae off the glass on the sides and back.
 
[i can't get the glass case tank to ship up here,,,even the map show minneapolis minnesota is avaiable ,,
they said not too many people order from northcentral so the closses arrea is chicago ,,7hrs away,,so no way that i can get the tank that far,,,very wiere,,,also i heard they don't build good quality tank,,but i guess you get what you paid for,,so
can i ask the owner of this thread how much did you pay for the tank??
i am looking for the same size ,thanks
QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11256321#post11256321 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fish cowboy
Oceanic will custom size a tank if you have the money. They are very expensive but they do an excellent job. Most people on a budget will take a chance on glass cages. I went to my local fish store and asked how much a standard 300 gallon tank would be from oceanic. She called the rep. and said it would be $6,000. That did not include the stand. The 215 gallon is a standard size and is a little on the high side but is no where near a custom tank. I can get a all glass 210, reef ready with stand and plumbing for $1,300 around here. Your tank is very nice. How do you clean the tank being it is 30 inches high. Do you use magnets? [/QUOTE]
 
Marcye, looks fantastic. Tagging along and storing data for my upcoming 210 build. Could you provide a run down of systems equipment/manufacturers etc including the size of the sump? Where did you pick that 72" solaris I series up at?
 
WooHoo - you got it started and now you'll finish before me - :strange: .

You were talking about adding your anemone in first so it can settle, are you worried about your tank not being "old" enough? I know you feed them but don't they also get nutrients from the water column? I'm asking this because I need to get an anemone for my clowns. They are hosting everything I put in the tank - even my Duncans! I'm just now getting water in my tank but thought I would have to wait 6+ months before adding an anemone.

Build is looking great - I'll have to go over and see you and Tom in the next few months.
 
Thanks all:) Well, first off, the tank would probably run about $1400. I'd try and contact Oceanic through their website (www.oceanicsystems.com) for info on the nearest distributor. I really love the tank...there is a huge difference in the All Glass and the Oceanic with the Starphire. I know because I still have both side by side in my living room :(

Girl, I'm rushing this thing through for the holidays! In order to build up the tank I'm adding a full bag of Phycopure (Phytoplankton) and 3 bags of Reef Pods from Algagen. I added two bags to the curing pond about two weeks in to the rock cycle and can see pods running everywhere throughout the rock. (BTW, adding the phytoplankton and pods is a great way to bring tanks quickly back after using Interceptor as it helps build up all that are lost during the treatment. I'd wait a couple days after turning the skimmer back on).

I've had my anemone years and it's very healthy. It lived through 21 days without electricity during "THE hurricanes" running the tank off and on throughout the day on a generator). I usually suggest 6 months on a brand new tank (I've got old rock and sand in my refugium already) because you're adding an animal that's just been through a lot of stress with shipping and acclimation. I would still suggest waiting several months if you can. I just don't have an option with having to move the old tank out. BTW, do you have picks of the new tank? Last I saw you were lining up glass tanks in your yard and playing with power tools:) I look forward to seeing you soon!

Regarding the equipment: I'm rather old school on the filtration as it works for me. I like moving the water through a sump rather than closed loop.
Pump: Sequence Dart
4 returns: 2 with Pacific Coast Flow Accelerators (eductors)
Sump: Aquatic Life Systems 42x15x20 (55 gallon)
Protein Skimmer: AquaC EV 240 with a Pan World 50 PX pump
Refugium: 20 Gallon All Glass
Aquamedic Triple Doser:
Dosing Ocean's Blend or B-Ionic, both excellent products
Calcium
Alkalinity
Magnesium

Aquacontroller III with temp, PH and ORP probes.

Will be adding:
Red Sea Ozonator in another couple weeks
2 Vortech Pumps (new wireless design) Will be here tomorrow

Rock: 180 pounds of Tonga Fusion Branch

Sand:
300 lbs. Carib Sea Aragamax Sugar Sized Sand
40 lbs. Aragalive Bahama Oolite

Current parameters:
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-0
Phosphate-.02
Calcium: 480 (will drop this back to about 450)
Alkalinity: 11 dKh
Magnesium: 1300 (will get this up around 1450)
 
I didn't notice the fuge in any of your fist pics? Anyway, how is your fuge plumbed in and what lighting are running on it? Do you have pics of the tank w/ live rock/sand and the solaris on full bright? Let's see that I on full bright. Did you buy the solaris via your LFS?
 
Well, I own a LFS so yes, I guess you can say I did;)
Fuge:

100_1802.jpg


It's hard to get a decent pic of the lights with the other tank in the way, but here's a couple samples:

100_1819.jpg


100_1817.jpg


Clean up crew in place and doing their job

100_1826.jpg
 
I'm really pleased with these lights. They are much brighter than the 250 G series light I have. These are also much whiter than the others. I do have the whites at 100% as well as the blues. I'll probably drop the white down to about 60% when I first place the corals as I've read that they are so bright they sometimes bleach out corals if not slowly acclimated. It'll be interesting to see. I'll be moving lots of SPS and LPS in within the next couple weeks. Some are under low light right now and slightly browned out as I want to experiment with how long it takes to color them back up.
 
Just an interesting comparison. Left is the Solaris and right is my 90 with 2 Ushio 150 HQI MH with 4 actinic supplements.

Solaris-light-comparison.jpg
 
Marcye, man lookin great!!! That solaris looks killer. Can't wait to see all your corals under that dude! Few more questions on your system??? What are your plans for the fuge? Micro algae/lighting or just sand and LR? Noticed you feed from the sump return to the fuge via T valve control and then gravity feed from the fuge back to the sump? Why did you choose to plumb/flow this way? What's your flow rate into/out of the fuge? Also noticed you have a strainer at the top, in a way skimming the fuge at the return to the sump. Any thoughts on the possibility of the strainer becoming clogged and raising the fuge water level or overflowing? Noticed a T vavle directly off your dart pump return, am assuming this is for water changes? Was wondering what your plan is for water change outs (how many gallons, storage of the RODI and management of it)? What are the Pacific Coast Flow Accelerators (eductors) and do you have any photos of them in action or added info and what they actually do over say a normal lockline nozzle? Also what made you decide to go with the ,AquaC EV 240 with a Pan World 50 PX pump and place your skimmer in sump and run with an extrnal not submersible pump?
 
Thanks, BB. Okay, let's see. On the fuge, that's a side outlet 90 with two strainers...one lower in the water than the other. The higher one is still below the flood line for the tank, so if the one deep in the water dams up, the other will take over. I'll have chaeto and red grape caulerpa (the latter I grow to feed my algae eaters fresh macroalgae) with just plain ol' Home Depot sockets and pc reflector bulbs (see Melev's site as we got the info from there). The fuge dumps where it does to get as many pods as possible from the fuge into the tank without getting sucked up into the skimmer. We'll be running ozone through the skimmer and that would take too great a toll on the pods. Also, we'll have a collection cup on the skimmer. The EV 240 is in-sump to save space. It sits on a pvc rack we made that allows the water to flow under and around the skimmer body. We went with the 50 PX pump 1) to cut down on heat and 2) so pods don't get sucked into the skimmer like they would with a submersible pump. Currently, with everything running (including the lights) the temperature high is about 78 degrees. I work to keep my pod populations built up as I love SPS and I feel that life pod spawn is one of the best foods for SPS.

Yep, that valve is for auto tank changes. Luckily I'm married to a plumbing contractor with 37 years experience...including electronic plumbing. Eventually they'll be on remote sensors and we'll be able to schedule the water changes through our computer. For right now we'll be dumping the water into vats for evaporation as we live in an agricultural area and I don't want to dump saltwater into the ground for environmental reasons. I'm currently researching ways to dispose of the salt safely.

The RO/DI unit will be placed under the tank as well with an auto topoff unit. We'll have to mix our water currently as we don't have an area to hold the water vats. We'll do about 10 gallon water changes a week and then a 20% once a month. We have the waste water from the RO/DI feeding our pond for topoff so there's no waste.

The Pacific Coast Accelerators are basically eductors on the ends of Loc Line. They advertise increasing water flow up to 400%. It certainly does seem to increase the flow, although it disperses it in a wider area and with less pressure. So far, I like the flow a lot and there seems to be movement throughout. Once I add the Vortech's I doubt flow will be a problem.
 
Man those moon lights are awesome - absolutely beautiful! I can't believe how bright the LEDs are at 100% - they have really made some improvements.

Thank you so much for the explanation on the "new tank" coral additions. I knew you were doing something to rush it but I also knew you would never jeopardize the health of your corals just to get them in ASAP. I'll have to look into some of those products and see if I can take maybe two months off my wait period. My little clowns and just loving my corals to death - literally!
 
Back
Top