Thanks Travis
I haven't read those since last summer. Here is where Travis's treatment starts:http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...e=25&highlight=reef temperature&pagenumber=19
Chris
% of losses using levimisole?
- Thread starter The Saltman
- Start date
Thanks Travis
I haven't read those since last summer. Here is where Travis's treatment starts:http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...e=25&highlight=reef temperature&pagenumber=19
Chris
poknsnok
New member
I understand what your saying in relation to the pct of losses if the get into your system but to prophylactly use this harsh a medication without having to is unecessary. IMO Qting, observing and THEN treating, IMO, is much much better.. that said, I have only used the powdered form of the levisamole, is there a liquid form?
The Saltman
New member
Travis,
You mentioned in the thread you were successful in killing adult AEFW at a treatment of 60 ppm for 7-8 hours. I noticed this was wrote nearly two years ago and was wondering if anything has changed in your protocol that you use today? Also, would you recommend using levamisole at a 60ppm dip as a protocol in QT'ing all incoming sps? The reason I ask is because I'm going to stocking a 210 sps tank soon and want to take the best preventive measures to ensure these AEFW's do not get in my display.
The Saltman
New member
Do these percentages reflect the losses you endured when you had to treat your display tank for AEFW? Or do these percentages reflect what you lose by treating all incoming sps with levamisole?
The Saltman
New member
I understanding what your saying, but I have talked to reefers who have inspected and observed their new sps and never treated. They ended up finding AEFW's in their system later on. If I remember right, on reefer had mentioned that one positive thing about treating new sps with these harsh treatments, is that they really end up to be pretty hardy. I understand this isn't what a lot of people want to hear because nobody wants to put that new expensive frag through harsh treatments, but tell that to some of the hardcore sps people that have had entire tanks wiped out because of AEFW's.
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Travis
10 and over club
The problem is, with AEFW's you can have them for months and not even know. Even if you are visually inspection corals in a quarantine tank every day. It seems that once a coral becomes weakened by some other factor is when the damage from the AEFW's becomes observable and they boom to a population density high enough where you may be able to see them.
I have heard there is a liquid form but I have only used the powder.
Travis
10 and over club
I have not had to use levamisole since then because I have not added another coral to the tank. I made a promise to myself after that incident that I would never add another sps to this tank and I have kept that. It was just too stressful on me having to tear down the whole tank and treat everything in a Q tank for 4 weeks and the losses I suffered. In the distant future, when I upgrade tanks, I will use the same protocol I used before for any new additions.
What people need to realize is that simply dipping a coral one time before adding it to the tank is not going to be sufficient. It will kill the adults but the eggs are near impossible to find. They like to lay the eggs deep in nooks and crannies of the corals where you cannot find them or get to them. That is why I would recommend a full 4 week treatment where the coral is kept in Q for that period and treated 1 time a week for 4 weeks. Also, due to how harsh the treatment is, I would not recommend treating a new arrival right away. I would give the coral 1 week minumum (2 weeks would be better) to adjust to its new environment befores starting treatments.
I know it is all a mafor pain in the rear. I have a good buddy that used to own an LFS and he would do this treatment for all of his new sps corals before putting them on display. It is tedius and there is a possibility that you will lose some corals. But the end result is you are guaranteed to be free of the pests. You would not believe how healthy a pest free tank can be and the colors and growth rates you can achieve with very little maintenance to the tank.
poknsnok
New member
Ive yet to experience the wonderfulness of AEFW firsthand and this is how I do it... I will most likely experience them someday.
I hope I wasnt misunderstood as saying to not treat new corals. it was to not use the levisamole unless you had to. treat new corals with something else first. If you read other forms of dips/treatments. Other products anecdotally have proved effective in dips, treatment of new corals. TMPCC, Betadyne, Fluketabs, FWE.. I just think Levisamole is harsh and i wont use it unless I have an infestation.. IMO..
I hope I wasnt misunderstood as saying to not treat new corals. it was to not use the levisamole unless you had to. treat new corals with something else first. If you read other forms of dips/treatments. Other products anecdotally have proved effective in dips, treatment of new corals. TMPCC, Betadyne, Fluketabs, FWE.. I just think Levisamole is harsh and i wont use it unless I have an infestation.. IMO..
Travis
10 and over club
I did misunderstand what you were saying at first, but I do understand now. However, I will still stand by my opinion that everything needs to be treated. There may be less harsh methods of treatment out there but I have heard reoccurance stories from several of them. I would rather deal with a few losses here and there for the peace of mind.
For anyone planning to treat for AEFW's, I would recommend reading through the other treatment methods also and forming your own opinion on which one to go with.
Travis
10 and over club
I don't remember "exactly". But I calculated how much powder was in each bottle. Then filled the bottle to the top ML mark and mixed. Then divided the total ML of liquid by the amount of powder and that will give you a number to work with. Not sure, but I may have described how I calculate everything in past threads somewhere.
The Saltman
New member
Agreed, someone mentioned earlier in this thread that him and bunch of other reefers used to use TMPCC and they all switched to levamisole. I have figured a combination of dips from the 2 will be part of my QT procedure for all incoming sps even if I endure some losses.
imaqt4utoo
New member
I just saw this thread and thought it is great and I'm dealing with AEFW at the moment. I had a stable system for a long time, dipped and inspected, but that wasn't enough.
When you set up the QT tank is it safe to use the display tank water for your acros?
I plan on taking all acros out, mille's, digitatas, birdsnest, tri-colors. The only thing left in the tank will be encrusting montis and plating montis, hopefully they will be ok.
I want to dip all of these in separate buckets and then place them in a QT tank filled with display water because of the nutrients.
I will refill display with fresh made water (aged at least a few days).
Then following week, I plan on tearing down QT emptying it completely while corals are dipping again and refilling QT with display water (which I hope no longer have AEFW because they'd be starved to death).
I plan on doing this at least 6 weeks. Let me know if that method would work. I think it's too much of a shock to SPS to put them in a new environment. My tank has very stable params outside of the darn bugs.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
I've read almost all 100 pages on AEFWs on multiple threads, but nothing really talks about the QT setup outside of some people use 10-20% display and rest fresh saltwater.
When you set up the QT tank is it safe to use the display tank water for your acros?
I plan on taking all acros out, mille's, digitatas, birdsnest, tri-colors. The only thing left in the tank will be encrusting montis and plating montis, hopefully they will be ok.
I want to dip all of these in separate buckets and then place them in a QT tank filled with display water because of the nutrients.
I will refill display with fresh made water (aged at least a few days).
Then following week, I plan on tearing down QT emptying it completely while corals are dipping again and refilling QT with display water (which I hope no longer have AEFW because they'd be starved to death).
I plan on doing this at least 6 weeks. Let me know if that method would work. I think it's too much of a shock to SPS to put them in a new environment. My tank has very stable params outside of the darn bugs.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
I've read almost all 100 pages on AEFWs on multiple threads, but nothing really talks about the QT setup outside of some people use 10-20% display and rest fresh saltwater.
imaqt4utoo
New member
Thanks Fishdoc11....however would any other parasites be on those as well such as the red flatworms?
Thanks you for your honesty Travis. What you went through, and what others did as well, ie Sparkss, weatherson, bigred (just to name a few), is one of the reasons I do not trust any product that is marketed in our hobby. I want more protection than that. I am not one of those guys who want to go hunt grizzly bears with a blowdart.
There are so many people see the wonderful colors of SPS and jump head first into them without knowing about dipping. I know I did as well.
When I just upgraded to my 180, dipped every piece before I put them into my display just in case. I even went to far as to over dip my monties in PP. I ended up losing over 20% of them, my fault, but it is well woth the sound piece of mind.
I have recieved a few different PM's over the last week about "my dipping procedures". I do not have any. I know how much it looks like on a teaspoon and I do not have a scale. One of my firends said "I add it until the water has a tint of yellow".
If there is someone who has better measurements, will you please share. I know it has been said more than once, but AEFW are no joke. Blowing them off and letting fish eat them is a joke. There are to many local frag swaps and tradding going on in our hobby. It will be the end of all of us.
Having pests suck. I had nudies a couple years back and I still have nightmares. I still wake up in the middle of the night, jump out of bed at 3am to go inspect my tank with a mag light. This has dropped to about once a week, but when I was going through it, it took a long time for me to get a decent nights sleep.
Maybe one of the others will join in, but it was something like 1 gram for a 5 gallon bucket. It is roughly the size of a dime in about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket. If possible, incliude a sm powerhead. Shake the coral vigorously before rinsing in a seperate batch of SW and then proceed to place in desired tank.
If there is someone who has better measurements, will you please share. I know it has been said more than once, but AEFW are no joke. Blowing them off and letting fish eat them is a joke. There are to many local frag swaps and tradding going on in our hobby. It will be the end of all of us.
Having pests suck. I had nudies a couple years back and I still have nightmares. I still wake up in the middle of the night, jump out of bed at 3am to go inspect my tank with a mag light. This has dropped to about once a week, but when I was going through it, it took a long time for me to get a decent nights sleep.
Maybe one of the others will join in, but it was something like 1 gram for a 5 gallon bucket. It is roughly the size of a dime in about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket. If possible, incliude a sm powerhead. Shake the coral vigorously before rinsing in a seperate batch of SW and then proceed to place in desired tank.
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