Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

nivram said:
Im preparing for bringing my calcium reactor online soon and thinking about this method. I don't have room for the cole partner pumps I've seen used. Has anyone found a more compact pump to use? I've read mention of the Stenner pumps. But have not seen any user feedback from use.
Click to expand...

You could pretty easily DIY one using a gear motor with appropriate torque to run a masterflex pump head, pick up a DC gear motor 12/24volt and a speed contoller and then you just need to order a connector from masterflex to adapt the drive shaft to the pump head (or make one) and make a mounting bracket for the setup.

I've found these already assembled on ebay in the past (pitman-ametek motors) used for ink transfer and such.

Lots of industrial DC motors out there with decent pump heads. Watson Marlow for example also makes some more compact DC units which would be speed controllable.

FYI, you can also mount a standard CP unit a very long way away from your CA reactor. Doesn't have to sit near buy. Could be in the opposite end of your house and would still work just as well.
 
nivram said:
Im preparing for bringing my calcium reactor online soon and thinking about this method. I don't have room for the cole partner pumps I've seen used. Has anyone found a more compact pump to use? I've read mention of the Stenner pumps. But have not seen any user feedback from use.
Click to expand...

There is also a post somewhere in the thread( I think or possibly the aio bio pellets thread) where a guy is using a kamoer continuous duty pump that seems like it's pretty small.. But when looking into it the price is about the same and quality I'd guess wouldn't be as rock solid as the CP..
 
Is it normal for this type drive to make a fast ticking noise?
Or is that indicative of a problem?
I can't really tell where it's coming from.

i-7VBxsvM-L.jpg
 
If it does it without the head installed then it's either in the gears or brushes. Likely worn brushes. I don't think it is any sign of a problem if the noise isn't excessive.
 
It's likely the tab that connects the head to the drive ticking as it rotates and "pops" forward when the tubing tension lessens during rotation. using some tape to make the tab fit tight in the pump head slot should eliminate the noise.
 
zachts said:
It's likely the tab that connects the head to the drive ticking as it rotates and "pops" forward when the tubing tension lessens during rotation. using some tape to make the tab fit tight in the pump head slot should eliminate the noise.
Click to expand...

Teflon pipe thread tape works very well for this problem
 
Where it looks like I could fit a giant flat head screwdriver? :)
So if I spin it... then what?

And this tab we're talking about... is that what fits into that slot?

Sorry, I'm at work so I can't look at the drive till i get home.
 
First you need to determine if the problem is in the head or drive. Spin it without the head and see if the sound persists.

If it doesn't put teflon tape on the cog (the part that looks like the slotted screwdriver).

If it does then it's probably the brushes.
 
If anyone is waiting on a brushless masterflex please start stacking your pennies. There may be a handful of units available shortly.
 
Quick question for you guys... I am trying to lower my tank ALK (somewhere around 7.5-8 would be ideal.) Using a controller for PH, and a Carbon Doser from aquariumplants.

My current Alk is 9.5, and I am running 60Ml/Min with my Masterflex, and a PH of 6.85-6.90. What should I do to lower my tank alk... raise the flow, and keep PH the same, or up the PH and lower the flow?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
tkeracer619 said:
First you need to determine if the problem is in the head or drive. Spin it without the head and see if the sound persists.

If it doesn't put teflon tape on the cog (the part that looks like the slotted screwdriver).

If it does then it's probably the brushes.
Click to expand...

Ok, without the head attached, no sound.

I tried the teflon tape wrapped around that rectangle metal tab on the back of the head and maybe I'm not doing it right but it's not making any difference.
I did notice that the tab had black grease on it.
Also, changing the speed can temporarily stop the sound.
Especially high speeds. It seems to stop (at least for awhile) at speeds above 3 on the dial. I've been running it around 1.7
Does any of this mean anything? Any more ideas?
 
There are a 6+ units that have surfaced in odd lot sizes... I tried to negotiate a better price and buy them all but no dice. I have asked the seller to break the lots and put them as complete units so you guys can buy them.
 
d2mini said:
Ok, without the head attached, no sound.

I tried the teflon tape wrapped around that rectangle metal tab on the back of the head and maybe I'm not doing it right but it's not making any difference.
I did notice that the tab had black grease on it.
Also, changing the speed can temporarily stop the sound.
Especially high speeds. It seems to stop (at least for awhile) at speeds above 3 on the dial. I've been running it around 1.7
Does any of this mean anything? Any more ideas?
Click to expand...


It could be the bearings inside the head. Does the roller assembly have any slop to it? The rotating mechanism should not have any wiggle.
 
tkeracer619 said:
It could be the bearings inside the head. Does the roller assembly have any slop to it? The rotating mechanism should not have any wiggle.
Click to expand...

Yep!
I lifted the lever, opened the head, remove the tubing and the roller assembly can be wiggled.
So is that just a worn head?
Can it be remedied?
Is it bad to run this way or can I let it run and just deal with the noise?
 
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