Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

I just joined the MasterFlex camp for my new build. I bought a 7524-50 w/77200-62 pump head. I think I got one with the correct specs for my set up, all the different models is mind numbing.

For the tubing, the head says it accepts L/S 15, 24, 35 and 36. The LS 24 seem to be the closest match to the LS 17, which is linked to purchase. Can I substitute? If not is there one on US Plastics which is comparable? Thanks for all the great info.
 
d2mini said:
Ok, I'll try the grease and check the comm.



You should see the LiPo batteries now.
You can get a Traxxas car that does 100mph out of the box!
My Slash 4x4 does close to 40 on a 2s LiPo. I'm too scared to try anything more than a 3s. :lol:
Click to expand...

haha thats nothing. my 710mm bladed rc electric heli uses a 14s 5000mah lipo (2 7s 5000mah in series) pulling 200 amp peaks.

Anyway back on topic. My question to the experts is if i can split the effluent of one reactor for two systems using two masterflex dosing pumps?
 
If anyone is looking for a top off pump there is a pretty good price on some fixed speed (20rpm) masterflex units. He will accept a $60 offer. These units look to be in good shape. This is what I usually use for a top off pump. I just purchased 3 of them to pull two old but still functioning units out of operation and one for the 36gal invert/coral qt I am setting up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291379887914
 
Jimmy scratch it. I didn't hear from you soon enough so I went and bought the pair and splitting it with Dennis. Came out to be 330 or so for the set up. Will be anxiously waiting to set it up. Now which pump head is recommended ? Easy load 1, 2, or 3?
 
Awesome!

Any of the easyloads are fine but the ones I prefer have stainless rotors.

Always put the pump head model numbers into coleparmer.com and see what they really are.

You wan't one for "precision" tubing. It will tell you that, as well as if it's stainless or cold rolled steel in the title. Unless you have a specialty drive that requires the long shaft do not buy anything that states "long shaft" on Coleparmer's description.

Look to pay around $100 used and more if new. It is nearly impossible to tell the condition of the moving surfaces from ebay. Often I look at the color of the drive cog on the face of the head (not the shaft but the drive cog for stacking a second head). If it's dirty (brown tarnish), odds are the bearing seals have given out over time. If it's shiny odds say the head has limited use or at at least good maintenance. Could also mean the seller polished a turd.
 
Woohoo! Looking forward to getting this new drive.
Already have the 7518 Easy Load head. 7518-00 (what i have... I ended up with 3) are cold rolled steel, and the 7518-10 are stainless.


I'm running (a different) 20 RPM drive with a 7017-02 head (the little clear ones) for my ATO and it's working out great. If I didn't already have it I would have snagged one of those ones tkeracer posted above when I first saw them, before they were posted here.
Pretty good deal.
 
Yup, good drives for dosing, kalk, and general top off.

Reason I want to pull one of the drives is so I can rebuild it. See if we can come up with a solution to the dreaded brush squeak. If I can make this particular one quiet, anything is possible. :lol:
 
I noticed that I am getting allot of exceed bubbles in my calcium reactor on the bottom of the first chamber. I am also not able to get a decent bubble size unless I have the pressure set to 50 psi. I get water in the line right between the calcium reactor and check valve. Just those few inches and I always have to make sure the pressure is torn enough to push the bubbles though the water. Here's a picture of my setup let me know if you see anything wrong. I have it sucking through the reactors not pushing that water.
 

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Got my two drives and pumps.

Questions on the startup, as I want to make sure they work before I sell them.

Units power up and I can hit the "prime" button getting the pump to turn.

I can hit "cal" and it shows 30 ml.

In the "mode" panel, it shows a flashing V, can seam to switch this. Size is on 14 and hitting the size button brings up a number in the screen but doesn't change the size.

Any advice on how to get started? I searched for a utube video, however they all show the newer digital pumps. have the Masterflex l/s pictured early in the thread. Digital drive.

Thanks,

Jim
 
You can get hardware to mount the head from ace hardware. It's just some threaded rod.

The actual coleparmer hardware is hardened steel. They are stronger but I don't think it matters the slightest with a single head. It's a standard thread. Let me go try to figure out which one...

Let us know what they say regarding the remote mode.
 
jimmy n said:
I should add I don't have the easyload head bracket yet, nor the tubing. Thanks.
Click to expand...

There is a 4 pump mount set on eBay brand new for like $18..


Got mine put together and flow testing it with the l/s 17 tubing..

Here's the compact one with an easy load head. Those who are worried about the motors not being rebuild able they are really affordable and a dime a dozen on eBay new( I forgot the make of them but if anyone is interested I can open up my spare one) identical and in different torque and rpm so you can build a little continuous duty beast if the motor ever fails. Fwiw I got 2x brand new for $200 shipped without and heads. It's super quiet and runs with the 17 tube really well even though they only recommend the silicone version in this size..


And to accompany it my other dual stage overbuilt project.



Thanks tkracer I'm sure I'll have some questions once it's running on the tank. I'm going to wait till I get back from vacation so I have time to fine tune it.. I'll check back in in a few weeks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Quick question...

Over the last month or so my tank has been growing well and consuming more and more ALK... I have dropped my PH in my reactor .2 every week and am now down to 6.4 (ARM Extra Coarse Media). I am only running 20ML/min of fluid through the reactor with my Masterflex. Instead of dropping the PH any lower I would like to bump up the flow. Do I need to adjust the PH accordingly, or can I keep the PH at 6.4 and just bump up to say 30 ML/Min? I have alot of room here... Running the CarbonDoser regulator and I have a 5PSI bubble size and only 1 bubble every 10 seconds (the slowest on the regulator). I have been dropping my PH and now it is time to tinker with the other settings on the regulator/masterflex.

The reason im asking is that a slower flow has more contact time thus melting more media... but maybe this is incorrect (hence why I am here to get my questions answered).

Thanks
Dave
 
Ya, you can only go so low on the pH so go ahead and increase your flow.
This will cause the pH to rise so you might have to up your C02 as well.
 
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