tkeracer619
New member
So I had an idea.
So I had an idea.
I believe we may be able to use our reactor pumps as automatic water changers in addition to our reactors at the same time.
This involves 3 heads. P1 will operate the calcium reactor as described, P2 will draw water from the new salt water reservoir and deliver it to the display, P3 will pull water out of the display and dump it in a drain. Whichever between P2 and P3 has a longer tubing run (or higher head pressure) will get an adjustable occlusion pump head. The shorter run gets a standard head. This will allow you to balance the flow between the two heads.
Both supply and drain lines will need to run to a high point well above water level in the system. At the high point of each line a tee creates a vent. This vent goes through a normally open solenoid valve creating a siphon break preventing either P2 or P3 to prime unless told to do so via a controller. Both pump heads P2 and P3 will always be functioning but will not pump water unless the solenoids are closed.
In theory, this is all that is needed to add an auto water change to our already sweet systems for not a lot of additional investment. Thoughts?
*Using 1/4" tubing for the aquarium side of the solenoid vent and 3/8" tubing on the pump side of the vent on both P2 and P3 will further reduce possibility of starting a siphon inadvertently.
*Using the largest tubing available will shorten cycle times. I think its best to run the system in intervals compared to always changing.
*A salinity probe is mandatory for any auto water change system.
So I had an idea.
I believe we may be able to use our reactor pumps as automatic water changers in addition to our reactors at the same time.
This involves 3 heads. P1 will operate the calcium reactor as described, P2 will draw water from the new salt water reservoir and deliver it to the display, P3 will pull water out of the display and dump it in a drain. Whichever between P2 and P3 has a longer tubing run (or higher head pressure) will get an adjustable occlusion pump head. The shorter run gets a standard head. This will allow you to balance the flow between the two heads.
Both supply and drain lines will need to run to a high point well above water level in the system. At the high point of each line a tee creates a vent. This vent goes through a normally open solenoid valve creating a siphon break preventing either P2 or P3 to prime unless told to do so via a controller. Both pump heads P2 and P3 will always be functioning but will not pump water unless the solenoids are closed.
In theory, this is all that is needed to add an auto water change to our already sweet systems for not a lot of additional investment. Thoughts?

*Using 1/4" tubing for the aquarium side of the solenoid vent and 3/8" tubing on the pump side of the vent on both P2 and P3 will further reduce possibility of starting a siphon inadvertently.
*Using the largest tubing available will shorten cycle times. I think its best to run the system in intervals compared to always changing.
*A salinity probe is mandatory for any auto water change system.
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