Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[janey]

Slief the bearing were intact. I unscrewed it and bearing came off.. They look look like they should have some grease in them ? But as for the shaving .. That"s the QUESTION.. where did it come from , or off of ?
I was researching too for a replacement pump. Yeah I seen that one on ebay , but its different. and the wiring too.

oh you saying for in the inner parts > I see..

 

[slief]

Slief the bearing were intact. I unscrewed it and bearing came off.. They look look like they should have some grease in them ? But as for the shaving .. That"s the QUESTION.. where did it come from , or off of ?
I was researching too for a replacement pump. Yeah I seen that one on ebay , but its different. and the wiring too.

oh you saying for in the inner parts > I see..

Yea, I was thinking inner parts. Bearings in particular. That one bearing that came apart, probably should not have come apart like that. First think I would do is call Cole Pamer. Depending on what repair they offer, then I would consider my next course of action be it buying a new pump, a motor to cannibalize or finding an electric motor repair place to try to fix it.

 

[tkeracer619]

Slief the bearing were intact. I unscrewed it and bearing came off.. They look look like they should have some grease in them ? But as for the shaving .. That"s the QUESTION.. where did it come from , or off of ?

Nice! Well not nice but you found your problem. Keep going!

That bearing is shot and that sliver of metal is from the bearing retainer itself. There is more like it wedged in the motor.

Continue breaking it down, clean it up, have new bearings put in (probably will need to be pressed in/out). No point in stopping now and thank you for the pictures. This is helpful, i've never been into them this deep.

I'd say look for new parts if the thing didn't function properly at all but since its just getting jammed from a bad bearing I see that as a sign of promise. I look forward to seeing you fix this pump! You've pretty much already done the hard part. Save all the bearing parts and take it into a motor shop or bearing house. Bet they will put them in for you for about $25 total. Doesn't look like the roller bearing in the gear housing is in bad shape so I would likely just focus on the two in the motor. If they have the parts to replace the roller bearing more power to them but I would probably be inclined to leave it, it looks well greased.

 

[janey]

Hi, Mark. Ohh your welcome with the photo's . I was like i hope no one gets mad at me posting so many photos and vids.. But Heck this is how we can learn as we Go.. Right ..!

Ok I'm waiting on the Mirco hex set i ordered. so i can take this part off. see 1st pic. I'm hoping maybe i can pull off the shaft ?/


On 2nd pic see the washer got all bent too.

 

[tkeracer619]

Yup, pics are worth a thousand words.

I assume once you remove that collar the guts will slip out. Try not to remove the black plastic part, that is the timing sensor. If you do need to remove it carefully mark it so you can place it back in the exact position upon reassembly.

That isn't a washer I don't think, IMO it looks like a bearing shield. The other sliver of metal is what keeps the bearing balls properly spaced, and the washer looking part is what keeps the bearing balls and grease from falling out.

 

[janey]

Called Cole-Parmer
Unfortunate the pump is discontinued and they have no refurbished. And if they did it goes for 1,100.00... Yeah Right .. Any way Looking for a motor shop or bearing house, near me. like "tkeracer619 " says..

Anyone Know of a place that repairs these pumps ???

 

[tkeracer619]

Anyone Know of a place that repairs these pumps ???

Any motor or bearing shop. The parts that are broken are not proprietary. There is no need to deal with CP on this unless it is under warranty/still in production. There is no need to find a shop that repairs cole parmer motors (doubt one exists that actually specializes in this), you may not even need a shop at all if the bearings come out on their own. That was merely a suggestion if the bearings were pressed in or needed to be pressed out.

Folks keep in mind these pumps are 2 grand new and when they reach the end of their useful life the companies who use them fork over a bunch of cash. Just because they are old doesn't mean the parts are cheaper, it is the opposite. You would pay more for one little part than you did for the whole thing. It's similar to kids going out and buying a 300zx twin turbo or supra turbo for 8 grand thinking they got a deal. Until they go and try to upgrade anything and realize the upgrade costs are based on the age, how few of them exist, and the original $$$. You buy non consumable parts for these surplus, not direct. Luckily you don't need any of that Janey, you just need some bearings .

I took my old brushed drive offline the other day and replaced it with a newer drive. So after you are done with this repair I will follow up with mine . My drive is noisy, floppy, all sorts of worn out. Good candidate for a rebuild.

 

[slief]

Called Cole-Parmer
Unfortunate the pump is discontinued and they have no refurbished. And if they did it goes for 1,100.00... Yeah Right .. Any way Looking for a motor shop or bearing house, near me. like "tkeracer619 " says..

Anyone Know of a place that repairs these pumps ???

Here is one potential repair source that is somewhat close to you.
http://www.bduinc.com

 

[slief]

Called Cole-Parmer
Unfortunate the pump is discontinued and they have no refurbished. And if they did it goes for 1,100.00... Yeah Right .. Any way Looking for a motor shop or bearing house, near me. like "tkeracer619 " says..

Anyone Know of a place that repairs these pumps ???

Here are a couple places that say they repair Cole Parmer pumps.
http://www.acsindustrial.com/mfrs/c...oT3EMA.1&utm_referrer=https://www.google.com/


This place is where I bought my new brushes for my CP. They also say they repair the pumps.
http://www.plccenter.com/

That said, I still think a motor repair place like the one I linked to in my post above may be the most practical solution. Also, search for "Bearings" in your local area and you might find a bearing supplier in your area. There are several listen in Allentown.

 

[tkeracer619]

Awesome Slief! I am surprised (though I probably shouldn't be) that there are shops out there specializing in these. They probably love them compared to some of the junk they see on a daily basis :lol:.

 

[janey]

OOOOO Thanks Slief
I emailed 4 company's ..and sent them pics to show what im talkin about..


Thank you Guys so much...

 

[BrettH]

I bought a Stenner dosing Pump Model 85M/170DM for ….wait for it …Fourteen Bucks!
This pump has a range of 1.5-514.8 Liters per Day.

congrats on a $14 stenner pump purchase, there are all sorts of things you can use that for....that's the good news...

I was going to buy that stenner pump (New) since it's about the same price as buying a used CP setup off ebay. I called stenner and asked a few questions and they directed me to an entirely different pump. They said that model/series of pumps are not meant for 24/7 continuous use. I can't remember all the specifics, since I spoke to him back in late Jan/ early Feb.

Here is what stenner recommended (~$900 and you can find for about $700):
http://stenner.com/products/pumps/svp-series

Is anyone else using the stenner pump continuously? If so, for how long?

I ended up finally buying a CP 7520-50 off ebay yesterday and a 7518-10 head! I went with this model because CP has all the wearable parts that are likely to fail- brushes and few gears, so it is easy to fix if there is a problem. Hopefully the one I bought is in good condition. I had also been holding out for a brushless, but my patience has worn out...I must say, the people at CP are incredibly helpful and answered a lot of my questions. Great company. Stenner too. Just solid, helpful people.

BTW, I also remember reading somewhere in this thread the 6-600 rpm motor is preferable because in theory it is a stronger motor (due to higher RPM capability) and we are only running these units at about 17rpm, so why not get the higher RPM, stronger motor. IIRC from my discussions with CP, the 6-600 rpm has a gearing system that can wear and the comparable 1-100 RPM units have the same motors as the as the 6-600, so no need to hold out for the higher RPM motor. The gearing system is easily replaced. Maybe I'll give CP a call to confirm to make sure I am not mistaken. If I am, I apologize. Either way, both are very solid units!

Thanks to Dennis as I originally found out about this idea from his build thread! And thanks to everyone else, particularly tkeracer619, for the effort with this thread. Good stuff. Just an awsome thread :thumbsup:

 

[janey]

ARRRGGGG
Only 2 company emailed me back.
1. wants more info as too who makes the pump.and what the the size of the bearing.
I gave the info Masterflex pump model # is E-67909 S/n 16044 .
as for size , I have a Digital Caliper.. Gotta Love Harbor Freight.. LOL
Ok this what i gave them.
bearing thickness is 7.02mm , outside is 0.867 mm , inner is 11.40mm
washer width .42mm, outer 21.46mm , inner 17.26mm

 

[METZCOOL]

Will this setup work?

Will this setup work?

Cole Parmer 77200-12 with 7021-24 Quick load pump head?
I have a GEO reactor and a Aquarium Plants Regulator.

 

[slief]

Cole Parmer 77200-12 with 7021-24 Quick load pump head?
I have a GEO reactor and a Aquarium Plants Regulator.

It will work. You will be running the pump at a very slow RPM. You can control the RPM via the dial on the front of the pump. The RPM coupled with the tubing size will determine the ml/min. You will want to stick with the LS17 tubing as it will keep the RPM lower on the pump compared to the thinner LS16 tubing.

Depending on your tank size and Ca/Alk uptake, you will probably want to start out around 25 ml/min (8.4 RPM) -50ml/min (17.7 RPM) flow through the CaRx and 1 Co2 bubbles per 1 -2.5 seconds depending on the flow. That bubble rate should get you to 6.6 and 6.7 pH in your reactor. but you obviously need to measure that. The bubble count will depend greatly on the media you as different media breaks down at different pH levels. The calcium and alk levels in your tank will determine how much flow you need through the reactor as well as the pH level needed in the CaRx. Once you get the pH level in the reactor stable, then you will need to adjust the flow rate and Co2 bubble rate up or down based on your tanks consumption.

 

[naterealbig]

Hey guys, great thread! I'm planning on building a dual stage regulator setup with a quality metering valve. Would there be a significant benefit to the AP doser over a quality metering valve?

 

[janey]

Need help again.
Alot of places i emailed dont sell parts. Only place so far , that im getting close is
here http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Search/Advanced?PartNumber=6082rs
Just sent them pics , too see if they can fig it out. Thanks Sleif

Can someone help me fig which one i need ??
As you you can see on the pic i had posted the bearing i took out , Is it missing the inner metal part ??/ Cause looking at the site i linked they all have the metal inner part.

 

[Dapg8gt]

Who was the poster that said they had a bunch of ls/16 tubing?I'm using the compact pump and would like to try it out to see if I can have a wider range of flow to dial in my c02..

Long shot but if you read this and you still have an abundance of it can you shoot me a Pm I'd like to either buy some or we can trade/swap for some 17..

Thanks Daniel..

 

[slief]

Need help again.
Alot of places i emailed dont sell parts. Only place so far , that im getting close is
here http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Search/Advanced?PartNumber=6082rs
Just sent them pics , too see if they can fig it out. Thanks Sleif

Can someone help me fig which one i need ??
As you you can see on the pic i had posted the bearing i took out , Is it missing the inner metal part ??/ Cause looking at the site i linked they all have the metal inner part.

That's where bringing it to a bearing supplier would be your best bet. They could take a caliper to what's left of the bearing to determine the OD/outer race as well as the thickness of the bearing and measure the motor shaft thickness to determine the inner race. It could end up costing you $15-$20 in parts if that vs a $100+ from a CP repair house. That said, I would check on that needle bearing too. You might as well replace that too if the bearing place can match it. I think I gave you some bearing places in Allentown to check. Send them some pictures of the bearings and ask them if they think they can match them if you bring the motor in.

 

[zachts]

Who was the poster that said they had a bunch of ls/16 tubing?I'm using the compact pump and would like to try it out to see if I can have a wider range of flow to dial in my c02..

Long shot but if you read this and you still have an abundance of it can you shoot me a Pm I'd like to either buy some or we can trade/swap for some 17..

Thanks Daniel..

PM sent