oh man, calcium at ridiculous levels...might be on to something

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10429857#post10429857 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latazyo
thanks guys, water's mixing right now, should have those test results tomorrow

I am going to try to bring my salinity back up to my "normal" levels (1.026), so this mix will probably be around 1.028
Then you should expect something in the order of 450 ppm
 
I think your testing is a little out of whack. Last time I saw a picture of your tank you were very "heavily" stocked with SPS. You had a bunch of frags. If you were doing routine water changes, even monthly, you'd keep your calcium in the lower end of the safe range.
 
perhaps my heavily stocked with sps tank and small volume of water depleted the supply too quickly???

I have been on a schedule of changing water at MOST 1x/month (but now I am on to at least 2x/month after seeing how quickly things can go downhill
 
I should be able to make it without a issue . I would like you to bring three large ( 15 ml ) samples in different containers .

1 marked tank water

2 marked fresh salt mix

3 marked RO water

We should be able to find any PO4 issues if your having them .

You may want to call MS to make sure they are ok with us checking your samples at the store . If you could bring a new eye dropper too it would be helpful .

John
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10431776#post10431776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latazyo
perhaps my heavily stocked with sps tank and small volume of water depleted the supply too quickly???

I have been on a schedule of changing water at MOST 1x/month (but now I am on to at least 2x/month after seeing how quickly things can go downhill


After you get your levels back to a normal state . You can test your tank water for calcium after a week .This will let you know how much calcium your tank is using a week .


John
 
UPDATE:

I have potentially solved several problems with one long stay at Planet Reef this morning

1. the salifert test kit is a bum....this morning I tested my freshly made saltwater and got a calcium level of less than 100

so I took a tank water sample and a new water sample to Planet Reef and we tested it to be 400 there, so the kit is bad....bummer, but at least its not the salt

2. after a closer look, only my monti's are turning white, I brought my superman in and the LFS employee immediately and confidently identified the problem as monti eating nudibranches, so Im taking the proper steps to correct that

3. I will now be buying a TDS meter and/or new DI/filters to get the cyano problem taken care of

4. my new salt water tested at 5 meq/L (14 dkh) for alkalinity, so that should be fine

5. Im going to buy a magnesium test kit as well
 
If you find a salifert magnesium kit let me know.


Glad you got most everything nailed down and taken care of. What're you going to do about the nudi's?
 
I probably wont be looking for a salifert kit.......but eBay has them if you need one

nudis - praziquantel
 
no, I got it straight off the shelf from the LFS

it is sold under the name PraziPro

http://rockymountaindiscus.com/prazipro.htm

it is intended for use against flatworms, flukes and other platyhelminthic organisms ON FISH, however I am going to try it against the monti eating nudis (gastropods)

this is a total experiment...Im not going to treat the tank, IM going to remove my montis and put them in an ice cream bucket and treat within the bucket

since this is an experiment, I know nothing about dosing (however the risk is better than letting the thing get eaten to death)

anyways, if this was YOU, would you goo by the recommended dosage for fish on the bottle?

everyone, give me your opinion as to how you would dose (dont say "I wouldnt do it" and dont be afraid that if I take your suggestion and everything dies instantly that I'll be mad)

this is an experiment and the results could be good or bad...not doing anything = dead montis anyways
 
Thansk for the info.
I think that for an experiment somekind of procedure will be needed to determine the effective dose.
If you could I would try to use lower, at, and higher than recommended for fish on different corals if you have more than one infected.
 
well I completed the water change

I was able to raise the alkalinity from 9.8dkh to 12.6 dkh

my pH went up from about 7.9 to 8.05ish

I am still setting up the phosban reactor, but I am confused about how much media to use
if you dont mind, check my thread here and offer some assistance so I can set this thing up today

here is the thread http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1173066

jdieck, I have a monti danae, monti cap both obviously infected, and a monti digi that is bleached (not sure if its infected or just sweating it) and I have a huge red monti cap that looks perfect and is growing like crazy

I'll probably try the higher dosage on the monti cap (small one) and a lower dosage on the danae

anyways, right now my alpha project is the phosban, so if anyone can offer help on that, please check out the link a few lines up
 
further updates:

I checked my RODI water with a TDS meter and only got 12ppm

so now IM gonna check each individual filter and see if the carbon is in need of replacement
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10439096#post10439096 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latazyo
further updates:

I checked my RODI water with a TDS meter and only got 12ppm

so now IM gonna check each individual filter and see if the carbon is in need of replacement
Do you have a DI cartridge? If so that is the one most probably needing replacement.

To know if the membrane is OK you need to test the rejection, to do so, test the TDS going into the membrane (Your tap TDS) and the TDS going out of the membrane into the DI cartridge if you have one.
The % rejection will be:

%R = (TDSin-TDSout)*100 / TDSin

Rejections should be more than 90% for membranes of 100 gpd capacity and should be more than 98% for membranes of 75 gpd or lower capacity.
If the rejection is too low your DI cartridge will be consummed rather quickly so if it is low you may want to consider replacing the membrane.

Because the carbon filter does not remove dissolved solids other than some organics, to know if you need to replace the carbon filter (Installed before the membrane) the only way to know is testing for chlorine at the cartridge output (you can use a pool chlorine test kit). If any chlorine is detected the cartridge needs replacement.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10437469#post10437469 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
latazyo:

Were do you get the praziquantel? Do you know if it needs a vets prescription?

Jose,

The effectiveness of praziquantel on monti-eating nudi's was discovered by Mitch Carl (Omaha Zoo, Columbus Zoo and Aquarium and also www.secore.org). He told Eric Borneman about it and only they know the dosages that they've found effective. However, they have not done a large amount of testing themselves and as a result, won't put any dosages on the internet until they do.

My attitude is start small and add more rather than risk killing a monti.

PS....thanks for all of your hard work on the chemistry calculator
 
I have completed stage 1 of the praziquantel experiment

as Curt mentioned, with no dosage to go on... I went at this blindly

I filled a bucket w/ approximately 1/3 gallon of water and calculated the appropriate dosage as described for fish, it was .08 mL for 1/3 gallon (package is 29 mL/ 120 gallons)

I used .25mL, triple the dosage

1. I added .25mL to 1/3 gallon water (why 1/3 gallon? because that's how much water was needed to fully submerse my montis)

2. stirred the water up to ensure that the praziquantel was thoroughly distributed in the water

3. added my montis and allowed them to soak anywhere between 30 and 50 minutes

4. rinsed w/ clean saltwater

5. returned to tank

it has been 3 hours since the treatment and the corals appear the same as before (colorwise) and their polyps are extended

so now, only time will tell

I would definitely say that I OVER exposed these corals by tripling the dosage and soaking them for almost an hour

so.................I'll be updating this thread frequently with updates

I will try to get pictures of the corals as that is the only reliable way of determining if deterioration has stopped or not
 
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