OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks guys. I wonder how it got introduced into the tank? I let the rock sit in there for quite some time before I added any fish and it's been such a long time in Ich years since I have added anything. One hep is really having a hard time.

Anyone have temperature advice. I have heard that raising the temp. to 82+F will kill off the Ich. Anyone else hear of that working? Or maybe changing salinity like hypo- or hyper?
 
I used hypo-salinity a few months ago on a hawaiian tang successfully. Happy to report the fish is now my (uh oh, I can hear the tang police now) :eek2: the 3rd in my 125 and is fat and happy, it was in a quarantine tank though.

I would not recommend it for your display. The inverts probably won't survive.
 
You'd have to pull out all the fish, putting them in hyposalinity (1.009 with a refractometer (accuracy counts)) and keep it that low for 21 days. The main tank would have to be fallow (fishless) for six weeks, then readd all fish.

Never introduce any water from the LFS into your tank, period.

All new fish should be quarantined 14 to 21 days to make sure they are parasite free before adding them to your main system. The quarantine tank can not share the same water, or your releasing whatever into the full reef as well.

You asked. ;)
 
Like Mark, I quarantine all new arrivals, but for a minimum of 30-45 days.

As far as getting the fish out of the display... just cut the barbs off the hooks! :bigeyes:
 
Hey gkarshens,

Are those rics in your avatar? Sweet!

I had to do it. This makes 100 for me. I can now select my own!!! :dance:
 
Mark I totally understand the QT thing and have one but it was not large enough to take in all the fish when I got them. When I designed my system I never even thought that i would bring in 20 fish at one time. I think what probably happened is that it came in on one from the wild and because of the size of the tank, is just now being noticable.

I don't put any LFS water in my tank, and I also note that my LFS medicates all fish from what I understand. Time is a big part of that equation, but the only thing I have brought in from the LFS is 3 mythrax crabs and the mated pair of maroons. The maroons were in his tanks for at least 6 weeks before I got them (probably longer) and I watched them carefully. They were always in great health and still are right now.

I don't think it is practical for me to try and remove all the fish and QT them.

gkarshens I can get the tank down to 75F but I can't keep it there. And it does seem interesting that now, when the reef temps. are rising based on seasonal changes, that the Ich is appearing.

mrcrab Interesting article, but not good news. It does say that Ich is temp. sensative. The part about the air bubbles is why I did not get concerned the last time I saw it. And again today I see alot of particles but I don't think they are bubbles. Upon close inspection of the water line I see lots of particles that appear to be air bubbles except that they have mass to them. Maybe I should I.V. garlic through a doser??? ;)
 
I personally dose with Gaaaahlic and it seems to work for me! Keeps the Vampires away.

Temp sensitive meaning that it is not as prolific at lower temps I believe.

Usually a healthy, STABLE system would not have the problem with a small amount of ICH. The way I understand it is that it is present most of the time only stress (instability) seems to make it become a problem.

The clowns with their mucus coating seem to be much more resistant than other species.
 
Also, with regards to the mass you describe, I don't believe that's ICH.

From what I understand, and I don't know the technical terms, but the spores fall off at night while the fish are sleeping and settle in that area. When the suckers split they do it in the same area where the fish sleeps and re-attach. That is why the later infections tend to be worse that the initial ones.

The worst of the infection from what I understand is in the gills, making it harder to tell how bad the infestation really is.

Not good news I know.

Good Luck
 
I want to press a button and have everything fixed. Is that so wrong?? :lol:

The fish get a lot to eat but I have forgotten to soak it in garlic for the last couple of weeks. I need to move the bottle to a better place!
 
Okay, take this with a grain of salt (no pun intended -- too much bourbon tonight ;) )

The few times my fish have had ick (assuming this is your case) I have
done nothing but keep the water quality up. To me, your tank is too big to be able to catch the fish without stressing them more, which IMO will make the ick worse. Providing them with high quality water and food is your best option. For smaller tanks, or a situation were it would be easy to catch them, QT would be the best choice. But that doesn't seem to be the best choice for you.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7488731#post7488731 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mrcrab
Hey gkarshens,

Are those rics in your avatar? Sweet!
Click to expand...

They sure are! I got them from a reefer that was getting out of the hobby for $20. They are probably my favorite coral I have right now.

Back to the thread...
 
Jonathan,

I don't know how to help with ICH as I've never dealt with it, but I can add a little to the discussion. ICH can come from anything you put in your tank (fish, rock, algae, LFS water, sand, invertebrates, etc etc).

I've heard of situations where people add snails from the LFS and then ICH develops.

Brian
 
Well the last thing I added was your snails! :lol: just kidding!

I don't know if it is embarrassment or shame or what but I am really bummed out about this.

A couple points of interest are that my system was on the low side temp. wise as well as salinity for quite some time and that may have held the Ich at bay.

The fish are eating well but I am afraid the one most affected hep is going to be overcome. He is just still so small, but on the other hand, they heal really fast at that age.

I am considering over-riding the seasonal program and keeping the temp. low at around 75.5F - 76F. Any comments on that?
 
You could try an acrylic fish trap to see if you can catch the most infected and QT/medicate him. My LFS rents one or you can buy one at MarineDepot or make one. You just put your food in the trap and wait for the fish you want to swim in and drop the door. It can take some time but I would imagine getting the most infected fish out will make it easier for the healthier fish to avoid serious infection.

But I have never had to deal with an ICH outbreak (yet) so what do I know..


-Greg
 
i have had Tangs with ich. usually becuse they were stressed for whatever reason. I started soeking their food in garlic extreme & it went away. then I picked up 2 cleaner shrimp and haven't seen it since. every couple of weeks i soak food in garlic just for the halibut(hell of it)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
Replies
15
Views
446
Dustin07
D
S
Back up power supply
2
Replies
22
Views
376
Reefing102
Reefing102
Brian60077
Big project starting today......
Replies
7
Views
182
Dustin07
D
E
Need some help with two clowns swimming unusually as I’m doing a fish cycle.
2
Replies
22
Views
490
Reefing102
Reefing102
Reef Kinetics
Maintaining Optimal Nutrient Levels in Your Reef Aquarium
Replies
0
Views
359
Reef Kinetics
Reef Kinetics
Back
Top