Thanks Marc. The coral in that last picture although quite a nice piece has been a big disappointment for me. I paid big bucks for a 1" frag a little over a year ago for what was supposed to be "Bonsai" but in my opinion it's just a typical tri-colour A.Valida. (sorry had to vent) Anyway, top down photography is the way to go if you can. Do you have a box to shoot through? I highly recommend it, makes a world of difference for me. Good luck on yout photo shoot. I'll look forward to seeing the pictures.melev - Who can afford a tank like Ryan is suggesting? Mine is already costly enough, at a mere 280g. Gorgeous pictures. Tomorrow I'm taking top down shots too. Time to see what my reef looks like from above.
Thanks very much Ian. I do buy the odd wild colony but mostly aquacultured and the majority of my corals were started as frags.Ian - It would be great to see your tank get a TOTM nod here before you take it down...Do you buy as wild colonies? Aquacultured? You sure get some nice acros...
Thanks for your kind words. The overflow will be external to maximize interior space so the closed loop should not stick out further than that so the real estate is a non issue for me. There should be no unsightly penductors in view the way it is being done. All costs of the tank should be more than covered by frag sales so again not an issue. I have heard many opinions regarding a closed loop and because I want as little visible equipment as possible I have opted to go this route. I don't want any more Tunzes than the 2 I will be using....too bulky and the cords will still be visible and I'm hoping between them & the 3 vortechs the flow will be sufficient. There should in theory only be one vortech visible on the far left panel. I really appreciate your input but be it good or bad I am already committed to the design.SERVO - I second, third, forth and infinity that!
Greg, I haven't read through your whole thread due to time constraints, but I personally would like to discourage you from having a closed loop. I have one on my tank that is ran with a dart and internal penductors. I would discourage it for a couple of reasons
-real estate issues
-energy consumption/cost
-unsightly penductors
-bulk head failure risk
I think that you could get the flow that you would like if you just added more vortecs or Tunze deco rocks if thats what you wanted. Additionally, as you know, you can move the vortecs around.
****UPDATE****
The glass is ready to go and I am promised it will be assembled on Monday night. Apparently the starphire sheet got chipped and they are waiting for the replacement. I am so tired of waiting that if the new piece doesn't get here by Monday I will just go with regular glass. I leave for a week in Mexico on Tuesday so I plan for the tank to sit empty during that time for the silycone to cure.
I'll keep my fingers crossed.
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