Optical level question

Hi Guys,
New to the Profilux game. I'm installing an Elite package on a clients system and am learning the ropes before putting it all on his system.

Silly question, but my opticals look like they are SS.

I will be using one to control topoff, and one to shut down the pump if the sump gets low. In other words, like you Doc, they will be submerged.

Is the epoxied cable entry rated for submersion??

I also have the level sensor holder, which uses cord grip fittings. The opticals are very shortand the sensor does not protrude past the bottom of the fitting. So I'm wondering if the air trapped in the fitting between the sensor and the water is an issue? Guess I should just get the damned thing wet, huh :D

Thanks,
Chris
 
Yes it can get wet.

But the optical should protrude, please see set up below

PL-LevelFastener_150x478.jpg
 
Thanks Michael,
I should have looked it up before sticking my foot in my mouth. I thought the probe went though the fitting, not the mount. Should be fine, as long as the topside and the cable can get wet!!
 

I've headed over to Reef Central to find this exact answer, so thank you for posting such a comprehensive answer.

Just one question however to do with the timer 7, although in the software you can set it to 23:59:59 (sorry, 11:59:59 PM) when you save it the seconds are zeroed.

This means that in the 60 second window between 11:59:00 and 11:59:59 if the water level fell to activate the level sensor would it topup with salt mix rather than RO?

Could you invert the timer so that it's only active during the water change window, so in this case the timer would be on 8:00PM to 8:15PM? Then in the two programmable logic entries you would have the G1 inverted and G2 standard.

The reason I ask is that in the "Level" page you have controlled the "ATO in General" with Timer 7, however since you also have the Water 1 output switched between the two pumps via programmable logic is it necessary to have this or could you leave the ATO always on?

I'm sorry if the answer is obvious - only have my Profilux running a few days and I'm trying to work out which level sensors I need to do ATO+AWC, though I think it'll be optical for Level 1 and float for Level 2. Moved from an Aquatronica so things are very different and do take a bit of working out.

Thanks for your time.

Alan.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13205038#post13205038 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AlanM
I've headed over to Reef Central to find this exact answer, so thank you for posting such a comprehensive answer.

My pleasure... :)

Just one question however to do with the timer 7, although in the software you can set it to 23:59:59 (sorry, 11:59:59 PM) when you save it the seconds are zeroed.

This means that in the 60 second window between 11:59:00 and 11:59:59 if the water level fell to activate the level sensor would it topup with salt mix rather than RO?
Yes , you are right, but you can fix this by having you sensor set to 61s instead of 5s, that would fix that 60 windows, but I wouldn't worry to much about that!

Could you invert the timer so that it's only active during the water change window, so in this case the timer would be on 8:00PM to 8:15PM? Then in the two programmable logic entries you would have the G1 inverted and G2 standard.

That logic should work will try it later 2nite ad let you know, with programmable logic, there is tons of way to achive the same stuff sometime, that is what I love with profilux.

The reason I ask is that in the "Level" page you have controlled the "ATO in General" with Timer 7, however since you also have the Water 1 output switched between the two pumps via programmable logic is it necessary to have this or could you leave the ATO always on?
It depends if you leave it always active and you are using a RO/DI selonoid valve the impact of that will very little, but on the other hand if you using a pump and a reservoir, it will be alot faster and may mess up your salinity, because your RO/DI socket will always be active and that means even when the water change occurs.

I'm sorry if the answer is obvious - only have my Profilux running a few days and I'm trying to work out which level sensors I need to do ATO+AWC, though I think it'll be optical for Level 1 and float for Level 2. Moved from an Aquatronica so things are very different and do take a bit of working out.

Thanks for your time.

Alan.
Hopefully you have no regret to have left Aqua behind, the scalability of profilux is so great and is practically future proof......
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13205038#post13205038 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AlanM
Could you invert the timer so that it's only active during the water change window, so in this case the timer would be on 8:00PM to 8:15PM? Then in the two programmable logic entries you would have the G1 inverted and G2 standard.
It cannot be done that because there is no invert in the Level settings...... That timer is used to activate the ATO for the entire day is also in the programmable logic which has the invert feature.
 
Thanks for checking that out.

I just need to play with this and get it running, got the level sensors on order so should be able to do it any day now.
 
I hope you don't mind me asking a question in this thread, busy doing some research.

Is it not possible when the censor it covered again to switch off the pump and not have the pump running on a timer.

So uncovered = pump on
covered = pump off
and still have the max run to protect against floods.

My reason is I prefer small top ups more often than 1 or 2 big ones per day, as I mix kalk with my RO water.
 
The timer we have been discussing is for the automatic water change facility, not for the topup facility. You can have it configured so that it will topup when the sensor demands and not be restricted by time. So behave exactly like a normal topup system controlled only by the sensor.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12869533#post12869533 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kidney514
Your sensor has to be uncovered for atleast 10 sec for it to trigger your top-off. The delay can be change if desired. Also make sure that your max-on time is ajusted properly to avoid water damage.....

Was sire this was about top off. But any way Thx.
 
ah ok, going back a few posts, sorry I had got caught up in the more recent discussion.

The 10 seconds there is purely to stop one off short events triggering the topup, the pump starting up, then stopping straight away. Having it demanding for 10 seconds (or whatever you set) is a way of making sure that there really is demand.

Without it you could see wave action or similar triggerring the topup every second or so, if you watch something like the Tunze Osmolator you'll see that has a delay as well.

All this does is delay topup by a very short amount of time, it will still have the same action as if the 10 second check wasn't there in that it will do lots of small topups all the way through the day.
 
I am having sensor problems again. I noticed 5-6 days ago that my sump level has been low. I then noticed that the litermeter had not been refilling the sump. So I wiped the sensor to make sure it was not covered by salt creep. No change. I checked my profilux program and there has been no change. So I thought maybe it was a problem with the socket on my digital powerbar. I pulled the optical sensor out of the sump. I plugged the litermeter into a socket that was on and running my T5 lights. The litermeter immediately came on and started pumping water. I placed the sensor back in the sump and manually filled sump to its usual water height. The sensor then triggered the litermeter off. I plugged the light power cord into the socket the litermeter orignally came from and moved the sensor out of the sump. No lights. So I deducted the socket is bad. Am I right? If so, how do I correct this problem. The powerbar is less than 1 year old.

Thanks
 
how to determine if a socket is bad (although not very likely) is very simple:
if the LED is on the socket must have power, if the LED is off the socket must be off. If not -> socket may be defective.
If you have a powerbar with fuses inside (see label and manual) then check fuse.
But this is a little off the topic. If you have warranty cases contact us directly.
 
Back
Top