Orange Shoulder Tang in QT - Not eating much

Orcrone

New member
I setup my QT including using sponge filters from the sump of my DT. Before purchasing the tang I checked the ammonia and nitrites and they were both zero. I brought the fish home and gave him some Nori on a clip, but he didn't take it. Gave him some frozen food the second day and he seemed to pick at it; taking it in his mouth, spitting it out, taking it in again, etc. But since then (almost a week) he's barely eaten.

Part of the problem may be that I made the mistake of not adding any food to decay in the QT to keep the bio filter going after setting it up. After adding the fish the ammonia and nitrite levels starting rising. Luckily I have a large water changing station with pumps to transfer water, making it relatively easy to do large water changes. I've been doing 80% once or twice a day, keeping the ammonia and nitrites below 0.25. I'm wondering if these levels are keeping him from wanting to eat.

The food consists of a number of frozen items (mussels, plankton, krill, mysis, etc.) defrosted and soaked in VitaChem, vitamin C, garlic and Selcon.

Any other suggestions? I've had him for a week and I hate to cut the quarantine process this short. But I haven't seen any sign of anything wrong except the lack of appetite and I'm wondering if I put him in the DT with zero ammonia and nitrites if he might be more likely to start eating.
 
Using API kit this AM they were both between 0 & 0.25. Did an 80% water change before work. When I came home the ammonia was slightly below 0.25 & nitrite was between 0 & 0.25.
 
One more thought. He's in a 20 gallon QT. When I do a water change the ammonia & nitrite don't go to zero because there's still some left from pre water change. I also have a 10 gallon QT setup. If it's at 0 ammonia & nitrite I could adjust its salinity & acclimate him to that tank, transfering almost no water. That should get the ammonia & nitrites to zero so I could see if he'll eat.
 
Video

Video

I took a video of the fish. What appears to be spots on his bottom are actually bubbles from a water change. I'm wondering if his mouth looks normal.
 
Woke up this AM and the fish is breathing very rapidly. Sign of ich, but no spots. Kind of hesitant to treat a fish who hasn't eaten in a week with copper when I'm not sure of ich.
 
no spots, but sign of ich? what sign?
that fish needs a pretty large qt 20 gallons is hardly large enough.
i would try covering the front of the tank so it cant see everyone walking by.
keep changing water at regular intervals. ammonia is never good on a new fish especially a tang in a tight space. try some prime in the water.
when i got my orange shoulder tang it took mysis and nls pellets it still doesnt eat nori sheets either red or green.
 
Rapid respiration is a sign of ich in the gills. He was also doing fine at the LFS in a 20 withh other fishes. I've also been doing 80% water changes once or twice a day. I will try and get some live food today.

Thanks!!!
 
Rapid respiration is a sign of ich in the gills. He was also doing fine at the LFS in a 20 withh other fishes. I've also been doing 80% water changes once or twice a day. I will try and get some live food today.

Thanks!!!

wow! actually the ammonia, stress can and will all cause that!
what did the lfs feed? try that.
 
I've had great luck with new life spectrum pellets. Even my picky eaters love it and my powder blue lives 100% off of them.
 
IMO & IME; a fish acting like this and refusing a variety of foods, isn't going to start eating just because you feed something new. IMO, a 20 will work as a QT just fine. I'm almost sure there is something else wrong with this fish. Gill flukes are a possibility. Does he have places to hide? the last thing he needs is more stress. If you keep doing WCs , keep offering good tang foods, and keep the ammonia under.25---he may come around. Can you post a pic?
EDIT: I was typing this while you posted above. Sorry.
 
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