Osmolator help

[scott11]

I have used my osmolator for 4+ years, gone thru 2 pumps, but today its not working.

The yellow light comes on, but I see no activity from the pump. I checked the wiring, I tried my old pump (which was not dead only slow) nothing.

I checked with a multi meter, but I have a junky one and not sure how to use it (what settings for this device). It did register some DCV so I think there is some power going to the pump.

Any ideas?

On a side note, the plug from the power supply to the control box has been loose for a while- i often need to spin the plug or play with it a little before it powers up. Not sure if this could be related.

Please help, leaving town and really need to have a top off solution in place.
Thanks

 

[scott11]

played around with it and I am showing 12v coming out of the controller. Its possible that both pumps are dead since the other one has been sitting dry for a while.

Is there anything else it could be? I will just order a new pump, but I dont really want to buy one if that wont solve the issue.

 

[rvitko]

Do you have the power supply that has a switch from 9-12V? An old osmolator can only run a new pump at 9V and only if the contacts (terminal connection) are clean and free of corrosion or salt creep. About 3 years ago we upgraded the pump to a double oring seal, this increased the power consumption from 800mA to 1100mA. As a result new osmolators have a limit on the board of 1200mA to the pump, old ones are 800mA. At 11-12V you excede the 800mA and even at 9V if the contacts are corroded. This causes the pump to slow to a stop as a thermal breaker seperates contact to power the pump. This can be upgraded but it needs to come in for this upgrade. A new pump and 9V with clean contacts is likely your best quick fix.

 

[scott11]

I ordered a new pump already. When you say clean contacts, are you talking about the wiring connections, or the contacts inside the unit. When the new pump comes tomorrow I will clip the wires and make sure there is no corrosion anywhere.

What would the upgrade cost if I can't get it working?

Thanks

 

[rvitko]

I would cut back the black leads that come from the controller to the pump until you get bright shiny copper. Ideally you would resolder the ends so they are protected. If the screw terminal is corroded I would replace it, they are available at Radio Shack as European Connectors.

 

[scott11]

cut back all my wires, got a new pump- everything working now. Thanks

 

[rvitko]

Thanks for the update.

 

[scott11]

ok, new problem- i have some sort of siphon happening

I have used this setup for over 2 years, and never had any siphon issue. I have a 55gal drum in the garage (directly on the other side of wall that tank is against). The osmolator pump is in the drum. The water line and power go through a hole in the wall near the ground. The outlet of the water line is in my sump under the tank. I have a "T" in the line with an air gap which is located under the stand, but still below the water line of the drum when full.

Now, when the osmolator turns off, I still have a slow drip going into my sump. I have never had this before.

Is there something different about the newer pumps that would let water through when the pump is off? Why would this happen now, when the only change was the pump.

 

[rvitko]

The only change to the pump was about 3 years ago and was an additional oring seal for the motor, this could not be a cause. I am fairly certain that for the airgap to work, it must be above the water line, further, since the airgap could potentially clog, your safest bet is to route the top off hose up to the tank, assuming the reservoir is shorter than the top of the tank.

 

[scott11]

i added an airgap in 2 places, neither worked. I added one shortly after the pump, as the line was leaving the drum, the airgap line ran to the ceiling, but the pump still pushed the water out that line.

Next I tried a gap inside the house, running the airgap line up the wall well above the top level of the drum. This did nothing.

Once the osmolator turns off, I have a slow steady drip entering the sump. I really can have the line empty into the dsplay since there is no canopy and I have a screen covering the tank. The only way would be to make a hole in the screen, and I dont want to do that for several reasons.

 

[rvitko]

I don't really have an answer, the recommended installation is always that the hose end above the water level of the reservoir, I have to assume the airgap is not sufficient and it is not breaking the siphon, but the pump could not be a cause unless it was still running and this would actually be a controller issue at that point.