Osmolator Problem

[Phyxius]

Roger,
I have 3 of the Osmolator systems and they have been great. Started having an issue with one of them yesterday and was wondering if you could figure out the problem.

The unit was not pumping water as it should and the system was running low. The first time I noticed this the red light on the unit was on. I unplugged it for a few minutes to reset it and it clicked on and ran a few seconds and then went off. The units orange pump light was still on so I figured it was a pump issue. I first made sure it didn't get air locked and it was fine. I then replaced the pump with a brand new one and plugged it back in and the unit did the same thing:
Pump started up and ran strong for the first few seconds and then slowly wound down till it stopped a few seconds later. Total run time from start to stop was about 5-7 seconds. Units orange pump light was still on but there was no power to pump. Shut the unit off and plug it back in a few minutes later and it repeats this. Eventually it times out and kicks the red light on and shuts the unit down.

Any clues about this?? I tried 3 pumps and they all did the same so I figure it may be the power supply or the control unit. I tried the power supply on 9v and 12v and it was no change....I would try one of the other PS but they are all stuffed in behind the tanks and not easy to get to at the moment

Great units otherwise though....

 

[rvitko]

Inside the osmolator is a sort of slow thermal circuit breaker. If the pump draws more than 800mA on older Osmolators and 1200mA on newer Osmolators it will overheat and break the circuit. This is a safety because the power supply can only deliver 1600mA and a high load can starve the circuit board so its logic functions don't work. We upped the limit because the pumps were redesigned with a double seal and draw more power now. The pumps use less power when they pump against higher head pressures so these problems are most common with short hose runs, like a run to a nearby sump or refugium. A run to the tank is likely to keep the pump load below 800mA. You could try a longer run or send it in to have the PTC swapped for a 1200mA version.

 

[Phyxius]

Roger,
The run goes from the Tunze unit and container up at least 4ft to the tank itself. I used almost all of the black line that came with the unit for the water to go back into the system ("tank).Its a older unit that s been running for about 15 mths with no issues and just started it it all of a sudden this weekend.

If I had to explain better as to whats its doing is.................
The pump sounds like it has full power and then the juice to it dies. Almost like a battery losing its charge after a quick burst and then running out.....
Wouldn't the thermal breaker kill the control unit in the process by shutting off the pump run circuit?? It just keeps the orange light on like its topping off but its not. As soon as it times out the red light kicks on.

Let me know if you still think it should be sent in and where to and what $$ for repair

THANKS for the help!! You really dont know how much you begin to rely on these till the break down on you.

 

[rvitko]

It won't cost anything, what you describe is this circuit breaker, it heats up from the higher load of the pump, it seperates the contact to the pump and the controller functions normally, it slowly seperates so the pump slows to a stop. The only other culprit you could check would be the wire contacts, if the screw junction is corroded that would also increase the Amp draw and cause this problem.

 

[Phyxius]

I cleaned the wires and actually replaced the junction screw connector with a new one and still doing it. I had bought one of the strips from Radio Shack awhile back so I just broke 2 off and had a new one Where do I need to send my unit in to? I can get it out to you as sonn as I get this info.


Thanks for the help with the diagnosis Roger

 

[rvitko]

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin TX 78753

 

[Phyxius]

Roger,
I may have found another possible cause so let me know if I may have found a possible reasoning

I was getting ready to disconnect it all in prep to send it in and got thinking about the pump draw and what may cause a load like you said. I pulled the Check valve off that was in line with the Tunze Calcium container and decided to see how bad it was plugged up from use. Pulled some water from the sump to trigger the eye and the pump ran pretty strong and kept running till it filled the sump back up to the sensor. It never wound down or kicked off. Is possible that this valve was causing enough back pressure on the pump to cause the load issue you mentioned?
Tried it again with this valve bypassed and it ran fine again. Can I buy these check valves from Tunze or is there a source for some good ones somewhere? With 3 systems running I may need to have some spares on hand.

 

[rvitko]

That could be it. The check valve we use is the same one offered by Hagen. Any airline check valve will work and you may be able to just soak your check valve in vinegar.

 

[Phyxius]

I`ll buy a few replacements and see if it cures the problem. If not I will post here first before I send the unit in.


Thanks for the help and great service once again!!!

 

[Phyxius]

Roger,
The valve must have been it. I replaced it with another and it has been working fine since. I checked it again with that valve on and the water barely came out through it with pump activated. Tried it with the new valve and shot water out of the container so it was a major improvement of flow. I guess it was clogged enough to cause a load on the pump and make it shut the fuse down when it started running.


Thanks again for the help.