Thanks folks.
Jaded_Falcon - that's outside of the scope of this website but if you were resourceful you could probably figure it out.
Cool Jacob - I love mine.
xtm - My workflow changes a bit depending on the image but basically I start with a RAW image in Lightroom. I adjust WB, exposure and black levels. I also use non-default values for sharpening. At this point in the workflow it's "capture" sharpening. All you're trying to do is reverse the loss of sharpness that occurs in camera due to how the sensor works.
Still in Lightroom I generally apply a little bit of "post-crop" vignetting. It slightly darkens the edges of the frame which helps hold your eye in the center. Ansel Adams used that process on nearly all of his images.
Next I load the image into PS. At the very least I apply additional sharpening. I also may do some dodging/burning to bring out shadow and highlight detail. I do both using adjustment layers, blend modes and masks rather than with the PS dodge and burn tools. For sharpening I use "Smart Sharpen" pretty aggressively but I apply it with edge masking so only the contrast edges get sharpened. I also convert the image to a smart object first so that the sharpening is adjustable. I call this sharpening step "creative" sharpening. I do "output" sharpening either while printing or while reducing the image for web use.
At this point I save the image and it becomes my "master" image. All prints or resizes for web use come from that master. This is an example of what my layers panel looks like after a standard image:
If I'm going to an images for the web I start by flattening the layers. Next I use image/resize to change the dpi to 72. I let PS resample the image using bicubic (no smooth/no sharpen). Next I use Filter/sharpen (not USM or smart sharpen). After applying the filter I resize again to my final size. I have a recorded "action" that applies the frame and then I add the copyright via a text layer/drop shadow style set to about 50% opacity.
Cheers
Doug