Ou Oh -Tank Broke!

fatdaddy

New member
After 4 years, my 110 gallon tank broke at 2am in the morning. The center plastic support was broken and I was in the process of upgrading to a 150g tank. Apparently, I wasn't fast enough or the tank broke for another reason.

After putting new sheet rock on the downstairs ceiling, I'm a little paranoid about floods. Just trying to figure out the best way to avoid that in the future.

Comments welcome.
 
No. 1 comment....

Do:
Buy a brand new tank from a reputable manufacturer such as Aqueon or Marineland, and water test it prior to use.....if it holds water when it's new and level when installed, it'll hold water for a lifetime.

Don't:
Buy a used tank from someone on craigslist

While at times you can find a good used tank that was well taken care of, it's much more likely that you'll find someone who didn't.....
 
yea i agree withchris27. ime ALWAYS BUY A BRAND NEW TANK! Aqueon is one of my favorites since they are well built and simple. i bought my first tank when i was in HS and on a budget since my only income at the time was doing yard work for my dad. so since i was really cheap back then i bought a used tank and within 2 years the center brace broke and it started to leak. ever since then i never went cheap. im a firm believer of "you get what you pay for". i know theres tank out there that are used and were taken care of but you never know. the probability that the previous owner of the tank didnt take care of it is a lot higher then getting a tank from the guy that did take care of it.
 
In the future if a center brace breaks, I would clamp some boards to the front and back of the top edge of the aquarium while you set up a new tank.
 
There is nothing wrong with buying a tank off of CL... a thorough inspection is needed though. Ive bought plenty of used tanks and never had a problem with any of them.
 
Hm, now how did you know that I bought off CL? :headwally:

I didn't....but.....used tanks are often discarded in the back yard or stored in the garage under loads of other stuff. Their integrity can hardly be measured, and knowing what the previous owner did with them is left to the honesty of the seller...

A tank is really the cheap part of a build, as such, I prefer to buy a new tank with a manufacturers warranty. After all, it's the most important piece of gear, and has the most work to do 100% of the time a system is running.
 
There is nothing wrong with buying a tank off of CL... a thorough inspection is needed though. Ive bought plenty of used tanks and never had a problem with any of them.

Any plenty of bad tanks have also been purchased by hobbyists...

I don't want water leaking out of my tank, so when providing guidance to a fellow reefer, I make a valiant attempt to provide the best advice. The responsible answer is to suggest purchasing a new tank from a reputable company.

FWIW, there are other ways to save a buck that are far less disastrous in the event an item fails....ie. protein skimmer, powerheads, lighting, etc...
 
I was thinking in terms of overflows, sensors, and relays. I have a sump, refugium in the lower level (downstairs), so it would be good to shut off the power to the lift-pump in the future should the tank malfunction. I've heard of level sensors in case the overflow clogs.

Also, I'm pretty sure the lime-water topoff killed my fish. It would be good to kill power to that too if something goes wrong in the future. I was able to save most of them, but then they died from something (Ph?) over the next 48 hours. Only two survivors. Oddly, the coral and anemones made it.

I'm just thinking of beefing up the redundancy and then adding a level sensor and relays / computer.
 
Any plenty of bad tanks have also been purchased by hobbyists...

I don't want water leaking out of my tank, so when providing guidance to a fellow reefer, I make a valiant attempt to provide the best advice. The responsible answer is to suggest purchasing a new tank from a reputable company.

FWIW, there are other ways to save a buck that are far less disastrous in the event an item fails....ie. protein skimmer, powerheads, lighting, etc...

This is just your opinion and it doesnt make it the best advice. Many aquarists on RC have purchased used tanks and it is a responsible answer. No need for you to push your paranoid, "know it all" attitude on the subject.
 
I was thinking in terms of overflows, sensors, and relays. I have a sump, refugium in the lower level (downstairs), so it would be good to shut off the power to the lift-pump in the future should the tank malfunction. I've heard of level sensors in case the overflow clogs.

Also, I'm pretty sure the lime-water topoff killed my fish. It would be good to kill power to that too if something goes wrong in the future. I was able to save most of them, but then they died from something (Ph?) over the next 48 hours. Only two survivors. Oddly, the coral and anemones made it.

I'm just thinking of beefing up the redundancy and then adding a level sensor and relays / computer.

Redundancy is never a bad thing. Whenever you have a vital sensor such as a liquid level or thermometer, a backup will eventually come in handy.

For worry warts like yourself (myself included) a basic controller can help you sleep better at night. It doesn't have to control everything, or even monitor everything, rather just a few things. Putting simple failsafes in place like turning lights off if the temp goes above X, or shutting down the ATO system at a max level or max pH, will make you worry less. For that your easiest solution is an off the shelf ready controller like a Reefkeeper (Digital Aquatics) or Apex (Neptune) combined with a few accessories like float switches and probes. If you want more control, the sky is the limit, it all depends on how much you want to spend, and what you can design and fabricate.

One other product to look at is a simple water detector, it's a small device that has a water sensor, you put the sensor on the floor in the stand, and it'll emit a loud beep like a smoke detector if water makes it's way to the stand. If you're home, it's good, if not, you'll come home to a loud noise and a wet floor.

One of the most important things to note is to keep your system simple, avoid using unions, check valves and external equipment if at all possible. When plumbing, use solvent pieces rather then threaded, PVC is silly cheap, so having to cut it to move the tank won't hurt your wallet. For reactors, skimmers, and everything else, if it can fit in the sump, put it in there, the O-Rings are reliable, but at some point they will fail, and you likely won't be expecting it.
 
This is just your opinion and it doesnt make it the best advice. Many aquarists on RC have purchased used tanks and it is a responsible answer. No need for you to push your paranoid, "know it all" attitude on the subject.

Again, merely stating that yourself and "many" others have bought used tanks and used them successfully is hardly responsible "advice" it's rather a statement of your experience.

A responsible answer would include a list of things to look for when contemplating a used tank purchase, inspection criteria as we call it.

Examples are:

1. What is the condition of the silicone, is it in-tact and pliable?
2. What is the condition of the tank bracing, is it the original color? Has it been modified in any way? Does it look as if it's been affected by heat from a high powered light? Has it been repaired?
3. How about the glass, is it clean and free of stains, scratches or chips? Is the silicone in the seams compromised in any way? Has it been drilled...if so...how close to the edge of the glass is the hole?

The "know it all attitude" that you speak of is hardly the truth, as I'm continually learning more and more about the hobby every day. After keeping critters in glass boxes for the last 25 years of my life, I encountered my fair share of leaking tanks, it's not something I would wish on anyone.

Just this month at the LFS we had someone encounter a leak in a used tank that required them to break the entire tank down....guess what....it was water tested and inspected, and held water for two months before failing. Moral of the story, if that person would have bought a new tank from Marineland or Aqueon, they likely wouldn't have had that happen, and in the off chance they did, the tank would be replaced free of charge.
 
Broken tank

Broken tank

Interesting thread. My tank did the exact same thing. After 3.5 years, the center brace on my 110 snapped in the middle of the night, forcing me to upgrade to a 150. I called the manufacturer and was told that the plastic used in the center brace wasn't really designed for high intensity light. A combination of UV and heat weakens the structure. I found if you just line the top of the brace with duct tape or anything else that will protect it it you probably wont have any problems. Would have liked to know that before, but maybe it can help someone else. Just as a side point, i purchased my tank new.
 
Again, merely stating that yourself and "many" others have bought used tanks and used them successfully is hardly responsible "advice" it's rather a statement of your experience.

A responsible answer would include a list of things to look for when contemplating a used tank purchase, inspection criteria as we call it.

Examples are:

1. What is the condition of the silicone, is it in-tact and pliable?
2. What is the condition of the tank bracing, is it the original color? Has it been modified in any way? Does it look as if it's been affected by heat from a high powered light? Has it been repaired?
3. How about the glass, is it clean and free of stains, scratches or chips? Is the silicone in the seams compromised in any way? Has it been drilled...if so...how close to the edge of the glass is the hole?

The "know it all attitude" that you speak of is hardly the truth, as I'm continually learning more and more about the hobby every day. After keeping critters in glass boxes for the last 25 years of my life, I encountered my fair share of leaking tanks, it's not something I would wish on anyone.

Just this month at the LFS we had someone encounter a leak in a used tank that required them to break the entire tank down....guess what....it was water tested and inspected, and held water for two months before failing. Moral of the story, if that person would have bought a new tank from Marineland or Aqueon, they likely wouldn't have had that happen, and in the off chance they did, the tank would be replaced free of charge.

I dont understand... you think your experience is better advice than someone elses experience. Ive been keeping "critters" for 30+ yrs and Im offering my advice based on that experience. There are plenty of used tanks that may only be a yr or so old and in excellent shape... people decide that the hobby is not for them. If a person doesnt know how to inspect a used tank then there are plenty of folks on here to help with that. They can even take an experienced aquarists with them to look at the tank. Again, there is no need for the "responsible answer" garbage.
 
A tank is really the cheap part of a build, as such, I prefer to buy a new tank with a manufacturers warranty. After all, it's the most important piece of gear, and has the most work to do 100% of the time a system is running.

just because a new tank has a warranty doesnt mean the manufacturer will honour it...if you dont buy the matching stand have it installed by a professional on a sturdy level area and use suggested lights etc...they have a million ways out of replacing a tank...and a couple hundred dollar broken tank is nothing compared to the thousands of dollars damage a broken tank will do to a house, which you can also pretty much guarantee the tank manufacturer wont cover. also after four years of running the tank i am pretty sure the manufacturer isnt going to cover the tank anymore, most warranties are one or two year...not sure i have seen a lifetime warranty on a tank.

One of the most important things to note is to keep your system simple, avoid using unions, check valves and external equipment if at all possible. When plumbing, use solvent pieces rather then threaded, PVC is silly cheap, so having to cut it to move the tank won't hurt your wallet. For reactors, skimmers, and everything else, if it can fit in the sump, put it in there, the O-Rings are reliable, but at some point they will fail, and you likely won't be expecting it.

avoiding unions i dont find to be sound advise either....as cheap as PVC is hacking it up monthly to clean and inspect my pumps makes no sense, i will use unions where necessary...while cleaning an inspecting my equipment i easily check o rings in the unions...

as for threaded to slip fittings, if you arent comfortable enough to use either. you shouldnt be doing your own plumbing, there is nothing wrong with either type of fitting and there is obviously a reason they make them...you can not thread on a fitting just as easily as not glue a fitting properly...i have seen hundreds of leaking glued joints, compared to very few if any leaking threaded joints. use pipe dope and you will never have problems, very hard to over tighten or use too little or too much...

other then that i do agree with everything else you have said...

as for the OP's broken tank...likely had nothing to do with the condition of the tank when purchased...was most likely due to the metal halide lights you used over it...for the next tank use pendants that more appropriately fit the top of the tank without casting on the brace(s)...make sure the tank and stand are flat and level, make sure there isnt excessive movement in the floor under the tank...
 
I have had tanks for decades- more used than new. When I bought my pet shop I bought over 150 used tanks- and never had a faliure in ten years of service. I have bought and sold hundreds if not thousands of new and used tanks, and a quick inspection tells all. Centerbrace is integrial to the structure- UV destroys it. Easliy replaced- most manufactures sell replacement trim for reasonable price. My new 65 gallon tank had ceter brace degredation after 3 years of halides. Sorry if this advice is not "valliant" But it is the truth based on much more statistical experience than someone who tried harder.
 
Tanks can last for a very long time. There is no reason to buy new if your on a budget. Know what to look for and you will be fine.

Missing brace is the worst. Had a tank fail because it was missing the brace and I didn't know any better.

Got my 360 with a 3 or so hundred lbs of live rock for $500. Sure the tank needed a lot of work but saying it was an irresponsible purchase is ridiculous. I have a few hundred into a tank that will last 10+ years and the guy who purchased it new paid $3400.
 
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