Our 375 Gallon project

I was thinking that the house probably wasn't built to handle humidity, Most houses these days are built for maximum profits, and not built to stand up to 50 or 100 years, and Humidity can Cause serious problems with mold which can lead to sick building syndrome, better safe than sorry.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7223858#post7223858 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Opcn
I was thinking that the house probably wasn't built to handle humidity, Most houses these days are built for maximum profits, and not built to stand up to 50 or 100 years, and Humidity can Cause serious problems with mold which can lead to sick building syndrome, better safe than sorry.

You're kidding me, right? Have you ever BEEN to Phoenix...?

Houses here don't have to be built to withstand humidity, even with 500+ gallon aquarium systems in them...

Even with the big aquarium, during the most humid time of year (August/September) the interior of Sidewinder's house is going to spike at 25% relative humidity, tops.... and that's for maybe 60 days out of the whole year....

Definitely not humid enough for mold development, and I don't think his aquarium will be up for 50-100 years either way, so that's kind of a moot point, dontcha think?

Don''t go tearin your house down just yet, Scott.....
 
I don't think I suggested that the aquarium would be up that long, I was thinking about it running for 5-7 months without ducting, And since Houses are built to keep inside air in and outside air out it seems to me that it could be a problem. an example of this that comes to mind is my fathers house in central Alabama, He lives on a hil surrounded by swamps and the humidity outside in around 90-95%, however the humidity inside is closer to 50% and its only that high because he doesn't have wheather stripping on the doors, and infact cut them all 1/4th of an inch too short. Depending on how a house is built 8 or 9 sq. ft. of surface area on water heated to 80 F can be a huge problem.

However Tearing down your house wouldn't be nearly as cost effective as putting in those two 10" diameter holes.
 
Have you been to AZ? If not go check it out....you can see the Grand Canyon, painted desert, the petrified forest....there is lots to see....when you get back let us know if you still think humidity is going to be an issue. :D
 
Again I stress that it is the structure that matters

Right now the relative humidity in Phoenix is 12%, Here in Durango CO its 17%, it stays close to 30% most of the time, However, when I got back from a 3 week break my dormroom had been shut up for that entire time, with my 12 gallon nanocube inside, the humidity measured ~63% and there are two vents in my room and a big gap under the door. It does not matter what the air outside is like one bit if it is not mixing often enought with the air inside. The dry heat does not matter except that his house probably wasn't built with a scrap of mold resistant material inside of it, well, I did see some green board, but I doubt the whole house is built with green board, not if it was built comercially.

Edit: Typo
 
Well, If I ever get my stand finished I will be adding ducting for the canopy ventilation- more for the heat than the humidity. Also keep in mind that I have the majority of water in the garage which has almost constant air turnover. And like others have mentioned- it is very dry here (inside the house as well as outside) and I really wouldn't be very concerned about the humidity if everything were in the house. Don't forget- this is "swamp-cooler" country- we add humidity to our houses on purpose :). The most humid time of year for us is when the summer monsons come in and in that case- it's still hot and our A/C system does a great job of pulling out any moisture in the air. I think the only time we get mold here is with contant standing water- not because of humidity. You do bring up a valid point and if I was living any where else I would have given that much more thought when I started this project but here it's just not a concern.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7344773#post7344773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BumpinTJ24
did you use mig or tig welding for your stand? Looking to build a similar one. Thanks

Ram

Sidewinder's stand is standard mild steel DOM tubing. Flux core mig welding works just fine for this type of project, especically if you are going to grind the welds smooth afterwards, anyway.

Just be sure to move around the piece as you weld it up to prevent heat induced warpage. Don't weld up one entire corner at a time; make a bead, then go do a bead in a different corner, then come back to the first corner to do another bead after it's cooled a bit.

If you were using chromoly or some other high tensile steel, then tig welding with the correct filler wire would be needed.
 
Sorry for the slow response but it looks like Robert covered it. No need for tig using regular steel with a small thickness. A nice wirefeed welder with a good duty cycle is all you need.

I'll be working on the cabinets some more this weekend. I haven't gotten much done as of late but I'll post an updated pic this weekend hopefully.

I've also begun to work on my reef website in my spare time (which seems to be very little unfortunately). Hopefully that will be up in the next few weeks as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7354608#post7354608 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sidewinder770
I've also begun to work on my reef website in my spare time (which seems to be very little unfortunately). Hopefully that will be up in the next few weeks as well.

Site is looking go so far...

Looking forward to seeing it after all of the following pics have been removed :p

underconstruction.gif


I take it your having a few problems with your "Current Conditions" ??

Current Conditions
May 16 2006 23:03:44
Temp : 79.6
pH : 8.40
ORP : 227

When I looked it should have been May 17 2006 06:09:XX
 
:D LOL- ya- It's definately a work in progress. As for the tank conditions- those aren't even my tanks conditions LOL. I just updated it for ya so at least it shows my tank conditions and not someone elses. When all is said and done it should update every minute. Hopefully that will be working correctly soon enough but I'm fumbling my way through it and am relying on the help of an expert at this point since I know just enough about it to be dangerous :D
 
Well, Thanks a ton to RC member dhoch I was able to get the current status link on my website working. He obviously put some time and effort into making this work and I am glad he was willing to share it with me. Now all I need to do is get the rest of the site done :rolleyes: .

Of course the time is still a little off but that's because I use the sunrise/sunset schedule on the ACIII for my lighting but wanted it to come on later in the day so it's 4 hours behind.
 
That is really cool. I wish I could do that with my tank too. I have the AC II though, and it isn't even hooked up to a computer at the moment. Do you have to have the III to do what your site is reporting?

It would be nice to have those readings here on my desktop or in the system tray so that if something is wrong, I'd find out about it sooner.
 
Marc, you can also contact JBNY about that. He was having his parameters from his ACII displayed to his website.
 
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