We have a 44 gallon corner tank that we would like to have a sump for. I have been looking into overflows but I would like to know what ones are the best. (brand). Do you put a pump in the sump just like if you had a reef ready tank? Can you put the thermometer, skimmer and the like in the sump as well as a refugium? Thanks for your help.
Overflow
- Thread starter kcfehring
- Start date
TheMcs
New member
You're better off drilling the tank than using a HOB overflow. That way it's gravity fed and not siphon fed. If/when power goes out, the siphon will break. When power comes back on, the pump empties your sump into the tank and overflows it onto the floor. You not only get a flood but a burnt out pump.
But, I think the corner 44s are tempered all the way around.
Only difference in set up on yours compared to a RR tank is the overflow. Sump is all the same (pump, heater, thermo, skimmer all in sump).
A lot of people like the CPR overflows that require an air pump. Doesn't someone in OKC build nice overflows too?
But, I think the corner 44s are tempered all the way around.
Only difference in set up on yours compared to a RR tank is the overflow. Sump is all the same (pump, heater, thermo, skimmer all in sump).
A lot of people like the CPR overflows that require an air pump. Doesn't someone in OKC build nice overflows too?
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
Nope. The backs are fine. You should know that, Greg. 
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
Both, but for different reasons. HOB will flood your tank when they fail to keep a syphon. Drilled tanks will flood when something clogs the drain pipe. Things like large snails. You can guess that the latter doesn't happen nearly as often as the fore mentioned. Of course, the HOB are quite dependent on power outages. With whatever you choose, there are many little tweaks you can do to help make it as automated and fool proof as possible. With that said, the drilled tank is a little more hassle at first, but well worth it in the long run.
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
What do you mean by best "design"? Like what is the easiest way to drill a tank? FWIW, if you were to empty the tank, I'll be more than happy to drill it for you. On the other hand, I don't touch tanks that are full. I've seen a few people success in the DIY Forum on drilling tanks that are full, but I wouldn't want the risk and danger associated with a tank busting. Nothing like glass and water flying at you when it breaks.
I've actually drilled empty tanks before with success, but I'd love to have the moral support! I'm generally extremely unlucky, so drilling a full tank is out of the question. With reguards to the best design I was referring to the placement of the overflow (corner, middle, two etc.).
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
As far as I know, the placement doesn't matter. Having the return push towards where ever the overflow is placed is a huge help. The largest concern would be the overall horizontal length of the overflow. The wider/longer the overflow is, the better. It can skim more of the surface of the water faster. But, you'll have to comprimise in-tank space to accomidate such a large overflow. That is unless you went with a horizontal overflow (AKA Calfo Overflow)
Tek
Mr. Vu
djc1026
New member
I've used an overflow box for almost 2 years now, without a problem. Power has gone out several times and it has never lost the siphon. Unfortunately, I don't know the brand as I bought it used. It looks very similar to a lifereef box. Mine does not use an air pump like the CPRs, and I still haven't had an issue.
I went with an overflow box because I didn't feel like emptying my 75, finding someone to drill it successfully and then returning everything to the tank.
Dave
I went with an overflow box because I didn't feel like emptying my 75, finding someone to drill it successfully and then returning everything to the tank.
Dave
djc1026
New member
That's what I've done, plus my returns are only about 1" under the water, so the break begins to work and by the time the water gets to the return outlets, it's all but stopped anyway.
*edit* Actually the overflow does have a flood potential if the siphon breaks. No water will be draining to the sump and the contents of the sump will be pump to the display. So the design of the overflow and ability to reduce the potential of losing the siphon is a consideration.
Dave
*edit* Actually the overflow does have a flood potential if the siphon breaks. No water will be draining to the sump and the contents of the sump will be pump to the display. So the design of the overflow and ability to reduce the potential of losing the siphon is a consideration.
Dave
jprince58
Premium Member
That works great for a standpipe type of overflow. However, a hole above the waterline of on a "J-type" overflow won't allow it to syphon at all. You want the hole to be just below the normal tank waterline.
One way to ensure you don't overfill your tank from the sump, is to partition off your return pump in an area with just a two or three gallons of water. That area is filled by water overflowing the partition from the main sump chamber. Once the return chamber is empty, it will remain so until the tank overflow starts up again.
jkhudson
New member
You can buy a valve that allows the water to flow one way. I've got them on my returns in case of power failure they don't siphon water down through them.Also if you maintain the right water level you can reduce the risk of flooding so that your tank water level reaches the openings before your sump fils up.
jprince58
Premium Member
Yes, and in the worst possible way...open. I think check valves for an overflow siphon would be a poor idea anyway. They're designed to operate under pressure and I can't say as I've seen an overflow that was under more than gravity pressure. Where you'd be more likely to see them, is on the pressure side of a return pump. Considering their cost, though, I think designing your system to accommodate potential power outages would be a MUCH better idea.
