Padrino's 220 Upgrade

Here are some photos of the drain ready for concrete.
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I finally acquired my closed loop pump from Germany. Now I am just waiting to confirm my return pump arrives and then we can continue with the designs and order this tank already. Here are some pictures,
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Ok Rob....... That's a serious looking pump! Can you tell us a little about it?
 
Its fully adjustable by adjusting the RPM will change the flow rate. The controller allows you to program wave and surges ramping the pump up and down naturally and safely. The integrated bearing flushing provides optimum protection against calcification and, in conjunction with the silicon carbide bearings and special hard metal shaft, ensures low-maintenance operations. The materials used are designed to have a long lifetime and meet the highest requirements and quality standards.

Special Features

Variable speed range (0 - 100%)
Programmable control system (e.g. wave and random modes)
Safety functions (e.g. dry run, temperature, and overcurrent protection)
Soft startup
Bus-enabled interface for peripheral devices
Lockable plug contacts
Low-noise operation
Choice of 3m or 10m cable length
The pump can be used immersed or in a dry position.

Maximum flow rate : 17.000 l/h
Rated flow rate : 14.500 l/h
Discharge flow speed : max. 5,4m/s : nom. 4,6m/s
Delivery height : max. 6,5m
Rated input : 4...200W
Operating voltage : 230V~, 50...60Hz
Ambient temperature : +2°C...+40°C
Maximum operating pressure : 1,2 bar
Maximum immersion depth : 2 Meter
Inlet/outlet connections : 50mm/40mm

Couple things as you see is they are metric connections so ill need to have some type of adapters and its 230V so I will need to run a separate line from my panel upstairs so i can plug this in underneath the tank. However with the length of that cable I could always mount the controller downstairs but then I would not be able to see any adjustments I make within the tank, Also will have to do something about that fused plug. I have 3 options
1. cut off the plug and wire a North American 220V standard plug
2. Order a European 220V receptacle (my friend is going to Pakistan early November so its an easy pickup
3. Wire in regular North American 220V receptacle and find an adapter to go from the euro plug to the NA plug.


Its a serious pump though!
 
I forgot to mention that this pump cost me a fortune, you can probably purchase about 6 serious Reeflo pumps for what I paid for this.

The engineer in me can be anal sometimes
 
Wow.... Sounds like a monster in term of features, and longevity... Trust me, it has EXPENSIVE written all over it... I think I hear Reeflo Dart that I use for my return crying in my tank room..LOL..

I can't wait to hear how this works out for you on your closed loop.. Is the idea to have this as the only means of flow in the tank outside of your return or are you going to supplement the closed loop in some way..
 
Just found a neat video discussing that pump.......... AWESOME! check the power out at like the 5:56 mark... Whoa!

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Just found a neat video discussing that pump.......... AWESOME! check the power out at like the 5:56 mark... Whoa!

Jon,
Thanks for the video. This pump is pretty crazy. One thing i like is it tells you the temp and the current wattage draw on the controller. You know in addition to all those other great features :) I am looking forward to setting this up in the future.
 
Is that the same as being a Leafs fan? ;)

Dave.M

Not sure, I grew up a Redwings fan! However from what I see, most likely.

I finished the keg this evening. I think I'm going to head to Mill Street Brewery for my next keg. Looking forward to this!
Cheers
 
My return pump has finally landed on Canadian soil. This pump is is made in the Netherlands and was also a PITA to obtain, especially in a 110V application. :) This is also a true sine wave pump meaning I can ramp the pump up and down similar to the abyzz pump. It also has 0-10V analog signal for remote programming however, this pump will be one that I set and forget being that it will be my return pump. Anyways here are some shots
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Cheers
 
I had a chance to finish the concrete around the drain, I just have to wait till it fully cures before I can start tiling. The drain currently sticks 7/16" above the concrete but between the uncoupling membrane/insulator and the tile, its 5/8" not including thin set. I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to tackle this one yet.
 
Amazing work. I can't imagine what my wife would say if I even mentioned breaking into the slab, let alone doing it.

Let's Go Red Wings! ;)
 
Last night I cut a hole around the drain, dug it out until I could accurately cut the old drain out using a cutting disc on a dremel. Surprisingly that part was simple. The concrete had only been curing for 4 days so it was still a little soft beneath the surface. What took the most time was accurately installing a coupler and new drain to the new height- 7/8" above the floor to bring the drain as close to flush with the tiles (after thinset-ecofoam insulator-thinset-porcelian tile). I also completed the drain in the wall that will be located just above the sump - used for automatic water changes,
 
Go Baby Go! Let's get this puppy up and running! I'm ready to see some waves! :lol:
 
I re-did the concrete around the drain so now I have to wait 28 days before I can start tiling around it. In the mean time, I have lots to do. A local friend is buying my iwaki pump, skimmer and custom sump so I have to at least get my new sump online - connected to my 90 so that I can make this transition properly. I will be ordering metric to imperial unions so that I can adapt to the blue eco pump as a return hopefully tomorrow. I have almost everything else ready to go, This evening I built a skimmer stand to keep the bubble king super marin 250 at a consistent 8" head pressure.

Here is a few shots
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Tonight I finally fixed the auto-drain on the BK SM250 collection cup. The previous owner had a 3/8" tube that was stuck in there surrounded by silicone. Well that's all gone now. I drilled the hole larger and tapped it with a 3/8" NPT tap. Cleaned up the burrs and then used telfon tape to properly install a new 3/8" quick connect elbow. Now it beautifully installed flush with the bottom of the collection cup. :)

I have been thinking alot of how I will do the plumbing for this tank and I am thinking of building a small manifold tree off of the return pump to a pair of GEO media reactors and to the tank as a return line. This will be very similar to how I plumbed my 90 gallon system 2.5 years ago.

I was hoping I would be able to get the exact parts I needed from flexpvc.com to adapt the return pump from the 50mm metric input/output to the 2" standard which utilizes 2.375" OD. So since I cannot source the exact part I will machine one like everything else. :) I plan to utilize sch 80 2" unions hopefully with 1 side slip and the other threaded.. Then I will take a 2" to 1.5" spigot and machine it out to 50mm. This will then be glued into the slip side and then glued onto the pump. This way I should be able to disassemble the pump if ever required easily without having to destroy any plumbing in the process.

Right now, I only have those items listed above that I will feed from my return. Since the sump is in the basement, I don't for see needing to hook up my chiller. When I hook up a frag tank, I will most likely utilize some of the water returning from the main tank and I'd really like to setup a surge system for that.... Future project!! I will most likely install an additional port on the manifold for future changes and additions.
 
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