Padrino's 220 Upgrade

[Padrino]

I sold my tank & stand, custom sump, iwaki pump, plumbing and bubble king mini 160 which made up most of my 90 gallon tank. So I set up my new sump in a temp location with all my livestock and corals. I'll try and post some pictures of the temp setup.

I gave the deposit on my new tank at miracles however i need to finalize some details. Here are my current designs however I am still not positive on the closed loop design.

 

[Padrino]

Those are some fine looking pumps.

So far, I have the Blue Eco setup up to my sump, its silent, doesn't appear to add heat to the water, pushes a massive amount of flow and is just fantastic.
It is a true sine wave pump so you can adjust the RPM to get the flow you want. At 1000RPM it uses 8W and at 1600RPM it uses 21W.

It also has the capability to be controlled externally using 0-10v,
Rob

 

[Sohal Tang Tim]

do it once

do it once

Well your only going to set it up once so why not have the *best* if you can afford it eh Rob! Nice pump! Looks very powerful and totally bullet proof.

If you intend to go DSB then you should go with the higher height.
If you are not going DSB then...the lower height will be fine and you will be
glad when it comes time to reach those items in the bottom of the tank.

Something to consider...

Tim.

 

[Taqpol]

Are you going to have something like an Oceans Motions or other diverter for your closed loop? If so you could probably get a really cool gyre flow going by either running one side or the other, or alternatively switching the direction of the middle closed loop outlets and running the outside two and the opposite middle one as a "bank" and alternating between the two. If I had the option of getting a silent controllable pump like you have I probably would have gone with a closed loop myself!

Are you going to run a fancy drain system with the two overflow holes, or just normal standpipes?

 

[d3hree]

I think I would rotate your CL returns 180 so they point towards the weir. This would help keep detritus in suspension and also ferry it to the weir to get filtered.

 

[ecomdesign]

That pump is amazing! I was able to witness it in action this past weekend. You can't even hear it running. It's unreal how little power it uses as well...

 

[Big_Al]

Looks to me like the current design would work quite well. All CL returns are placed low and should keep detritus in the column. Plus he seems to use the glass well by bouncing the flow of the sides to create some turbulence. Each of the returns are aimed slightly higher than the previous and the last set will bounce a large portion of the flow off the end pane.

The whole design should create an undertow effect that would cause the crud to be brought towards the surface were the current will return it towards the overflow. Pretty well thought out design I think.

I think I would rotate your CL returns 180 so they point towards the weir. This would help keep detritus in suspension and also ferry it to the weir to get filtered.

 

[Padrino]

Looks to me like the current design would work quite well. All CL returns are placed low and should keep detritus in the column. Plus he seems to use the glass well by bouncing the flow of the sides to create some turbulence. Each of the returns are aimed slightly higher than the previous and the last set will bounce a large portion of the flow off the end pane.

The whole design should create an undertow effect that would cause the crud to be brought towards the surface were the current will return it towards the overflow. Pretty well thought out design I think.

Thanks Al, Mike and Alex,
The intention is to couple the abyzz pump (dc brushless) with an OM 4 WAY that I have. I will then have the CL intake on the back pane in between the two drain lines from the overflow box. This will have a few intake ports to reduce the suction within the tank at one particular spot. I will then feed the OM 4WAY and split each output into 2 1" outputs each thus giving me a total of 8 outputs. I have spent some quality time with paul at OM regarding this design.

Since it is a peninsula style tank, your best shot for proper flow is to create a barrel roll effect. I plan on having an open top (no canopy) therefore running plumbing to the opposite end of the overflow box through the eurobrace would not be the prettiest.

I plan to have about 800 or so GPH that goes to the sump downstairs and this can easily be achieved with this blue eco pump. I figure I would bring the return water up to the tank, split the 1.5" return line into 2 1" lines and then into the top of the eurobrace on the either side of the overflow box. I have found from experience that my SPS and other corals grow much faster when place close to the return lines from the sump as apposed to just near flow from a powerhead. Therefore I intend on having the return outputs in the eurobrace point directly to the CL intake.

I suppose one of my questions here for everyone would be, would you put the sump returns in the eurobrace on either side of the overflow box pointed down into the CL intake or would you put it in the back pain on either end of the overflow box? I feel like this would be less of an eye soar but may not be as efficient.

Let me know what you think,
Rob

 

[Padrino]

Are you going to have something like an Oceans Motions or other diverter for your closed loop? If so you could probably get a really cool gyre flow going by either running one side or the other, or alternatively switching the direction of the middle closed loop outlets and running the outside two and the opposite middle one as a "bank" and alternating between the two. If I had the option of getting a silent controllable pump like you have I probably would have gone with a closed loop myself!

Are you going to run a fancy drain system with the two overflow holes, or just normal standpipes?

I plan on using the herbie method, one will be a siphon drain with a ball valve, the other will be just an emergency. Initially I was going to use the bean animal method which uses 3 drains however, your skimmer is only as efficient as your flow though your sump. There is enough research here on RC to prove this therefore I do not understand the need for anything more than 800 GPH through your sump. Anything more and your skimmer will be less efficient. I think a 1.5" emergency drain will be sufficient at my specific turnover rate.
HTH
Rob

 

[Taqpol]

I suppose one of my questions here for everyone would be, would you put the sump returns in the eurobrace on either side of the overflow box pointed down into the CL intake or would you put it in the back pain on either end of the overflow box? I feel like this would be less of an eye soar but may not be as efficient.

Let me know what you think,
Rob

My sump returns are plumbed up and over the tank through the eurobrace. It was much easier that way, and i think it is easier to install siphon breaks so you don't suck as much of your tank water back into the sump. I do think that going through the back wall would be prettier, but since you're going to point the flow down anyways I think going through the top would give you less bends inside the tank.

 

[dayne]

Looks fantastic Rob

 

[joao junior]

This pump is fantastic,where you buy this pump?

 

[Padrino]

Both pumps were imported separately, you cannot purchase these within North American unfortunately.

 

[Padrino]

Looks fantastic Rob

Thanks Dayne,
Its been a while, How are you doing?

I remember long time ago when I came to visit you to see your setup but cant remember how exactly your closed loop was setup and whether or not you were using an Oceans Motion. I'm trying to finalize this tank design as miracles is driving me crazy asking for an updated print.

Anyways, What do you think about the closed loop return placement?

Thanks
Rob

 

[dayne]

pm your # and I will call you

 

[sammy113]

Wow Padrino! This is an amazing build! Love all the planning and the awesome equipment you're getting. Keep it up!

 

[Padrino]

Thanks Sammy! You also have very dedicated talents!

I have made some small tweaks to my design and decided to go with it so i sent the updated print to Miracles and they have started production. I should have it in less than 4 weeks. In the mean time, I'm thinking about stands and how I am going to do this one.

Here is the final design, minus borders and title blocks.

I have a couple ideas I'm bouncing around with:
1. Steel construction faced with plywood and then tile over with a rigid stone work.
2. Steel construction faced with wood design of some sort
3. Complete wood construction.

I have the capability to do each of them, I'm just trying to work out the details of what it will look like and how it will finish with the rest of the rooms.

One thing is for sure, I need to create a false bottom and build two slots in the front so that my cold air return still functions as designed.

 

[dave.m]

Will you be putting eductors on the ends of the CL returns? The difference can be pretty amazing.

Dave.M

 

[Padrino]

Dave,
I have contemplated using eductors, but have not purchased any yet.


Currently I am trying to get in touch with a supplier in Kitchener for sand and rock. If I get in touch with him, I will pick up at least 100lbs or both. I've also had a day or two down in the fishroom and I'll post some pictures of some current progress.
Rob

 

[Padrino]

So I sold my 90 gallon over the Christmas holiday. What I have left in terms of coral and livestock is currently in my sump. Unfortunately I lost a baby capitive bred bright blue Maxima clam. That was a disappointment. I imported that one myself so replacing it will be difficult.

Anyways here are some pics of my temp setup while I continue to build the new system,
Yes that is reading 22W